drive train shudders

[Bri7man]

Ever since the age of man my car has been a bitch in first and reverse. Forcing me to feather the clutch to reduce the hopping around/chattering of whatever is underneath me. Even engaging the clutch ever so slightly at a good speed there is a slight shudder.

Car has 180k on it, right when I bought it I put in a F1 stage 3 clutch and light fly setup,refreshed engine then redline mt90 a couple months to follow, been through 2 redline mt90 changes since.

I have put about 600 miles on the car since I bought it last April, 87 miles so far on the new build.

While it was out I sighted along the drive shaft and took it to a drive shaft shop, we both concluded that it was in phase.

I bought a new carrier bearing, clutch hub washers, greased and installed per tsrm. Aligned the carrier bearing as straight as can be along with the clutch and that made absolutely no difference.

Nothing. Zinch. No improvement.


So I thought.. maybe I fucked my clutch up by driving it too hard after I got it.. or maybe this is just how a stage 3 clutch light fly setup is?

Regardless something is chattering about and bouncing around wayy too much in first and reverse and I'm wondering what the game plan should be this weekend to tackle this ongoing pita.

 

[IwantMKIII]

Its a six puck disk....what do you expect? You using an aftermarket PP too? If it's an inconsistent 'catch point' you may be bleeding from your master/slave.

 

[Bri7man]

Naw it's at the same 'catch point', clutch is bled.

It looks like it's the stock PP painted and heat treated or something.

 

[hvyman]

Looks like a stock pp. 6 pucks are supposed to be like on/off type of clutches with upgraded pp's. They suck with a stock pp, i used to have one.

 

[Bri7man]

Ohh okay, so all I need is an upgraded pp?

 

[gaboonviper85]

No what he's saying is that you are using a performance 6 pick clutch.....no matter what you're gonna get shutters!

 

[Bri7man]

Well if that's okay then no harm no foul.

 

[speedgilligan]

just give it more revs when you take off, that should get rid of most judders in first, im on stock pp and 6 puck and if i rev to about 2500 then slowly let out i can get by with little to no judder

 

[Bri7man]

just give it more revs when you take off, that should get rid of most judders in first, im on stock pp and 6 puck and if i rev to about 2500 then slowly let out i can get by with little to no judder

Exactly that's what I've been doing. Getting used to it.

 

[bountykilla0118]

Looks like a stock pp. 6 pucks are supposed to be like on/off type of clutches with upgraded pp's. They suck with a stock pp, i used to have one.

They suck?? Lol strong words man .... I have been pushing over 400rwhp on a stock PP and a 6 puck for 2 years. I can balance my clutch on hill and I dont have to rev high to get a smooth start off. However most of the time I do, because I drive hard 24/7 I can let off the clutch slowly until it grabs a little and I feather the clutch and she moves off almost like stock. What I like the most is that I can get a 6 puck disk made for $100 and I get my flywheel resurfaced for $20. Tell me what setup on the market can support 400+rwhp for $120?

My advice, you need to practice, they are different ways modulate the clutch and throttle..... More clutch and less throttle? More throttle and less clutch? Learn what works with you and your car. No two cars are the same even with identical setups.

Is it the best setup?.... Hell no ..... Does it work well and cost me $120? .... Hell yes. So how does this setup suck?

 

[enjoi.this]

6 pucks clutch's have great performance for the price but when I want to be lazy in light to light city driving it gets to be a little annoying. I found more throttle and less clutch works well to avoid the jutters but reverse still does it every now and then. Also the OP says there isnt even 100 miles on the new clutch/set up which means it isnt even seated yet. Run the clutch for 500 miles then start doing hard pulls on it, burnouts or what ever please. After running the clutch hard it wont seem so sticky when taking off.

 

[IwantMKIII]

Well if that's okay then no harm no foul.

Like i said, its a 6-puck. Its expected. You think you have problems now? Try handling it with an RPS 3200lb PP.......I laugh at people who think they can drive my car 'because they've driven a manual before'

 

[Bri7man]

They suck?? Lol strong words man .... I have been pushing over 400rwhp on a stock PP and a 6 puck for 2 years. I can balance my clutch on hill and I dont have to rev high to get a smooth start off. However most of the time I do, because I drive hard 24/7 I can let off the clutch slowly until it grabs a little and I feather the clutch and she moves off almost like stock. What I like the most is that I can get a 6 puck disk made for $100 and I get my flywheel resurfaced for $20. Tell me what setup on the market can support 400+rwhp for $120?

My advice, you need to practice, they are different ways modulate the clutch and throttle..... More clutch and less throttle? More throttle and less clutch? Learn what works with you and your car. No two cars are the same even with identical setups.

Is it the best setup?.... Hell no ..... Does it work well and cost me $120? .... Hell yes. So how does this setup suck?

Revving up to 2000-2500 works the best, basically no shudder.

6 pucks clutch's have great performance for the price but when I want to be lazy in light to light city driving it gets to be a little annoying. I found more throttle and less clutch works well to avoid the jutters but reverse still does it every now and then. Also the OP says there isnt even 100 miles on the new clutch/set up which means it isnt even seated yet. Run the clutch for 500 miles then start doing hard pulls on it, burnouts or what ever please. After running the clutch hard it wont seem so sticky when taking off.

Clutch setup probably has +- 500 miles on it, I did extremely hard pulls and burnouts right after I put it in. I didn't know any better and thought you had to break them in hard.

The pics in my first post are at the +- 500 mile mark. I meant the rebuild on the engine doesn't have 100miles yet. I've been told they look to be in great shape tho. What do you think?

 

[89supra7mgte]

I have the same issue with my stock clutch, shudders when taking off in first only, not too noticeable in reverse. What can be the cause on stock setup? First i found bad carrier (250 bones ), had a one piece built balanced installed, got better but still there. I checked and re bled the slave, as precation and nothing changed. I have yet to pull trans, gonna get a better clutch first, are there any common problems, such as input bearing, pilot bearing or throwout bearing that can cause issues? BTW it is an r154

 

[bountykilla0118]

I have the same issue with my stock clutch, shudders when taking off in first only, not too noticeable in reverse. What can be the cause on stock setup? First i found bad carrier (250 bones ), had a one piece built balanced installed, got better but still there. I checked and re bled the slave, as precation and nothing changed. I have yet to pull trans, gonna get a better clutch first, are there any common problems, such as input bearing, pilot bearing or throwout bearing that can cause issues? BTW it is an r154

Check the tranny mounts ..... its one big piece but it breaks down to a few parts make sure the rubber pieces are still in tact and everything is tight.

 

[lewis15498]

worn out ujoints can also make the shuddering alot worse.

 

[89supra7mgte]

i have all new u joints. so i will check the mount this weekend.