does this mean i have bad turbo?
- Thread starter dtpBrugal
- Start date
jetjock;1466897 said:
I thought Toyota was to send a letter 3 months in advance informing you that they will be revoking headgasket privilages....
I saw this thread when it had zero replies, I started to write a big list of questions, and explanations, and then I X'ed out of the page. If you don't know how to ask for help, you don't deserve it, IMO of course.
Edit: I think our jod is done.
-Mike
Edit: I think our jod is done.
-Mike
dtpBrugal;1466863 said:
Top blue line on every page with words in it. Towards the right.
dtpBrugal;1466871 said:
This is why everyone in here thinks it's BHG.
supisarethebest;1466873 said:
My guess as well. Don't assume that because it was just done, that it was done correctly. 7M's use much tighter tolerances than your average 350 Chevrolet. An average mechanic may or may not have ever worked on a 7M. If the block and head were not properly prepared for the metal gasket, the timing plate wasn't machined with the block, or the proper torque specs and pattern weren't used, it will not seal correctly
dtpBrugal;1466876 said:
Blown Head Gasket - I see you figured that out. It is the single most over used guess, because the 7M is known for having the problem, as I guess you already figured that out. The next most common problem is Rod Knock. It is common for Rod Knock to arrive shortly after a quick BHG job. This is because the BHG is repaired, but all of the coolant in the bottom end took it's toll on the bearings. A quick BHG repair does nothing for this.
gaboonviper85;1466882 said:
So True!
Another MkIII;1466883 said:
Don't assume that the torque spec is what you need. Use the instruction sheet that came with your ARP's, and follow the directions given for the particular lube that you use. You may want to ask your mechanic what he torqued them to, without giving him any hint as to what the answer should be.
dtpBrugal;1466886 said:
This suggests that you have a boost leak. It also gives hint to how good this mechanic is. But, it has nothing to do with white smoke.
jetjock;1466897 said:
JJ is a little brash if you want help, but don't give him anything to go by, or perform the tasks he suggests. If you do those two things, you will not get any better advise.
dtpBrugal;1466900 said:
Take off your oil cap, and turn it upside down. If there is chocolate milk in there, you will need to redo the head gasket.
dtpBrugal;1466902 said:
Make sure that you do your homework first. People throw around that search word constantly. Search is your friend. Learn all that you can before starting anything. All the information you need has been typed here countless times. Sometimes a search gets cluttered by things you don't need, but if you are patient, you can find it. A search for BHG will get you almost every thread on SM. Search will not recognize anything less than a 4 letter word. Use the * to find words shorter than 4 letters (BHG*)
i had my hg done 6 months ago and now i have a thread asking for help over something that i already know the answer to,i have bhgd
hows your fuel? did the boost gauge work before that? do u hear any sound from the turbo like spoolin,take the ai filter off for a short ride and try to spool and get back to us
supisarethebest;1466968 said:
I'm not so sure of the accuracy of this reply, and I request it be disregarded.
:3d_frown:
Things you may (or may not) find with a blown headgasket:
Milky residue/buildup under the oil cap (after long drives, it's normal do have some clouding on a short trip from cold start due to condensation in the crankcase)
Oil swirls in your coolant (check under the rad cap when cold is easiest)
Ugly dirty coolant overflow resevoir
Milkshake oil on the dipstick
Rough run for a few seconds on cold start
White smoke from the exhaust
Coolant at the bottom of the oil pan (crack your drain plug, what comes out first? Coolant will sink to the bottom if it's been sitting for a while)
Coolant "magically" disappears from the system (I'll tell you one thing for sure, it's not magic...)
If you have one or more of those symptoms, it's best to do a hydrocarbon test from the rad (see if exhaust gases are coming up through the rad) and a cylinder leakdown test. That will give you a more definitive answer as to if/where a leak will be in the head or head gasket.
