Drove my supra for the 1st time today crappy idle

[crrider80]

Hey guys. I drove my supra for the 1st time tonight (see mods below). As some of you know, I had a bhg right after my rebuild. Well thats fixed but comes along another problem. My idle is really crappy. The car seems like it wants to die out and does at times. Can adjusting my AFPR fix this? I found out the gauge on my AFPR is stuck at 40psi and wont go any lower so i dont know what the base setting is. My timing (12*) and tps are set correctly.
-Steve

 

[s383mmber1]

Before you start adjusting AFPR and other stuff like that, i would make sure EVERY single vacume line is correct.

Check the GROUND on the coilpack to the side of the valve cover as well, as this could cause this....

 

[crrider80]

Before you start adjusting AFPR and other stuff like that, i would make sure EVERY single vacume line is correct.

Check the GROUND on the coilpack to the side of the valve cover as well, as this could cause this....

I thought those were issues too but i checked them and everything is tight
-Steve

 

[GeneStarWindGSW]

Yea bro, check all your vac lines and check to see your not having unmetered air coming in. My 2J was idling horrible and dying from having like 6 vac lines open. Now it idles perfectly at 1k+ rpms =).

#1 check for vac lines and leaks everywhere.

 

[crrider80]

Yea bro, check all your vac lines and check to see your not having unmetered air coming in. My 2J was idling horrible and dying from having like 6 vac lines open. Now it idles perfectly at 1k+ rpms =).

#1 check for vac lines and leaks everywhere.

you mentioned unmetered air... My lex afm has the unmetered screw wide open letting in unmetered air.... will that cause this? should i turn it in?
-Steve

 

[OneJoeZee]

Yea bro, check all your vac lines and check to see your not having unmetered air coming in. My 2J was idling horrible and dying from having like 6 vac lines open. Now it idles perfectly at 1k+ rpms =).

#1 check for vac lines and leaks everywhere.

A 1000RPM+ idle is not perfect. That's pretty far off actually. Unless you have some serious loping cams or trying to prevent clutch chatter.

 

[GeneStarWindGSW]

Well all 2JZ's i've seen idle are about 1000 rpms, but its alot better then what it was idling before Joe. It was idling at about 300 to 700 rpms to the point it would die. After fixing up some of the vacuums it idles just as before when i bought it. Just because it idles a bit higher doesn't mean theres a problem with it.

Crrrider im not 100% if that could be it but u can try to see if it makes a difference or not

 

[mkIIIman089]

I'm pretty sure it does, as Toyota has a spec for where proper idle should be. From what few I have researched its around 7-800 RPM depending on model.

 

[OneJoeZee]

Well all 2JZ's i've seen idle are about 1000 rpms, but its alot better then what it was idling before Joe. It was idling at about 300 to 700 rpms to the point it would die. After fixing up some of the vacuums it idles just as before when i bought it. Just because it idles a bit higher doesn't mean theres a problem with it.

Crrrider im not 100% if that could be it but u can try to see if it makes a difference or not

Just because 'every' 2JZ you've seen had a high idle, that means it's right?

If the engine is idling high, it DOES mean there is a problem. 1000+ is not the correct idle speed.


crrider80: Have you checked your codes yet?

 

[crrider80]

Just because 'every' 2JZ you've seen had a high idle, that means it's right?

If the engine is idling high, it DOES mean there is a problem. 1000+ is not the correct idle speed.


crrider80: Have you checked your codes yet?

Just checked my codes. Jumpered E1 and T (TE1). The CEL just keeps on flashing... no pauses no breaks. Water is pissing out of my resivor tank. Do i suck at building engines or what? ::bhg::

EDIT: i guess the CEL flashing at split second intervals just means i have no codes stored. and mabye my rad cap is bad... im not smoking or anything

 

[IwantMKIII]

you resurfaced for the headgasket as needed correct? Did you bother dumping the oil to check for coolant? Do a boost leak test, it will find your air leaks.

My afpr is set for 40PSI as well but my car is tuned to that, when it was untuned it didn't really make much of a difference at idle.

Your timing should me 10* not 12*

Did you use a quality headgasket?

Your idle sucks but when you step on the pedal does it smooth out? or is it still crappy?

 

[crrider80]

the head was resurfaced i used a felpro HG that i bought off one of the forum members. the car kinda chokes if i step on the gas then it revs freely.
-Steve

 

[IwantMKIII]

have you driven it around at all...is acceleration smooth? or does it bog? and still, check your oil just in case and do a boost leak test, its easy and could potentially really help your problems