driving with a code 52 - a stupid idea?

[nuggets]

I'm getting a code 52 and I've already replaced the wiring harness with one I bought from Shaeff. I've ordered a knock sensor from ebay, but it's gonna take a week to get here. Which leads me to my question:

How dangerous is it to drive with the code? I know that my ECU will retard timing and I'll probably run rich. I'm looking at driving approx 220 miles later this week (all highway). Provided I don't WOT it and take it easy, do you think I'm risking damaging my engine? Other than the code, my engine is running well.

 

[jdub]

Did you clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse for 30 sec after you rewired it?

It's not going to hurt it driving it.

 

[nuggets]

Did you clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse for 30 sec after you rewired it?

It's not going to hurt it driving it.

Yeah I did, two different times. Both times I left the fuse out for a good 60 seconds. When I start driving the car, the check engine light doesn't illuminate until I hit 2500-3000 RPMS, then boom it lights up and stays lit until I turn the car off. Always code 52.

I didn't get the code until I replaced my starter. I wonder if I hit a knock sensor just right and damaged one. Either that or it's just freaky timing that one went bad after I replaced the starter.

That's good news about driving it. Thanks jdub!

 

[Poodles]

Not grounded right is my bet...

Anyway, even with the code it will run, but you're gonna be down on power and have crappy gas milage...

 

[nuggets]

Not grounded right is my bet...

Anyway, even with the code it will run, but you're gonna be down on power and have crappy gas milage...

I installed the new harness per Shaeff's directions, but I'll check the grounding again.

 

[mkiii222]

Could have cracked the rear KS as it sits between the starter and the block.

My rear KS was cracked in 2 when I finally figured it out (after 3 rewires).

 

[shaeff]

Chances are that the rear KS was damaged on removal of the starter. If for some reason, the harness has failed, shoot me a PM and I'll take care of it all for you free of charge.

You can test the harness simply by connecting a multimeter set to continuity check (beep) to one wire, then to the ground. If it beeps on either signal wire, the harness has failed. Very easy to check.

 

[TomFraser]

I've been driving around with it for about a month / 3000 miles

The rear knock sensor is cracked, I'm getting a replacement this Friday

Looking at the location I'm inclined to have a shop deal with it out of shear laziness, but they will take a look and charge some $$$ so i'll be doing it myself

any tips on getting at it without removal of the starter / intake?

 

[xms]

I've been driving around with it for about a month / 3000 miles

The rear knock sensor is cracked, I'm getting a replacement this Friday

Looking at the location I'm inclined to have a shop deal with it out of shear laziness, but they will take a look and charge some $$$ so i'll be doing it myself

any tips on getting at it without removal of the starter / intake?

I would just take the starter out that how i did

 

[TomFraser]

are turbo knock sensors the same as N/A?

 

[7M-KDL]

Not grounded right is my bet...

Anyway, even with the code it will run, but you're gonna be down on power and have crappy gas milage...

i believe the down on power side but im not so sure about the gas mileage part...unless you guys are getting a lot higher than me. i get between 21 and 22 mpg around town and about 26-27 on the highway..is that bad? (its a major improvement over the mileage on my last vehicle)

 

[Poodles]

When I had a code 52 (asshole shop BROKE my knock sensor off) I got like 200 miles to a tank...

 

[7M-KDL]

yeh i have a code 52 and still get like 320 miles to the tank...maybe im just lucky(ish)..if i was real lucky i wouldnt have the code in the first place

 

[Poodles]

Or you drive like a grandma :rofl:

I've knocked down 25MPG on the highway with cruise control, but around town, hellllllll no.

 

[7M-KDL]

actually i kinda do sometimes lol. i only get like 21-22 city and thats if im not on it. if i reset my economy thing then take off from a light i only get 8-9 mpg

edit: im trying to take it easy on my motor for the most part until i can get a mhg and arps, and hoses.

 

[nuggets]

Chances are that the rear KS was damaged on removal of the starter. If for some reason, the harness has failed, shoot me a PM and I'll take care of it all for you free of charge.

You can test the harness simply by connecting a multimeter set to continuity check (beep) to one wire, then to the ground. If it beeps on either signal wire, the harness has failed. Very easy to check.

Yeah, if I was a betting man, I'd say that's what happened (damaged rear KS). I have a new (well, used) KS on the way, so I'll swap out the rear one first and see what happens. I'll do a continuity check on the new wire harness tomorrow.

 

[TomFraser]

are N/A knock sensors the same as turbo?

I ask because my rear is also damaged and I have a spare knock sensor off my 7mge engine

 

[Gunnar]

yes they are

 

[Zer0DeGreeZ]

Not grounded right is my bet...

Anyway, even with the code it will run, but you're gonna be down on power and have crappy gas milage...

I will vouch for this as i' have my lil DD supra been running for six months without a good knock sensor, but i only drive 5 miles to works. i gather it's running about 8-11 MPG this way, or so it seems atleast, lol.

 

[enjoi.this]

code 52 Deffinitly brings you down on power and fuel economy. Im getting about the same milage as poodles does right now. Stongly believe its the wiring so knock sensor re-wire tommorow.

Whats a good way to tell if a ks is pooched or not, just by general appearance?