Drag radials or slicks?
- Thread starter suprahero
- Start date
I ran Nitto drag radials for quite some time on the street and strip. They last a little over 10,000 miles on the street, in case you were wondering. :naughty:
I handed many a 03/04 cobra their ass on the street on those tires. The look on their faces as an oldschool supra revs up to 5000 rpm and rockets away from them at the tree or stoplight... absolutely priceless.
I handed many a 03/04 cobra their ass on the street on those tires. The look on their faces as an oldschool supra revs up to 5000 rpm and rockets away from them at the tree or stoplight... absolutely priceless.
Im a bit late to the thread, but in your case, you can use any radial you want. What it will come down to is the life of the tire. MT radial= best hooking, but least life. Nitto 555r's = a ton more life, but wont hook as well. I used to run the 555r's they were Ok with the 5speed (had to do alot of feathering for a 1.9 60'), and with the auto they were useless to me when launching with boost. Considerign the power level youre at, the 555s are a good compromise, and should work well.
As far as breakage is concerned, in my experience, somethign in the DS (most likely a u-joint) woudl break first. 1.57 60' on completely stock rear subframe/torque arms, etc and no failures....
As far as breakage is concerned, in my experience, somethign in the DS (most likely a u-joint) woudl break first. 1.57 60' on completely stock rear subframe/torque arms, etc and no failures....
Haven't heard of a Uni breaking they're fairly stout in our cars! 
(you watch there will be 11ty bazillion posts of broken Uni's now)
(you watch there will be 11ty bazillion posts of broken Uni's now)
Thanks guys..............
Slow66, I'm just trying to get under the 2.50 60'......My car spins so bad right now even feathering it that I refuse to go back to the track without some racing tires. It's useless. I'm hoping to get to around 2.00 60', and lower my 1/8 mile times to 8.00 or their abouts. I won't have them in time to go this saturday night, but next saturday I'm going to go and take my camera. Hopefully we'll get some footage of me spanking a few srt's, and gt's.
IJ, now that you've jinxed us all, I think I can hear my ujoint popping as I type..................:biglaugh:
Slow66, I'm just trying to get under the 2.50 60'......My car spins so bad right now even feathering it that I refuse to go back to the track without some racing tires. It's useless. I'm hoping to get to around 2.00 60', and lower my 1/8 mile times to 8.00 or their abouts. I won't have them in time to go this saturday night, but next saturday I'm going to go and take my camera. Hopefully we'll get some footage of me spanking a few srt's, and gt's.
IJ, now that you've jinxed us all, I think I can hear my ujoint popping as I type..................:biglaugh:
I just revised my public profile to show what mods I have done to my car. I'm hoping to have the fastest supra in Sumiton, Al.
The only other one belongs to my wife, and there's no way I'm making hers faster than mine.................lol
The only other one belongs to my wife, and there's no way I'm making hers faster than mine.................lol
suprahero said:
LOL! Well than it's official!
That's sort of the same deal for me...Now I'm working to be fastest Supra in Shelbyville...and the #1 is a 97 Supra on stock twins...but has a HUGE stall, (Yes, automatic), Carbon fiber driveshaft, FULLY built race-ready transmission and is getting like 1.70 60' on regular street tires...
I'll beat him soon. :icon_evil
you can do a little better on street tires, i had a 2.1 60 foot on street tires.
bfg drag radials next time around for me.
bfg drag radials next time around for me.
MPF Supra:
1992 Toyota Supra Turbo 5spd/ White Package
230hp @ 565ft of Torque.
THAT'ssssssss NICE
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ WTF!!!??!!!!?!!!??!!!!
OMGWTFBBQBHGTorQUE?!!!!
1992 Toyota Supra Turbo 5spd/ White Package
230hp @ 565ft of Torque.
THAT'ssssssss NICE
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ WTF!!!??!!!!?!!!??!!!!
OMGWTFBBQBHGTorQUE?!!!!
automatic the most I dynod was 317 rwhp, 312 torque. I then added a bic ddp, manual transmission, and no boost controller. The first dyno was running 12.5 psi. The dyno where I made 406 was at 18 psi...............lol
Edit: 317 hp= 12.5 psi w/ automatic
....... 406 hp= 18.0 psi w/ manual and bic ddp
Edit: 317 hp= 12.5 psi w/ automatic
....... 406 hp= 18.0 psi w/ manual and bic ddp
Last edited:
I pulled several 1.9's on the Nitto's....just fry the shit out of them in the water box Take what you think "frying the shit out of my nittos" means, and double it. They love heat.
