Dual auto window switches?

[annoyingrob]

More like "Dual auto window switches!"

This thread is in direct response to CRE who said I couldn't do it. I'll show you!

I went to the junkyard today, and picked up a window switch assembly from a 1990 Celica, as well as the relay pack. I then went home, and poured over my TSRM (Yay, I own a real TSRM) looking at the wiring diagrams, and concluded that I didn't need the additional relay pack at all, only the switch assembly.

So, I went out to my car. First step was to take the door apart to get at the switch assembly. You'll note that I'm doing this to my TTR, so everything's backwards.

a few screws, and it's apart.

TSRM shot (the wind blew it over to power locks in the picture)

.


I then discovered that the RHD assembly's wiring was a mirror image of the LHD one. As a proof of concept, I wired in the LHD switch assembly, to see if the auto switch would indeed operate the passenger window. It did.

The next step was to dis-assemble the assemblies:

This is the LHD assembly:

Using my 17 years of soldering experience, I made quick work of removing the board from the assembly

Then, take out the solenoid that holds the switch in position

The RHD assembly was dis-assembled in a similar manner.

I examined both boards, and concluded that they were indeed mirror images of each other. Components were all identical.

Now, time for the real work:

I cut out the switch housing from the LHD assembly

Then, I cut out the RHD housing, and tested the fit with the two auto switch assemblies

You'll notice that the "auto" lettering is on different sides of the switch. I assume this is because the RHD one comes from the factory with auto up and down, while on the LHD one, they want to emphasize the auto down. I will be removing the lettering later on.

Now I see the nay-sayers now. But Rob, that assembly is wider than before, the switches are too far apart, it won't work.

The extra width between the switches is a non-issue. It's right on the outside edge of the trim piece, but it's still there.

Now, I need to make room for the additional width. Out comes my knife, and the door handle is trimmed down slightly

And. the switches in the handle

The next step is to epoxy them together.

That's the extent of what I did today. Tomorrow when the glue dries, I will work on the electronics behind the switches. That's when that engineering degree comes into play


Comments please!

 

[JustinGotA1j]

Wanna do mine to on my TTR. I could probably do it myself but don't have the time or space to even consider doing it. Looks great to BTW can't wait to see the final product.

 

[GrimJack]

I want to do this to both doors. I've been meaning to dig into it forever and a day. Let us know how this turns out.

 

[HommerSimpson]

sounds like you need to colect some extra switches... and start selling them...

 

[mark3monster]

Nice work Grob. I've always wanted to do that but I suck with wiring. Keep us posted.

 

[KeithH]

There is actually a much easier way to get this functionality - and even more.

I have full auto up/down on all three switches. The drivers switch uses the "broken tab" method. I have auto up/down control of the passenger window from both the passenger swith and the drivers switch.

I've been running this for about 6 years now.

EASY installation. Simply give the module a ground and a 12V+... then wire in between the passenger switch and the window motor. DONE!

http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=WC1000

One module took care of both switches for the passenger window.

 

[annoyingrob]

I know you can do that. I've actually been told that AE86 relay assemblies have the functionality built in.

I did it because I wanted the look of the two OEM switches.

 

[tekdeus]

I bought the autoloc unit but have yet to install it. I like the fact that it could tie into my alarm to roll up the windows when armed. I assume I'll need two of them to do this to both windows?

 

[one jay]

i wanted to do this to mine but got to a point taking the thing apart that i didnt have the tools to go any farther with it. cool though

 

[bmoss85]

cool, i like that it keeps an oem look. i would like to do this also.

 

[SupraMario]

I still wanna get a RHD power seat and put it in. 2 power seats FTW.

 

[KeithH]

I bought the autoloc unit but have yet to install it. I like the fact that it could tie into my alarm to roll up the windows when armed. I assume I'll need two of them to do this to both windows?

Yes... you would need one on the driver's window as well.

I'm guessing you are running an aftermarket alarm? I don't think the factory one has the necessary trigger output to roll up the windows.

 

[Guyana00]

Depends what alarm you have. My brother installed a Clifford G5 unit not too long ago and when he arms his car both front windows roll up.

The way he has it set up though is from his drivers side, he can auto up or down the driver or passenger side. But the G5 unit doesn't need auto up capability it rolls any power windows up all the way as well as being able to control them from the remote.

The thing is though, there is a module called smart windows, and each module controls two motors, which is why is rolls up his front windows when he arms it. If he had gotten another, it would do the two back ones as well. And since it's a 4runner, he could have put a module to work for his trunk window/sunroof combo. It's pretty cool, nice alarm overall.

 

[annoyingrob]

The epoxy has dried, and everything still moves freely. The switch doesn't bind against the trim, which I was worried about.

Then I watched some Top Gear, and took a nap, so I didn't actually do any more work today.

 

[annoyingrob]

I had a day off, and got to work on this a little more.

First, if you refer back to this picture:

You'll notice that the slots where the switch pins fit are very close together at the top. So, the pins need to be modified slightly so they fit.

Before:

After:

Now, It's time for the hard stuff. I needed to take the back part of the housing, the one where all the business happens, and modify it.

You'll notice it's quite busy in here. Everything on the left needs to be kept, and everything on the right needs to be cut out. After a bit of work, I ended up with this:

As you can see, I needed to make two small jumpers. You'll notice the two cut-off pins near the connector. These are for the passenger window, which will be attached when I modify the second side to fit with the first. I just need to let a little epoxy dry. Hopefully I'll get to it this afternoon.

 

[annoyingrob]

I cut the back of the other switch assembly, and after a lot of filing down, it fits. Here's a shot of the two solenoids in place.

All that's left is to do some wiring, which I've already started on.

 

[CRE]

Props for the effort involved. I'm anal as hell about doing what I want with certain projects as well. I would personally have gone with the AutoLoc and removed the mechanical auto up and down components for smooth auto action across the board... but everyone' got their own style. I probably would have swapped the buttons too though.

You get credit in my book for not giving up.

 

[annoyingrob]

Thanks. I would finish it up this weekend, but I've pulled my motor to do a bunch of minor repairs here and there

 

[figgie]

go to the junk yard and look for the 98 Cadillac Cateras

full up and down and they are actually digital based