Driftmotion Dave's Turbo 4runner build.

[DLM]

Thanks for all the kind words guys.

tturnpaw-Thanks for the pics. I owe you big time. The one thing that has really upset me about this build is I forgot to get any pics of the freshly done stock configuration before I started upgrading things. Your engine pic was is like a godsend.

suprahero-You obviously don't know me that well. I would never EVER have a 7m in anything I own. YUCK! :nono::icon_razz

Well I guess I should add some more here. Sorry it takes me so long but we have been pretty busy at the shop lately. I had heard about the CT26 upgrade and figured I would give it a try since I have access to a few.

I was able to transfer the coolant and oil pipes over to the CT26 from the CT20. I had to bend one water line slighty to clear the wastegate actuator rod, and reclock the center section. I disassembled the turbo to clean it and mocked it so that the oil drain pipe was vertical when installed on the engine. Once I got that marked I used the locating pins on the housings to calculate the angle that the center had been reclocked relative to the exhaust housing and made the intake housing match so basically all that moved was the center section. Here is the modded CT26 next to the big bad CT20.

Here are the turbos from the exhaust side.

And from the top. This shot shows how the CT26 mounting holes had to be elongated to fit the stock manifold.

I made some mods to the manifold as well. Here you can see how I opened up the exit to match the CT26.

If you look at the two runners on the far left side of this pic you will see how blocked they are from the casting around the bolt hole between them. I smoothed this out as well on the manifold on the left.

And here is the EGT probe for my Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband sensor.

So here she is mounted up.

From the front.

And from the back.

Here is the completed setup ready to go in. The original heat sheilds had to be bent, cut, and generally worked over to fit. The coolant pipe had to be throughly massaged to fit but after coming on and off a hundred times it finally clears everything. I also fabbed up a brace that runs to the exhaust housing using the original Supra brace.

I will leave you tonight with myself in the truck making the last minute preparations to the engine bay.

 

[Element256]

1. ^^^Who's that Aryan Nation mutha fucka on the left ?
2. Where the fuck is this garage and why haven't I been invited into it yet ?
3. Guess who's gonna watch Forest get his ass handed to him live in Vegas ?!?!?!?
4. Guess who's gonna TIVO it so I can actually see what happned ?
5. Guess who's gonna get to drive the almighty O2M R32 the weekend of the 12'th ?

 

[DLM]

^^^
1. Remember how your butt was sore after the last fightnight. YES, THAT'S HIM.
2. My old garage in Utah and your welcome anytime if you take me with you.
3. you
4. me
5. CRX?

Ok anyway I left off with everything ready to go in so here it goes.

And here it is in. You may also notice in this pic that I trimmed my inner fenders way up. I did this a while ago and it is the smartest thing I have done. The truck is so much easier to work on now.

All coolant lines were replaced with new Toyota stuff. I decided to run the 440cc injectors from a mark 3 Supra. They fit perfect except for the plug. All of my old plugs were pretty much trash anyway so I wired in the Supra plugs. They are the much easier to use clip type instead of wire spring type like the originals. Here is the Supra injector on the left after they were cleaned and matched and the original on the right.

And here they are in the manifold, sorry for the crappy pic.

So for level one of this build I kind of wanted to stay pretty stock and try to build as just the turbo swap. I was able to reuse almost all the intake setup but to adapt the stock acordian pipe to the CT26 I welded a exhaust reducer from autozone to the original metal elbow bringing it down to 2 inch.

I then used the extra rubber throttle body elbow from my turbo truck to mate my homemade adapter to the mouth of the CT26. This the best pic I have of it in place.

So next time I will get more into the crossover pipe, downpipe, and finishing touches. Thanks for reading.

 

[c_ronius]

Beautiful truck... Nice work!

 

[suprahero]

DD, it looks like you accidentally sat on a dipstick in this pic............:biglaugh:

That trucks going to be badass when you get through with it.

 

[DLM]

So believe or not I am actually updating this thing. One thing I forgot to talk about is the downpipe. I made one using some 3" bends from my buddies stock dodge diesel exhaust, a run of the mill 3" 2 bolt flange, a stamped CT26 flange, and my pos flux core welder. It is ugly but fits perfect and flows well from what I can guess.

I also welded in the wideband bung. I used a reducer to mate the downpipe to the 2.5" cat and exhaust that was already on the truck as a temporary setup. As you can see in a previously posted pic I was able to fit all the stock heat sheilds back on but it took some serious cutting, bending, and drilling of the sheilds.

Every thing was cleaned and refinished before going back in. All hoses were replaced with new factory parts. So here it is in all it's glory.

Now for the electronics. I installed a zietonix ZT-2, which allows you to datalog wideband O2, throttle position, rpm, exhaust temp, and manifold pressure on a laptop. It is one of the better setups for the money so now we sell them at driftmotion.com. I had also planned on running an Apex-i AFC Neo to compensate for the big injectors but couldn't get it to work in the truck. After some trouble shooting I discovered that it is only capable of controlling a 0-5 volt sensor and the 22rte air meter operates on what appears to be about a 2-8 volt scale. That was a bummer but I discovered that I could get it to run just by tweaking the afm spring tension. I am referring to the geared dial under the black cover of the air flow meter that holds the spring tension on the flapper valve. The problem faced is that it is a middle ground compromise. If you run the spring loose like stock it idles great but goes pig rich under boost because of the big injectors. If you tighten the hell out of the spring to make it run right under boost it holds the flapper so closed at idle that it stalls the engine out. So the best you can do is run it in the middle somewhere but then you have a crappy idle and still too rich under boost. Either way I have run it like this for a while and it runs decently overall.

So how does it feel? Well it feels a little stronger all over. Is it faster? Yes. Is it considerably faster? No. It seems to pull a little better both off and on boost. It also seems to spool about the same as stock. Like I said from the beginning the goal was to try and build it as close to stock as possible but with the CT26. That is done so now we will see what this setup is really capable of. If you know me outside of this thread you already know that the truck setup has been considerably changed from where it is in the thread. So stay tuned and I will outline all the recent mods and effects since the original build was completed. I will try to update a little more frequently in the future as well.

 

[tbcmorris]

not bad for flux core

 

[tissimo]

Nice! Interested in selling that extra 22ret manifold?

The Early 22re heads were open design like the turbo heads fyi (pre 85 iirc).

 

[DLM]

not bad for flux core

Thanks.

 

[DLM]

Nice! Interested in selling that extra 22ret manifold?

The Early 22re heads were open design like the turbo heads fyi (pre 85 iirc).

I could sell the manifold but it has a bad crack and it is still in Utah so I won't be able to get it for about a month.

I wanted a regular 22re head because the stock comp ratio on a turbo motor is 7.4:1 which is just ridiculous. The compression bump was probably the best mod I made to the build and it doesn't detonate at 10psi on pump gas.

 

[WhtMa71]

Nice! Thats an awesome project. Has it been off road yet with the ct26?