Okay, i looked around i could find nothing on this. So does the thickness matter (MM wise)?Im gonna keep the pistons at stock bore and stroke, the head will most likely need machining. Also any tips on the sealer i should use and how much torque I should i use to tighten it down? On 7mpower.com a guy used 90 ft pounds on a 500hp motor with stock internals and it runs strong. I will be using a HKS stopper gasket (not purchased yet) and ARP headstuds (also not purchased). Sorry to waste your time if this has already been beaten up, but please help me!
Does headgasket thickness matter?
- Thread starter supramk3speed
- Start date
75 ft/lbs on the arp's, then retorque them to 80 ft/lbs after 5 heat cycles.
And yes thickness dose matter, depends on how much is machined off your head and block. There is a thread about this a little below this one, lol
And yes thickness dose matter, depends on how much is machined off your head and block. There is a thread about this a little below this one, lol
The HKS Stopper only comes in a 2mm thickness iirc.
Both the head and block decks will need to be machined to a smoothness of at least 30 RA for the Stopper to seal correctly.
Both the head and block decks will need to be machined to a smoothness of at least 30 RA for the Stopper to seal correctly.
HKS also has a 1.0 Stopper as well, there is a guy selling one right now. I thought the stopper seals better than the bead?
Ahhh...thanks!
It does seal better...it also is the most picky when it comes to head/block deck surface smoothness too
It does seal better...it also is the most picky when it comes to head/block deck surface smoothness too
black89t;1203260 said:
Stud spec are 80 ft/lbs and bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs on an aluminum head...both assume moly is used for lube. For a retorque, 92nsx was using a "technique"...set the studs at a slightly lower torque value and then set final torque after 5 heat-up/cool-down cycles. This will work just fine.
I prefer to set an accurate preload from the start. You torque to just below spec (75 ft/lbs for studs) in the TSRM sequence, then loosen them in the TSRM loosening sequence, then torque again. 3-5 torque cycles are sufficient...on the final cycle, torque to spec (80 ft/lbs). This burnishes the threads and minimizes the friction between the nut and stud. It's a very accurate way to set torque.