Does anyone run active components? What drivers and where

[FullNelson]

I all ready have the hardware to do it minus the drivers, and an alpine imprint system that's in transit. So, what drivers have you guys used? Has any one ever fit 8s in the door? Or used 6.5/7s for mid bass? What about using a kickpanel with a manual car?

Just looking for ideas

 

[te72]

Dunno about anything bigger than 6.5's in the door, I'm sure it could be done with a bit of finesse and a big enough hammer... I'm running 6.5's in the door right now, Polk db6501's. Sounds pretty good, but still not terribly "bass-y".

 

[FullNelson]

Do you remember how much depth you had to spare between the magnet and the window? They're 2.5" depth or 2"?

 

[te72]

According to Crutchfield (I got them on Amazon, was a lot cheaper... sale?), they're 1-11/16" top mount depth. Not sure what that means. KevinM (the guy who had set up the 6.5" replica pod group buy) has some pretty massive speakers in his doors, you might PM him about that. I honestly don't know how much space my speakers afforded me, they didn't even hit the back of the pod so I'm not worried about them.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/Polk-Audio-db6501.html?tp=106&tab=features_and_specs

 

[FullNelson]

Ive got an idea for a nice mid bass, but it looks like its a 3.5" mounting depth

 

[BigKO]

Hmm I am in the process of mounting a component set in my doors. Beend going slow and taking my time cuz I'm lazy on my break over school, but I believe they are 2.75" mounting depth. They clear fine after a bit of finessing on the 91 6.5" speaker pods. I will measure them for you to see how much distance there is to the window at its shallowest point if you are still curious.

 

[OfnaRcR4]

I just made my own mounting board out of some 1/4" wood and mounted some RF t162s's to it and bolted it to the door. Then i just took the flushmount tweet enclosures and stuck them in the upper door panel where the defrost vent is. Sounds great but again its really hard to get bass out of anything in our doors.

 

[BigKO]

Yeah, I used the stock 91+ door panels for mine because I was hoping that retaining the box would also help to retain some of the bass rather than just having it open air. May not make any difference, but hopefully it will sound good. I also got the tweeter in the stock location. I also am not sure if that is ideal, but prefer cutting speaker pods to door panels. It's also a little more low key because I have a huge problem with car break ins and theft in my area.

 

[FullNelson]

I just made my own mounting board out of some 1/4" wood and mounted some RF t162s's to it and bolted it to the door. Then i just took the flushmount tweet enclosures and stuck them in the upper door panel where the defrost vent is. Sounds great but again its really hard to get bass out of anything in our doors.

How much did you try and seal and deaden the door? It seems like people in the audio world say that good sound is like 90% install and 10% product. Not sure if I believe its skewed that much though.

 

[OfnaRcR4]

Definitely not that much, maybe 70% install 30% product. I just have them in there with some foam baffling just because i don't have anything else. Best bet would be to dynomat the whole inside skin of the door and the panel itself. Pods would be better than that but after making 3 pods and failing terribly at all of them i wrote that idea off for this car. Best bet is to get a decent small sub and amp everything... sub, mids and highs. A lot of people forget how important it is to amp mids and highs.

 

[FullNelson]

My mids/highs are all ready amped, and being a 4" coaxial, I was considering setting those as my highs and using a dedicated speaker for 70/80hz- 1khz and going subless (for weight and space savings). Dont know where Id put the midbass though or what size to use. Or if it would be as simple as a quality 6.5 comp. setup with a good install sealed and deadened.

 

[trucker]

if you are brave, and can carve out some depth, look at Exodus EX Anarchy . these things are monsters, and will be a great midbass/midrange.

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538

and then a set of these, and forget the tweeter.

http://meniscusaudio.com/fountek-fr89ex4-p-1165.html

and seal off the access holes in the doors with something solid before you throw a layer of d-mat on them

the build in my satty will use the same idea(augmented widebander, as opposed to mid/tweet)

ill be using different drivers though, just picked up a set of H-audio ARduos....kinna expensive though


dont be afraid to do a little research. partsexpress.com, and madisound.com are your friends. i have built a front stage with a set of $10 ea peerless mids(it was a blowout price), and $34 a pair of vifa tweets that will out-perform name-brand component sets at many times the cost.

i have gotten back into audio in a big way lately, im sitting on a collection of 30odd amps, a few head units(including a couple of full-active units), and more speakers thn i will ever use.

i have been neglecting my time here a bit because of it.

 

[FullNelson]

HA, kinda suprised to hear your reply with a mid-bass driver, as that was my choice when I stated the 3.5" mounting depth earlier. I like the idea compared to the peerless/dayton audio 8" that everyone raves about (dont know how these guys stuff those in doors). I was thinking of trying to pair those up with a pillar mounted fountek fr88? . Im just a little comprehensive about tuning it all with some alpine imprint software.

 

[trucker]

that part is simple, you cant tune it up with the imprint. their highpass will only go down to 1200hz. the founteks can run down to 300ish hz. lol, i cant use my pioneer prs880 either for the same reason. had to buy a clarion dxz785usb to get there. otherwise, i would have to use some head unit's highpass, and a two way that will go to 400 or so.

what you Can do is go to a 3 way front set up. midbass in door, small midrange and tweet in pillar or dash pod.

in spite of the clarion, im moving out a bunch of stuff to scrape up the nickels for an ms8. then either a Zed leviathan, or a zuki 5 channel.(still talking to zuki to see if theit "30 watt" 5 channel will be sufficient for my needs



oh btw, the anarchys are on sale right now. $65 each.. i just picked up a pair. last time they were this cheap they only had 10 pairs at that price