^Correct, so you should not need the SAFC except for fine tuning if at all..........take that out of the equation for now. You also have codes providing definitive issues. Fix the known things first as others have said.
DREADED CODE 41. Wont go away. First startup issues too.
- Thread starter aheroicrevolt
- Start date
Unless your throttle body and FMIC have a leak, they will not make any difference here. Stop focusing on it. You have all the advice you need to get to the bottom of this.
There is no fueling issue with the 1UZFE (Lexus) meter with the correct 550s. The only problems were preexisting or installation errors.
I will get the code 22 fixed up, but unfortunately I can't go back to 440's.
I cut the 440 connectors and soldered the new 550 pigtails on :-/ sold the 440 injectors too.
andddd sold the stock manifold...anddddd the stock throttlebody.
**sigh**
I cut the 440 connectors and soldered the new 550 pigtails on :-/ sold the 440 injectors too.
andddd sold the stock manifold...anddddd the stock throttlebody.
**sigh**
Maybe Thats my issue!? no, I am using the Lexus housing with the 7MGTE meter.atmperformance;2051565 said:
I was told the lexus housing was all I needed!?
Appreciate it sir! I'm sorry I cant switch back to the 440's. 
Whoever's suggestion gets this car running gets $100 in his paypal. I aint playin.
I am changing the sparkplugs right now because they were blackface. And I am also checking into the SAFC reset problem while cranking.
Whoever's suggestion gets this car running gets $100 in his paypal. I aint playin.
I am changing the sparkplugs right now because they were blackface. And I am also checking into the SAFC reset problem while cranking.
Your fine with the 550s & Lex AFM, they are proportional to the 440s and stock AFM-------------Leave this alone, DO THE FOLLOWING
1. Changing or cleaning plugs is fine, make sure they are gap'ed to tsrm spec
3. Fix code 22 -- get that sensor hooked back up
2. I would unhook the SAFC -- The car will run fine without it.
3. Report back
you keep jumping to conclusions and coming up with things to fix that no one is suggesting.
1. Changing or cleaning plugs is fine, make sure they are gap'ed to tsrm spec
3. Fix code 22 -- get that sensor hooked back up
2. I would unhook the SAFC -- The car will run fine without it.
3. Report back
you keep jumping to conclusions and coming up with things to fix that no one is suggesting.
Sorry guys I have been very busy lately. Havent had time to mess around with the car. I'll let you know what I find. I did order a new coolant sensor and pigtail however.
Anyone hear of Euro Hanger? Biggest European car meet in the great lakes region! Its going on this weekend and have been a little focused on that.:naughty:
Anyone hear of Euro Hanger? Biggest European car meet in the great lakes region! Its going on this weekend and have been a little focused on that.:naughty:
I had code 22 turned out the ecu coolant sensor was good it was the connector that was not making contact with the sensor. Ordered a new one from Driftmotion. The connector uses 070 style hard to find but pepboys sells them. Code 22 from what I exp; my temp took FOREVER to get pass *180, the idle was also effected a bit, and longer them normal start times. The sensor runs a green and brown wire. The brown wire is part of the AFM wiring ....go figure.
The connector is broken right off the wire harness at the ECU Water Temp Sensor. Green and brown wires are just dangling. Thats why I have code 22....and I knew thats why, but dont think that the car not knowing the coolant temp would make the car not start.... Anyway that issue is fixed. I got a new sensor and made my own pigtail. Does it matter what male prong of the sensor the female wire attaches to?
The wires sheered right off the connector, and that part of the harness has just been hanging. The other wires for sensors on the water neck are all broken/brittle as well. The only wires that are connected on that front passenger side of engine are the AFM, The CPS, the O2 sensor and the Cold Start injector (which is eliminated in the intake manifold anyway)
Now i have code 14. Ignition. So somehow in messing around with my wiring, i have caused no spark. I did get some white smoke on the drivers side when I was wiggling around the wires. I think a power wire shorted out on the housing of the silver Igniter box. SO--- I replaced my sparkplugs, I have unplugged and plugged my CPS in and out and wiggled it all around. And I am replacing my EFI relay tonight.
Where is the Ignition Relay? What other relays/fuses are part of the ignition? I think there's a few in the drivers side kick panel yeah?
NAPA sells an Ignition relay for out car, but looking through the Cygnus it never talks about one?
The wires sheered right off the connector, and that part of the harness has just been hanging. The other wires for sensors on the water neck are all broken/brittle as well. The only wires that are connected on that front passenger side of engine are the AFM, The CPS, the O2 sensor and the Cold Start injector (which is eliminated in the intake manifold anyway)
Now i have code 14. Ignition. So somehow in messing around with my wiring, i have caused no spark. I did get some white smoke on the drivers side when I was wiggling around the wires. I think a power wire shorted out on the housing of the silver Igniter box. SO--- I replaced my sparkplugs, I have unplugged and plugged my CPS in and out and wiggled it all around. And I am replacing my EFI relay tonight.
Where is the Ignition Relay? What other relays/fuses are part of the ignition? I think there's a few in the drivers side kick panel yeah?
NAPA sells an Ignition relay for out car, but looking through the Cygnus it never talks about one?
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1) With the wires broken ECU defaults to a hot engine so you don't get starting enrichment.
That makes for difficult starts.
2) Doesn't matter which wire goes where on the coolant sensor. It's a thermistor.
3) Code 14 means the ECU didn't get confirmation of spark so you either have none or have it but the IGf signal isn't getting back to the box.
4) If the MIL illuminates the Main Relay is working.
5) There is no "ignition relay".
6) White smoke is not good. Use a good light and look/smell for burned stuff.
That makes for difficult starts.
2) Doesn't matter which wire goes where on the coolant sensor. It's a thermistor.
3) Code 14 means the ECU didn't get confirmation of spark so you either have none or have it but the IGf signal isn't getting back to the box.
4) If the MIL illuminates the Main Relay is working.
5) There is no "ignition relay".
6) White smoke is not good. Use a good light and look/smell for burned stuff.