You can pull a 2.0 on a high performance 10" street tire, too...but this is easier and cheaper.
Take what you think "frying the shit out of my nittos" means, and double it. They love heat.You can pull a 2.0 on a high performance 10" street tire, too...but this is easier and cheaper.
as already stated, the better the traction, the better the 60' and the more stuff you're going to break.
MT DRs are the stickiest you can buy....followed by the BFGs....followed by the nittos. personally, i run nitto DRs on the street and BFG DRs @ the strip. running BFG or MT DRs on the street will lead to a VERY short lifespan (3k miles? if that...).
what you break depends on how you launch...and what trans you have. the first thing to go in a stock auto trans'd car is the auto trans- they can't deal w/the load. in a manual trans'd car, it all depends on your launch technique. slipping the clutch will be far kinder to the trans and the rest of the drivetrain/suspension than a clutch drop....but it will also burn up you clutch rather quickly.
the manual transmissions aren't perfect. the W58 has weak gears and the R154 has the thrust washer issue. your best bet is to baby it if you have the W58 and to run a GOOD oil if you have the R154. i personally have over 200 passes on my R154 and have no issues, thanks mostly to redline heavy shockproof and no speed-shifting.
speed-shifting (flat foot shifting, shifting w/o the clutch, etc.) is a bad idea. the transmissions are not up to it. don't do it unless you like to change the transmission.
the rear subframe is something to be concerned with. if the diff mounting bolts/nuts are even the slightest bit loose, the diff will rock around and beat your subframe to a pulp. the '89+ braces help to hold the subframe together, but the best thing to do is weld the heck out of it.
as already stated, the "strut rods" (trailing arms...) are fairly weak and will bend if your car isn't properly aligned, etc. i personally haven't bent one yet.
the clutch pack diff is plenty strong. the torsen, on the other hand, will blow up if you even think of going to the strip.
no concerns with the driveshaft, as IJ said, it's plenty strong as well...
that's just my $5.....take it FWIW, YMMV, etc.
MT DRs are the stickiest you can buy....followed by the BFGs....followed by the nittos. personally, i run nitto DRs on the street and BFG DRs @ the strip. running BFG or MT DRs on the street will lead to a VERY short lifespan (3k miles? if that...).
what you break depends on how you launch...and what trans you have. the first thing to go in a stock auto trans'd car is the auto trans- they can't deal w/the load. in a manual trans'd car, it all depends on your launch technique. slipping the clutch will be far kinder to the trans and the rest of the drivetrain/suspension than a clutch drop....but it will also burn up you clutch rather quickly.
the manual transmissions aren't perfect. the W58 has weak gears and the R154 has the thrust washer issue. your best bet is to baby it if you have the W58 and to run a GOOD oil if you have the R154. i personally have over 200 passes on my R154 and have no issues, thanks mostly to redline heavy shockproof and no speed-shifting.
speed-shifting (flat foot shifting, shifting w/o the clutch, etc.) is a bad idea. the transmissions are not up to it. don't do it unless you like to change the transmission.
the rear subframe is something to be concerned with. if the diff mounting bolts/nuts are even the slightest bit loose, the diff will rock around and beat your subframe to a pulp. the '89+ braces help to hold the subframe together, but the best thing to do is weld the heck out of it.
as already stated, the "strut rods" (trailing arms...) are fairly weak and will bend if your car isn't properly aligned, etc. i personally haven't bent one yet.
the clutch pack diff is plenty strong. the torsen, on the other hand, will blow up if you even think of going to the strip.
no concerns with the driveshaft, as IJ said, it's plenty strong as well...
that's just my $5.....take it FWIW, YMMV, etc.
I got a 1.6 on a street tire and a doughnut, but Ill probably get flamed because I dont know where my time slip is. I launched at 3-3,500 after trying it at 5-6 and spinning for a sec in the hole.
Cya said:
I think you mean a 2.6. I'm going to have to say a 1.6 60ft on street tires isn't going to happen unless they were soaked with vht or something.
I've had great luck with my mt et streets. I have a good amount of passes on them which included heating them up before a run. On the street somewhere over 3k and they still have life left. At the track they are perfect. I can launch it 6k + and they dead hook. I have yet to break anything other than a cracked subframe.