Do we have to prime our oil pump?
- Thread starter phoenix6
- Start date
???? no necessary?
I do this before putting the timing belt on. Get a drill with a 12mm bit, put it on the oil pump pulley(with the pan full) and go after it. Just make sure you don't have any place that is open for the oil to go. It may not be necessary, but it damn sure isn't a bad idea.
I do this before putting the timing belt on. Get a drill with a 12mm bit, put it on the oil pump pulley(with the pan full) and go after it. Just make sure you don't have any place that is open for the oil to go. It may not be necessary, but it damn sure isn't a bad idea.
Or you can disconnect the igniter and turn the motor over for a minute 
If everything is lubed properly during assembly, there should be no problem.
Phoenix - I need some more info on exactly what you're doing for this re-build...I read your re-build thread and have a few questions:
- Are you using a GTE block & pistons for the new motor?
- Did you have any machine work done to the block, head, crank, or rods?
- Are you planning to use parts from your GE motor...which ones?
- Did you buy a complete gasket kit...who made it?
- Are you using a new oil pump? Who made it?
- Any upgrades going into this motor?
If everything is lubed properly during assembly, there should be no problem.
Phoenix - I need some more info on exactly what you're doing for this re-build...I read your re-build thread and have a few questions:
- Are you using a GTE block & pistons for the new motor?
- Did you have any machine work done to the block, head, crank, or rods?
- Are you planning to use parts from your GE motor...which ones?
- Did you buy a complete gasket kit...who made it?
- Are you using a new oil pump? Who made it?
- Any upgrades going into this motor?
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jdub said:Or you can disconnect the igniter and turn the motor over for a minute
If everything is lubed properly during assembly, there should be no problem.
Phoenix - I need some more info on exactly what you're doing for this re-build...I read your re-build thread and have a few questions:
- Are you using a GTE block & pistons for the new motor?
- Did you have any machine work done to the block, head, crank, or rods?
- Are you planning to use parts from your GE motor...which ones?
- Did you buy a complete gasket kit...who made it?
- Are you using a new oil pump? Who made it?
- Any upgrades going into this motor?
GE block, GTE crank, and rods. GE Pistons, all swapped over.
Some gaskets, are fel pro, the rest including the HG, are Toyota OEM
New OEM oil pump from dealer
No upgrades except the ARP Studs, new pump and all the shit thats new.
Ok...a couple of things.
I assume you are going to leave this motor NA...is that correct?
You will need to have the block cylinders honed at minimum and new rings for the pistons. Otherwise, you will burn enough oil to look like you're spraying mosquitoes. You should check the block and head decks for flatness using a machinist straight edge...they must be flat or the HG may not seal. You should have the crank turned and the rods resized for stock bearings sizes...that and using new bearings is the right way to do it. IMO...if you're going to all this trouble, a valve job and replacing the valve seals is a good idea. I assume you are using a new timing belt.
A few gotchas:
- The front timing plate must be exactly at or slightly below the block deck surface or it will interfere with the head seating properly. The TRSM has locations for FIPG or RTV on the corners of this plate...if you don't use it, an oil leak will result.
- Pay attention to the cam shaft caps...they are marked I1, I2...E1, E2. I is for intake, E is exhaust...there is a specific pattern for installation in the TRSM.
- Check you valve shim clearances with the head outside the motor...much easier to re-shim if out of tolerance with the head on a bench
- Make damn sure there is no old HG material on the block/head deck.
- USE plenty of lube on every bearing, cylinder, piston, main cap, cam cap...pretty much everything that gets oil normally.
- Use Permatex #5, also known as "Indian Head" on the outside edge of your main and oil shaft seals...prevents oil seep
- Replace all hoses...especially the little 90 deg ones from the back of the heater outlet banjo to hard pipe and the one behind the water pump housing to the same hardline.
- Double check all torque specs...do this, trust me
- Read the TRSM step by step...then read it again. Just make sure you don't miss anything.
When you are done, this should be broke in like a new motor. Like I said above, disconnect the coil to distributor and turn the motor over for at least one minute to get the oil to the top of the engine. Use valvoline straight 30W oil for the 1st couple hundred mile, change the oil and filter (30W again) and run to 1500 miles or so. Change oil and filter again but switch to a synthetic...a 5W-30 will work well where you live. During break in, vary rpm...don't hold a constant engine speed for extended periods and don't idle for any length of time. On the 1st drive, take it up to 4000 rpm, let off...run normally for a couple of miles, hit it again...this helps seat the rings. After that drive normally for remainder of break in.
I assume you are going to leave this motor NA...is that correct?
You will need to have the block cylinders honed at minimum and new rings for the pistons. Otherwise, you will burn enough oil to look like you're spraying mosquitoes. You should check the block and head decks for flatness using a machinist straight edge...they must be flat or the HG may not seal. You should have the crank turned and the rods resized for stock bearings sizes...that and using new bearings is the right way to do it. IMO...if you're going to all this trouble, a valve job and replacing the valve seals is a good idea. I assume you are using a new timing belt.
A few gotchas:
- The front timing plate must be exactly at or slightly below the block deck surface or it will interfere with the head seating properly. The TRSM has locations for FIPG or RTV on the corners of this plate...if you don't use it, an oil leak will result.
