Do you want Energy Suspension Poly Bushings? READ HERE.
- Thread starter Doward
- Start date
Im really glad we finaly got these developed guys, it took awile but it sure was worth it. We have been selling a ton of these kits, and are always ordering more from energy. We keep 3-5 front and rear sets in both red and black in stock at all times!
Suspension is totally rockin', 'cept now I have the front clunk when turning left (incline/decline). I am sure it's the sway bar bushings, since they weren't touched and need replacing.
CK,
Can you get the right ES sway bar bushings/brackets for the MKIII? Front and rear?
CK,
Can you get the right ES sway bar bushings/brackets for the MKIII? Front and rear?
/\/\ indeed, almost no point to get stock sway bushes if you're goin aftermarket sway later. But I DO have a set of Energy sway bar bushings Fr & Rr with brackets in stock, and keep the whole bushing set for $120 for front and rear together
Wasn't planning to upgrade the sway bars, but figured since I'd used the poly bushings everywhere else, I'd go w/some polys on the stock sway bars.
Are you saying that the sway bar poly bushings/brackets are $120, or that they be in the whole suspension set, for $120?
'Cause if it is ~$120 just for the sway bar bushings, I'd agree that it ain't much more for the aftermarket sway bar kit.
Are you saying that the sway bar poly bushings/brackets are $120, or that they be in the whole suspension set, for $120?
'Cause if it is ~$120 just for the sway bar bushings, I'd agree that it ain't much more for the aftermarket sway bar kit.
...is that shipped?
How long/how bad is the install? I have access to a press, but have never tried anything like this, even though I'm sure that my car is in dire need of these.
What benefits can I expect from these?
I'm sure this has been covered before, but I don't have the energy to peruse 31 pages of replies, so I apologize ahead of time.
How long/how bad is the install? I have access to a press, but have never tried anything like this, even though I'm sure that my car is in dire need of these.
What benefits can I expect from these?
I'm sure this has been covered before, but I don't have the energy to peruse 31 pages of replies, so I apologize ahead of time.
qestion
i have the rk kit on my old car i had big issue's with creeking
does the engery creek
the rk kit creeks from day of install and yes i used lube
these are suppost to be alot softer then the the rk thus why i am asking
i have the rk kit on my old car i had big issue's with creeking
does the engery creek
the rk kit creeks from day of install and yes i used lube
these are suppost to be alot softer then the the rk thus why i am asking
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No no, the sway bars arent $120, thats for the F&R control arm kits, shipping not included in that price.
Energy doesnt make the sway bar bushings, these are actually my own prototype bushings that they made for me when they were trying to determine marketability and decided to can the sway bar bushing effort. But since I have ST sways I cant use these. However for NASA I pan on using the stock rear bar and the ST rear bar for drifting so I would be needing my rear bushings for that. Still havent fully evaluated the stock rear bar for NASA usage. I need to run more tests on the car and see which sway bar it likes best on the track. Because I know my Sup loves the ST bar for drifting, makes the rear swang easy, but it hates the ST bar AutoXing because it makes the rear swang easy.
These bushings dont creak. I've been using them since virtually their inception and havent had any noises.
Energy doesnt make the sway bar bushings, these are actually my own prototype bushings that they made for me when they were trying to determine marketability and decided to can the sway bar bushing effort. But since I have ST sways I cant use these. However for NASA I pan on using the stock rear bar and the ST rear bar for drifting so I would be needing my rear bushings for that. Still havent fully evaluated the stock rear bar for NASA usage. I need to run more tests on the car and see which sway bar it likes best on the track. Because I know my Sup loves the ST bar for drifting, makes the rear swang easy, but it hates the ST bar AutoXing because it makes the rear swang easy.
These bushings dont creak. I've been using them since virtually their inception and havent had any noises.
Hello Guys and Gals,
I am officially letting the board know that these parts ARE available and can be ordered through your local autoparts stores, performance warehouses, and online resources.
87 - 92 MKIII Front Control Arm Bushing Set - 8.3126*
87 - 92 MKIII Rear Control Arm Bushing Set - 8.3127*
87 - 92 MKIII Front Sway Bar Bushing Set - 8.5133*
87 - 92 MKIII Rear Sway Bar Bushing Set - 8.5134*
*Place an "R" at the end of the part # for Red and a "G" for Graphite Black.
I am officially letting the board know that these parts ARE available and can be ordered through your local autoparts stores, performance warehouses, and online resources.
87 - 92 MKIII Front Control Arm Bushing Set - 8.3126*
87 - 92 MKIII Rear Control Arm Bushing Set - 8.3127*
87 - 92 MKIII Front Sway Bar Bushing Set - 8.5133*
87 - 92 MKIII Rear Sway Bar Bushing Set - 8.5134*
*Place an "R" at the end of the part # for Red and a "G" for Graphite Black.
