I have a question. Does anyone know if its possible to mod the door panels to fit the 6.5" speaker grills? Or if not a way to mod them to sound less distorted? I ask this cause I just order a set of original (not replica) 91+ speaker pods off eBay to Fit my new JBL's, and they wont be in for at least another week.
Door panel mod?
- Thread starter Maple191
- Start date
You could wrap a piece of MDF wood in some vinyl then screw it onto your door. It would effectively space the speaker more away from the inner workings/windows inside the door.
link please? all i did was use self tapping screws and screwed em on where the magnet cleared. doesnt sound horrible but im sure theres room for improvement...id like pods.
I have them same issue man I have a set of factory 91/92 pods in my 88 so half the door panel covers the speaker what I was planning on doing is finding some shadow grey 91/92 speaker grill covers (they are bigger then the 86.5-90) and cutting my 88 door panel so that I could make the 91/92 grills cover the opening
I think I will need the metal bracket that the grill attaches to thou
This is a pic of what a 91/92 panel looks like with the grill off
I think I will need the metal bracket that the grill attaches to thou
This is a pic of what a 91/92 panel looks like with the grill off
I think you guys miss read my orginal post. As I asked is it possible to Mod. the door panel to fit the 6.5 speaker grill from a 91-92. OR If that is not possible. Can you mod the panel to release some of the sound that would be caught and muffled behind the original door panels.
There is no need to use a larger grille, except cosmetics, and IMO, the '91-'92 grille doesn't look like it was properly designed in. The 4" grille won't block ANY sound from the larger speaker.
You would need to be able to cut metal, and make a new back plane. You would need to replicate all 3 mounting locations, or else there WILL be a sound difference -- the grille buzzing with the speaker vibration. You'll also need to ensure that the backplane is solidly connected to the door panel for the same reason. You'd also need to make it all complete, to keep the door panel from buzzing at the lower edge.
There MIGHT be a slight difference in sound around the area that your ankles and knees reside, at very high (>12kHz) frequencies if it's a coax speaker and the tweeter is recessed enough that the structure blocks line of sight.
I wouldn't mod the door panel, but it's possible to do.
You would need to be able to cut metal, and make a new back plane. You would need to replicate all 3 mounting locations, or else there WILL be a sound difference -- the grille buzzing with the speaker vibration. You'll also need to ensure that the backplane is solidly connected to the door panel for the same reason. You'd also need to make it all complete, to keep the door panel from buzzing at the lower edge.
There MIGHT be a slight difference in sound around the area that your ankles and knees reside, at very high (>12kHz) frequencies if it's a coax speaker and the tweeter is recessed enough that the structure blocks line of sight.
I wouldn't mod the door panel, but it's possible to do.
hvyman;1868832 said:
they don't come in the right color
And yes the 86.5-90 panel blocks about half the driver reducing mid bass clarity ALOT its not that the 4" grill blocks the driver but the actual portion below the 4" grill is about where the middle of the driver is.
And where you you get this data from? I ask because I was unable to measure any distortion with some excellent instrumentation. Comparison was with the door panel completely off, so nothing blocking it at all, and then with the door panel back on, with the 4" grille between the speaker and microphone. Test was done using sine wave sweeps and music programming. (Final results once I had damped a 2.1kHz resonant buzz introduced by my map pockets having some loosened screws.) Tests done at volume levels representing ~70, ~80 and ~100 dBA SPL with pink noise.connor.stephens;1868893 said:
I get this data from my own experience listing to my speakers :icon_bigg as well as spending everyday listing to thousands of dollars worth of audio equipment for my job.
Volume is greatly reduced as well as mid bass was not "distorted" but muffled
My doors are FULLY Dyno-mated with Hertz Hi-Energy HSK-165 components as well as they are being pushed by a five channel Alpine PDX-5 Class D amp running 100 watts RMS to each speaker. By no means does it sound bad but for the money I have put into it I want perfection and the weakest link is the fact that the sound coming from the drivers in my doors is being greatly reduced as well as being alot less direct then if i had 91/92 panels.
Volume is greatly reduced as well as mid bass was not "distorted" but muffled
My doors are FULLY Dyno-mated with Hertz Hi-Energy HSK-165 components as well as they are being pushed by a five channel Alpine PDX-5 Class D amp running 100 watts RMS to each speaker. By no means does it sound bad but for the money I have put into it I want perfection and the weakest link is the fact that the sound coming from the drivers in my doors is being greatly reduced as well as being alot less direct then if i had 91/92 panels.
I've talked to enough people willing to spend stupid amounts of money on "audiophile" wire to trust my ears, that's why I use actual measurements.
Would you guys be willing to post up your hertz part numbers? And advise how the install went.
Also how would the speakers sound if only driven by the head units 20 watts rms?
Thanks in advance for the input?
Also how would the speakers sound if only driven by the head units 20 watts rms?
Thanks in advance for the input?
I have Hertz HSK-165 They are 6.5" woofers with 1" tweeters and two crossovers The install was kinda a B*tch because the magnet on the woofer was so large I had to cut part of the metal out of my door because the magnet would not allow the speaker to sit flush with the 91/92 pod. also had to mount the tweeters in the doors so you have to cut a hole for them as well plus you have to mount the crossover. I wouldn't run any speakers form the Energy or Hi-Energy line with that little amount of power (you wouldn't get your moneys worth) but the Hertz Dieci Line Would sound alright until you started cranking it up loud
If you have a blue interior, then you can swap panels and all hardware and look like OEM (like I did on my 89). If you have any other color then you're screwed, as nothing will match color-wise, even if you swap the speaker covers and rivent in the things you need to hold it in place./