If your turbo is going you'll notice one or more of the following:
Excessive oil consumption (aka, burning oil...look for blue smoke especially while boosting)
Coolant "magically disappears from the system (might have something to do with "magical" white smoke out the tailpipe)
Low boost problems (please please PLEASE rule out a boost leak first...99% of the time it's just a boost leak)
Excessive noise on spool (whining, screeching, etc)
Shaft play (just take off your intake piping in front of the turbo and take a feel, TSRM has specs as to what is acceptable, but tolerances are VERY tight. Chances are if you can notice it moving, you're probably on your way out)
It's not an excessively exhaustive list, there may very well be more symptoms that I've missed, but these are ones that I've noticed/seen first hand and can confirm. Remember that even looking at these symptoms some can be caused by other problems as well. Do your homework, read through the applicable parts of the TSRM and ask (smart) questions where you need to and you'll get it figured out
Milky residue/buildup under the oil cap (after long drives, it's normal do have some clouding on a short trip from cold start due to condensation in the crankcase)
Oil swirls in your coolant (check under the rad cap when cold is easiest)
Ugly dirty coolant overflow resevoir
Milkshake oil on the dipstick
Rough run for a few seconds on cold start
White smoke from the exhaust
Coolant at the bottom of the oil pan (crack your drain plug, what comes out first? Coolant will sink to the bottom if it's been sitting for a while)
Coolant "magically" disappears from the system (I'll tell you one thing for sure, it's not magic...)
If you have one or more of those symptoms, it's best to do a hydrocarbon test from the rad (see if exhaust gases are coming up through the rad) and a cylinder leakdown test. That will give you a more definitive answer as to if/where a leak will be in the head or head gasket.
If your turbo is going you'll notice one or more of the following:
Excessive oil consumption (aka, burning oil...look for blue smoke especially while boosting)
Coolant "magically disappears from the system (might have something to do with "magical" white smoke out the tailpipe)
Low boost problems (please please PLEASE rule out a boost leak first...99% of the time it's just a boost leak)
Excessive noise on spool (whining, screeching, etc)
Shaft play (just take off your intake piping in front of the turbo and take a feel, TSRM has specs as to what is acceptable, but tolerances are VERY tight. Chances are if you can notice it moving, you're probably on your way out)
It's not an excessively exhaustive list, there may very well be more symptoms that I've missed, but these are ones that I've noticed/seen first hand and can confirm. Remember that even looking at these symptoms some can be caused by other problems as well. Do your homework, read through the applicable parts of the TSRM and ask (smart) questions where you need to and you'll get it figured out
radiod;1467247 said:
Helpful post Radiod, but I am wondering how you figure turbo shaft play is at all related to the HG? Im sure if you drove with a bad head gasket that had water in the oil long enough yes the shaft play would increase but I do not think that is a way to check for a bad headgasket or even a helpful step in the process.
Let me know if I am misunderstanding.
supradjza80;1467295 said:
It says it right there in his post. For turbo going out the symptoms are the following. Just not in those words but its in there.
It still hasnt been diagnosed as a bhg.
I don't want to hijack the thread,but after reading ewerything i have a few questions. From the BHG list of simptoms i have waterfall behind the dash and "magicaly" dissapearing coolant. No other simptoms. I can drag race the car as much as i like and she never overheats. Just out of curiousity i stoped looking at the coolant level in the overflow reservuar a few months ago and nothing happened.
So, now to the questions. Corect me if i'm wrong, but if the coolant level in the system is very low, then the temp sensor would not reach the coolant and would measure boiling steam from coolant. If so, then my temp gauge should be on the red line easy, because temp of the steam is much higher. Or am i wrong on this one?
The other question is somewhat related to ewerything above. I start the car, begin driving. After a kilometer or so the heater is blowing warm air. Ewerything is fine. Then it starts to blow cold air all of the sudden. After another kilometer the temp gauge shoots a bit over the middle and drops again. Bingo, the heater is blowing hot air again. After that you can drive as much as you like, it will never repeat that again. This will only happen after the car had stood still for day or so. I understand that i have air trapped in my system. I burped it a few times, but maybe this is not quite related to the air in the system?
Now, i'm not afraid of BHG, but i don't want to tear down the engine for no obvious reason.
So, now to the questions. Corect me if i'm wrong, but if the coolant level in the system is very low, then the temp sensor would not reach the coolant and would measure boiling steam from coolant. If so, then my temp gauge should be on the red line easy, because temp of the steam is much higher. Or am i wrong on this one?
The other question is somewhat related to ewerything above. I start the car, begin driving. After a kilometer or so the heater is blowing warm air. Ewerything is fine. Then it starts to blow cold air all of the sudden. After another kilometer the temp gauge shoots a bit over the middle and drops again. Bingo, the heater is blowing hot air again. After that you can drive as much as you like, it will never repeat that again. This will only happen after the car had stood still for day or so. I understand that i have air trapped in my system. I burped it a few times, but maybe this is not quite related to the air in the system?
