drag racers. step inside

[Boostaddctn]

13.5s with just stock turbo and intake thats pretty awesome, i ran a 14.3@100mph with 13.5-14lbs of boost but it was cold i hit fuel cut every run and my launch was HORRBILE i didnt figure out how to launch good on the track 5k launch? isnt thats pretty high? then again i dont know i usually race on the streets and i've beaten alot of known mid 13 second cars around here but i usually only launch at 2800 on the streets but anyway my 60 time was 2.4 and thats horrible on top of the fuel cut so i know theres alot more in my car, what do you guys usually launch at on the track?

It was about 65- 70 degrees F out, pretty hot for me since I am from the Bay. I was on Nitto 555R's at about 20psi in the rears and launch at 5k cause that seems to be the sweet spot cause it just grabs and no bogging and I am at about 10 - 12psi shimmed with no fuel cut and did a 60' of 2.2, I am sure once I get my launches down better I can pull a 12.9

Why when I dowload these vids there jearky as all hell and jump all over the place?

Are you streaming ? if not, I find using WINAMP works hella better than Windows Media Player for these videos...

aight peace

 

[turboa7mgte]

http://av-performance.com/supra/13.3@105.wmv
I ran a 13.3 at 105 with a ct-26 62-1 last year
Stock exhaust exept Elbow and DP on 225 Sumotumos at 28psi of air pressure
Just slip the clutch a bit and you should be fine.
With my Turbo A head i can shift at 6800rpm but on my old 7m I lost power at about 5800.

 

[DrakeMK3]

Mmmm....6800 shift point on the 7M....

 

[drjonez]

as already said, how you launch/shift/etc. is totally depedant on YOUR car and YOUR mods. example: w/my current setup on DRs i launch on a 5k clutch drop after a 5 sec burnout, back in the stock turbo/street tire days i did a nice 3.5k slip and no burnout.....totally different techniques, totally different mods.

as for the 14.2@110 w/the 2.9 60', you'll need to work on the launch or get real tires. i'm guessing you have some narrowish tires on there, as others have said get some real tires (i.e. DRs, not nittos). you'll probably need to slip the clutch to get a good launch. that said, 2.1 or even a 2.0 should be possible on wider street tires. 1.8 or less on real DRs. there's no point in dropping pressure in street radials or doing a burn out, the tire compound and sidewall construction simply don't benefit from either.

 

[dbsupra90]

you might look into these tires. people have been giving it awesome reviews. they did have a prob with one of the molds but have since been sorted.
these will def be my next tires once the dr's wear out.

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip_et_street_radial.html

 

[silver88turbo]

Forgot that one. Dial in a degree or two of positive camber out back, that way when it squats you'll go zero and have a larger contact patch. Most folks usualy have negative camber running around on the street, so when they launch it just makes the contact patch that much worse.

The sway bar helps keep the axle parallel with the body of the vehicle. Disconnecting them allows the axle free-er movement, aiding in weight transfer to the back.

As far as I understand, on an short/long arm suspension the camber goes positive during jounce (lower control/susp arms are close to parralel with the ground while the upper arm is angled downward so as you push them upwards the upper arm swings outward) so you would want to dial in negative static camber setting. Am I missing something?

 

[malloynx]

thanks for all the tips guys. i'm going back on friday to better my times. i was just have a shitty night. last seson i hit a 13.0@109 with some 245's in the rear. i now have 255's..

when i go back, it's going to be race gas, 275 drag radial and open downpipe.

 

[jbsupra89t]

Thanks for all the info! I'm looking forward to seeing what happens at the track this weekend, but kinda wondering how bad I'll miss shifts with this C's after reading up on it

-J

 

[malloynx]

jb,, where in jersey are you going racing. i'm going to cecil county friday night.

 

[jbsupra89t]

Sadly looks like it's gonna be island dragway, up in Great Meadows Not the best track, but it's 15 minutes away and you can get a ton more runs in than e-town. Plus it's my first time racing so it should be an "interesting" experience... I'll get some vids probably to show off my 16 second times hahahah. Cecil county, whereabouts is that?

-J

 

[drjonez]

As far as I understand, on an short/long arm suspension the camber goes positive during jounce (lower control/susp arms are close to parralel with the ground while the upper arm is angled downward so as you push them upwards the upper arm swings outward) so you would want to dial in negative static camber setting. Am I missing something?

you have it backwards. camber goes neg on squat.

 

[JimR]

..... there's no point in dropping pressure in street radials or doing a burn out, the tire compound and sidewall construction simply don't benefit from either. ......

Just bringing this thread back from last year , dr.J, I have been dropping the pressure on my rear tires (stock) to 20 or 25 psi from 35 to help with traction, even though they are street tires. I run a 1.5 degree negative camber for autox'ing, and this certainly doesn't help for the drag strip!

My thinking is that I want as much flex as possible on the inner wall of my rear tires for launching, and lower pressures should help with this.

Are you arguing that a street radial does not respond properly to the lower pressure?

Jim

 

[chevyeater]

Just bringing this thread back from last year , dr.J, I have been dropping the pressure on my rear tires (stock) to 20 or 25 psi from 35 to help with traction, even though they are street tires. I run a 1.5 degree negative camber for autox'ing, and this certainly doesn't help for the drag strip!

My thinking is that I want as much flex as possible on the inner wall of my rear tires for launching, and lower pressures should help with this.

Are you arguing that a street radial does not respond properly to the lower pressure?

Jim

No, they don't. If you've taken a look at a street radial that has been running around low on air for a while, you'll notice the outer edges of the tread are significantly more worn than the center. The opposite is true for an overinflated street radial.

 

[JimR]

No, they don't. If you've taken a look at a street radial that has been running around low on air for a while, you'll notice the outer edges of the tread are significantly more worn than the center. The opposite is true for an overinflated street radial.

Right, and I think the wear-and-tear in that case is caused by the lateral g's exerted on the tire from turning (assuming no crazy camber angles).

What I'm chiefly interested in is how to get the largest contact patch on a street radial for drag racing, besides changing the camber. I spend most of my time autocrossing so it makes no sense for me to adjust camber for dragging.

 

[Boost_happy]

i pulled a 2.0 60ft on 205 street tires, and ran a 14.2@ 99 @ 10psi withexhaust

 

[itr206]

Id say better tires are in order. I did a 13.2 bogging like hell off the line at a lower trap then yours.
Thats a solid 12.9 run IMO on better tires and the right launch

 

[blackout_89t]

14.02@100.2mph 2.25 60ft. on ct-26 with intake, exhaust and 9psi.

 

[bigal0043]

on stock intake and exhaust and turbo we did a 14.4@99mph with boost turned up to 8 psi or so. we managed to get some real decent 60 fts 2.1 seconds ... the kid doing it for me is a real good driver...