Welcome to the boards!! I'm very glad we were able to get these rolling. How about some rack and pinion bushings? 
EnrgySuspension;1195716 said:
Perfect! I tried ordering them through my local parts shop last week, couldnt find them.. Il be going back in to order!
If anyone on the board is willing to write up and photograph a "do-it-yourself" article, for these bushings, I will reward them with a free set of front and rear control arm bushings and front and rear sway bar bushings to get the job done. If interested send me an email jbonnett@energysuspension.com
Jeff
Energy Suspension
Jeff
Energy Suspension
Jeff, tell Brian to return my calls!! You need to make a full set for the FD RX7.
BTW, We keep these sets IN STOCK for $120!
BTW, We keep these sets IN STOCK for $120!
any news when mine will be in?Grimsta;1196535 said:Jeff, tell Brian to return my calls!! You need to make a full set for the FD RX7.
BTW, We keep these sets IN STOCK for $120!
They've already been shipped out! So since I already received mine you should have yours by next monday or Tuesday
getting the correct size pipe that will sit on the suspension arm and still allow the bushing to be pushed thru is needed. also another pipe/shaft that will sit on the bushing and be smaller than the OD of the arm is also needed. this can be difficult to get.
i found some at my friends shop but his press was difficult to work with as i had to use a long driver rod on the press. Those front lower bushings took 2000 to 4000 lbs to push that dam sleeve cartridge the rubber is in out of the arm hole.
the lower arms bushings also have a collor that was used to push the bushings in that has to come off so you can continue to push the bushing on thru. I could not support the susp arm from the outer side of the bushing because the collar was there. i had to cut the collar off so i could put a pipe on the susp arm and press the bushing out from the other side. PITA.
the upper bushings have rubber collars where the washers go. you can support the arms with a pipe from the inside and push the rubber bushing on thru. The rubber collar will press thru the aluminum susp arm hole.
I used Super Pro bushings as that is what was available then. The SP bushings slid in the upper arms with grease and a light hand press. The lower susp arms with Spr Pro just went in by hand on each side of the arm hole. Those bushings have a metal washer on one side.
Get those bushings lined up straight and they will press in. I will post some pics of my Super Pro bushing install.
If no one has not volunteered i can get some suspension arms and take pics installing and removing the bushings.
The pics are of the lower arms and the cartridge of the outer sleeve with rubber insert. The rubber broke and came out when the press was applied. i took a carbide grinding bit and cut a slit in the cartridge sleeve only and not the susp arm metal. then a screwdriver to bend up the sleeve and curl it out. Therer is a pic where you have to cut off the collor of the sleeve so it will go out when pressed on. you have to press from the outside of the bushing and the sleeve wont let you do that. I could not support the arm on the outside to try to press the sleeve out avoiding cutting off the colar but could not support the arm evenly. A pic shows a cartridge with rubber still in it and the one where i had to cut the empty sleeve out.
another pic shows the upper arms bushing with the side rubber where the washers rest. These were easier to get to.
i found some at my friends shop but his press was difficult to work with as i had to use a long driver rod on the press. Those front lower bushings took 2000 to 4000 lbs to push that dam sleeve cartridge the rubber is in out of the arm hole.
the lower arms bushings also have a collor that was used to push the bushings in that has to come off so you can continue to push the bushing on thru. I could not support the susp arm from the outer side of the bushing because the collar was there. i had to cut the collar off so i could put a pipe on the susp arm and press the bushing out from the other side. PITA.
the upper bushings have rubber collars where the washers go. you can support the arms with a pipe from the inside and push the rubber bushing on thru. The rubber collar will press thru the aluminum susp arm hole.
I used Super Pro bushings as that is what was available then. The SP bushings slid in the upper arms with grease and a light hand press. The lower susp arms with Spr Pro just went in by hand on each side of the arm hole. Those bushings have a metal washer on one side.
Get those bushings lined up straight and they will press in. I will post some pics of my Super Pro bushing install.
If no one has not volunteered i can get some suspension arms and take pics installing and removing the bushings.
The pics are of the lower arms and the cartridge of the outer sleeve with rubber insert. The rubber broke and came out when the press was applied. i took a carbide grinding bit and cut a slit in the cartridge sleeve only and not the susp arm metal. then a screwdriver to bend up the sleeve and curl it out. Therer is a pic where you have to cut off the collor of the sleeve so it will go out when pressed on. you have to press from the outside of the bushing and the sleeve wont let you do that. I could not support the arm on the outside to try to press the sleeve out avoiding cutting off the colar but could not support the arm evenly. A pic shows a cartridge with rubber still in it and the one where i had to cut the empty sleeve out.
another pic shows the upper arms bushing with the side rubber where the washers rest. These were easier to get to.