Now, i'm not afraid of BHG, but i don't want to tear down the engine for no obvious reason.
Enjoyer, if you've burped your coolant system properly (and thoroughly) you won't get any more waterfall noises. You could have a small leak that's pooling somewhere or evaporating before you can notice it dripping or something. But having air entering the cooling system means that it has to be coming from somewhere. Whether that be a loose line or a line that's got a small split or starting to go or a BHG I don't know. Any sort of coolant leak is important to keep an eye out for and fix as soon as you can find it, especially on motors geared more towards performance. The temperature spikes you've seen is due to some airlocking, which is another problem that would be taken care of by fixing any sort of leak and bleeding the cooling system.
If you want to look for a coolant leak, I know most coolants are UV reactant, so they're light up like crazy if you use a black/UV light to look around for them. Don't know if the Toyota red coolant works the same though. There are adatives that you could use to MAKE them UV reactant, but I don't know where they would rate in terms of "safe to use" at all.
If you want to look for a coolant leak, I know most coolants are UV reactant, so they're light up like crazy if you use a black/UV light to look around for them. Don't know if the Toyota red coolant works the same though. There are adatives that you could use to MAKE them UV reactant, but I don't know where they would rate in terms of "safe to use" at all.
radiod;1467967 said:
I've thought about a coolant leak or a cracked hose, but i never found any traces of leaking coolant. I'll have to try to search one more time. One more thing. Is it possible that the coolant is leaking somewhere only under presure(driving) and stops at idle?
Possible but not typical. More likely what would happen is leaking when at operating temps (under pressure...ie, bad rad cap). As long as the system is warm, it will keep the system pressurized. Otherwise you wouldn't have to worry about coolant blowing up in your face while taking the rad cap off a warm car . Don't just look for wetness either. If it's evaporating right aways it will leave behind a sort of dried up almost powder where the leak was. I had some leaking by my union at the rear of my head where it was just a clamp that wasn't tight enough anymore, but it was evaporating instantly when the engine was warm. Replaced the clamp and I was good to go again, but the only way I noticed it was a tiny bit of steam when I inspected the engine after getting it nice and warm and that almost powdery residue left over.
. Don't just look for wetness either. If it's evaporating right aways it will leave behind a sort of dried up almost powder where the leak was. I had some leaking by my union at the rear of my head where it was just a clamp that wasn't tight enough anymore, but it was evaporating instantly when the engine was warm. Replaced the clamp and I was good to go again, but the only way I noticed it was a tiny bit of steam when I inspected the engine after getting it nice and warm and that almost powdery residue left over.
radiod;1468061 said:Possible but not typical. More likely what would happen is leaking when at operating temps (under pressure...ie, bad rad cap). As long as the system is warm, it will keep the system pressurized. Otherwise you wouldn't have to worry about coolant blowing up in your face while taking the rad cap off a warm car
I understand that and searched for it also, but i haven't noticed any residue leftovers. Rad cap is already replaced long ago just after i noticed these problems. The hose at the back of the head was in my mind, but you can't reach it to inspect it if it's cracked or loose. You noticed a tiny steam. That's a hint. I'll try that too. It sucks that i lost my job in the truck workshop. Now i don't have a convenient place to do all the inspections once again.
I wasn't saying those were necessarily the issues you have, but just examples of what to look for. Here's a picture of the cooling system and everywhere it goes.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CO&P=1
Take a look over it, expecially at hose connectors/junctions, and you'll eventually find it. You just gotta be thorough. Tape some white paper to cardboard and put it under your engine and leave it overnight. If you've got any leaks dripping, you'll definitely see it, know what fluid it is, and it will give you a better idea on where you can look.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CO&P=1
Take a look over it, expecially at hose connectors/junctions, and you'll eventually find it. You just gotta be thorough. Tape some white paper to cardboard and put it under your engine and leave it overnight. If you've got any leaks dripping, you'll definitely see it, know what fluid it is, and it will give you a better idea on where you can look.
Thanks for all the tips. I'll have to go through all the hoses once again. Maybe this time i'll find something. If not... Oh well, 1uz project will start early