Does painting IC reduce efficieny?
- Thread starter Sawbladz
- Start date
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Supramania Contributor
Techlinecoatings.com has FAQ pages, and they offer "consumer" products you can apply in your garage. (That is where I applied most of mine.)
I have a HVLP touch up gun from Harbor Freight. I also have a airbrush from Harbor Freight too. (Both are copies of quality HVLP and airbrush designs that would be hundreds more if you buy the name brand's they are copied from.)
I also have a quality air filter/respirator that I wear when I'm painting. If I had the money, I'd buy a fresh air system, but this "gas mask" works just fine. The filters are particulate type and they work well. You can not smell the fumes when painting, and when you take off the mask, it suddenly hits you! It is nice to know the filters are working. I keep my mask in a paint can sealed up when I'm not using it. (A sealed zip lock bad works too.) The idea is the filters are "activated" and they will lose effectiveness when exposed to oxygen in the air for a long time. It's something I've been doing since I learned how to paint way back in 1985.
Use the small HVLP touch up gun when painting larger parts, and the air brush when you need smaller parts, and more detail and precision applying the coatings. (Like on pistons or valves.)
Key here is sandblasting the parts and cleaning them up when your done. Oil and dirt cause the coatings to fail, so you have to clean them up very well. You also have to keep your hands clean, and wear nitrile gloves when handling the parts to keep the oil from your hands off the parts too.
The silver is unpolished ceramichrome coatings from Techline. They really need to be polished to complete the process. (When that is done, they look like chrome plate, but it's very durable, and controls heat very well.)
I would have to say, for the first time coater, the Turbo X is a better product with few problems, even if your coatings go on less than perfect. The "gray" color is actually calcium from the engine being washed... when coated, the parts are a satin black color that's very nice looking. Just be very careful when washing parts at the car wash. They turned gray instantly, and it was a reall PITA to try and clean this stuff off. (The calcium deposits that is.) The Turbo X never failed or flaked or anything. Infact, I had to bend and smash down a turbo support bracket coated with turbo X, and figured when I hit it with my 8lb drilling hammer, it would flake off.. Nope, the pipe deformed, and crushed where I wanted it to, and the coating did not come off at all. It did transfer some of the coating to the hammer face, and point end that I was using, and that coating transfer is still on the hammer today. The part did not rust where it was smashed down, and the coating handled the abuse with flying colors!
Any rust you see is from gaskets or fasteners that have rusted or corroded next to or on the coatings over the cast iron hot side of the turbo.
(My current Masterpower T70 has the CHRA coated with a custom color made up of Turbo X and ceramichrome. (I was low on both, so combined them to see how it would work, and I really like the glossy gray color it ended up. Think dark Ti color, and your there.) So far, it has held up great!
I coated my modified Ebay manifold, the hot side and other parts again. Some are the "gray" and some are pure black turbo X.
I have a HVLP touch up gun from Harbor Freight. I also have a airbrush from Harbor Freight too. (Both are copies of quality HVLP and airbrush designs that would be hundreds more if you buy the name brand's they are copied from.)
I also have a quality air filter/respirator that I wear when I'm painting. If I had the money, I'd buy a fresh air system, but this "gas mask" works just fine. The filters are particulate type and they work well. You can not smell the fumes when painting, and when you take off the mask, it suddenly hits you! It is nice to know the filters are working. I keep my mask in a paint can sealed up when I'm not using it. (A sealed zip lock bad works too.) The idea is the filters are "activated" and they will lose effectiveness when exposed to oxygen in the air for a long time. It's something I've been doing since I learned how to paint way back in 1985.
Use the small HVLP touch up gun when painting larger parts, and the air brush when you need smaller parts, and more detail and precision applying the coatings. (Like on pistons or valves.)
Key here is sandblasting the parts and cleaning them up when your done. Oil and dirt cause the coatings to fail, so you have to clean them up very well. You also have to keep your hands clean, and wear nitrile gloves when handling the parts to keep the oil from your hands off the parts too.
The silver is unpolished ceramichrome coatings from Techline. They really need to be polished to complete the process. (When that is done, they look like chrome plate, but it's very durable, and controls heat very well.)
I would have to say, for the first time coater, the Turbo X is a better product with few problems, even if your coatings go on less than perfect. The "gray" color is actually calcium from the engine being washed... when coated, the parts are a satin black color that's very nice looking. Just be very careful when washing parts at the car wash. They turned gray instantly, and it was a reall PITA to try and clean this stuff off. (The calcium deposits that is.) The Turbo X never failed or flaked or anything. Infact, I had to bend and smash down a turbo support bracket coated with turbo X, and figured when I hit it with my 8lb drilling hammer, it would flake off.. Nope, the pipe deformed, and crushed where I wanted it to, and the coating did not come off at all. It did transfer some of the coating to the hammer face, and point end that I was using, and that coating transfer is still on the hammer today. The part did not rust where it was smashed down, and the coating handled the abuse with flying colors!
Any rust you see is from gaskets or fasteners that have rusted or corroded next to or on the coatings over the cast iron hot side of the turbo.
(My current Masterpower T70 has the CHRA coated with a custom color made up of Turbo X and ceramichrome. (I was low on both, so combined them to see how it would work, and I really like the glossy gray color it ended up. Think dark Ti color, and your there.) So far, it has held up great!
I coated my modified Ebay manifold, the hot side and other parts again. Some are the "gray" and some are pure black turbo X.