- Pay attention to the cam shaft caps...they are marked I1, I2...E1, E2. I is for intake, E is exhaust...there is a specific pattern for installation in the TRSM.
- Check you valve shim clearances with the head outside the motor...much easier to re-shim if out of tolerance with the head on a bench
- Make damn sure there is no old HG material on the block/head deck.
- USE plenty of lube on every bearing, cylinder, piston, main cap, cam cap...pretty much everything that gets oil normally.
- Use Permatex #5, also known as "Indian Head" on the outside edge of your main and oil shaft seals...prevents oil seep
- Replace all hoses...especially the little 90 deg ones from the back of the heater outlet banjo to hard pipe and the one behind the water pump housing to the same hardline.
- Double check all torque specs...do this, trust me
- Read the TRSM step by step...then read it again. Just make sure you don't miss anything.
When you are done, this should be broke in like a new motor. Like I said above, disconnect the coil to distributor and turn the motor over for at least one minute to get the oil to the top of the engine. Use valvoline straight 30W oil for the 1st couple hundred mile, change the oil and filter (30W again) and run to 1500 miles or so. Change oil and filter again but switch to a synthetic...a 5W-30 will work well where you live. During break in, vary rpm...don't hold a constant engine speed for extended periods and don't idle for any length of time. On the 1st drive, take it up to 4000 rpm, let off...run normally for a couple of miles, hit it again...this helps seat the rings. After that drive normally for remainder of break in.
jdub said:Ok...a couple of things.
I assume you are going to leave this motor NA...is that correct?
You will need to have the block cylinders honed at minimum and new rings for the pistons. Otherwise, you will burn enough oil to look like you're spraying mosquitoes. You should check the block and head decks for flatness using a machinist straight edge...they must be flat or the HG may not seal. You should have the crank turned and the rods resized for stock bearings sizes...that and using new bearings is the right way to do it. IMO...if you're going to all this trouble, a valve job and replacing the valve seals is a good idea. I assume you are using a new timing belt.
A few gotchas:
- The front timing plate must be exactly at or slightly below the block deck surface or it will interfere with the head seating properly. The TRSM has locations for FIPG or RTV on the corners of this plate...if you don't use it, an oil leak will result.
- Pay attention to the cam shaft caps...they are marked I1, I2...E1, E2. I is for intake, E is exhaust...there is a specific pattern for installation in the TRSM.
- Check you valve shim clearances with the head outside the motor...much easier to re-shim if out of tolerance with the head on a bench
- Make damn sure there is no old HG material on the block/head deck.
- USE plenty of lube on every bearing, cylinder, piston, main cap, cam cap...pretty much everything that gets oil normally.
- Use Permatex #5, also known as "Indian Head" on the outside edge of your main and oil shaft seals...prevents oil seep
- Replace all hoses...especially the little 90 deg ones from the back of the heater outlet banjo to hard pipe and the one behind the water pump housing to the same hardline.
- Double check all torque specs...do this, trust me
- Read the TRSM step by step...then read it again. Just make sure you don't miss anything.
When you are done, this should be broke in like a new motor. Like I said above, disconnect the coil to distributor and turn the motor over for at least one minute to get the oil to the top of the engine. Use valvoline straight 30W oil for the 1st couple hundred mile, change the oil and filter (30W again) and run to 1500 miles or so. Change oil and filter again but switch to a synthetic...a 5W-30 will work well where you live. During break in, vary rpm...don't hold a constant engine speed for extended periods and don't idle for any length of time. On the 1st drive, take it up to 4000 rpm, let off...run normally for a couple of miles, hit it again...this helps seat the rings. After that drive normally for remainder of break in.
Used crank and rods from a running GTE, after I installed it all I checked the plastigauge on every bearing, it was dead on perfect clearance per tsrm.
Checked the flatness, flat. Again, this motor wasnt even anywhere NEAR a HG problem, that was all perfect, and it didnt burn oil. I cleaned off ALL olf HG material on both ends.
Theres a new head coming in sometime next week, was rebuilt 7k miles ago, its still good, guy checked it out b4 he sent it.
I bought the black RTV for the oil pan, is this ok to use where TSRM said for the timing cover where it meets the block?
Ive been lubricating EVERYTHING so far, and checked and double checked my torque specs on all pieces so far.
go read my thread on WHY the engine messed up, everything else was damn nice when I took it apart.
Im almost done, I think tomorrow MIGHT be the day. I just discovered I need a 12 point deep socket for the ARP studs, the normal sizes didnt work...
Did you hone the cylinders and replace the rings? The rings also have to be gapped. Trust me, once the rings seat in the cylinder (regardless of mileage) they will not seat properly again if removed.
The black RTV should be fine for the timing plate...copper RTV is better due to the heat involved. Get a tube of the "Right Stuff" for the oil pan...I used it and not a leak anywhere.
Get a Craftsman 3/8" deep socket w/ a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter for your torque wrench. Other brands might work too, but that's what I used...that socket fit down the hole in the head for the studs no problem.
The black RTV should be fine for the timing plate...copper RTV is better due to the heat involved. Get a tube of the "Right Stuff" for the oil pan...I used it and not a leak anywhere.
Get a Craftsman 3/8" deep socket w/ a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter for your torque wrench. Other brands might work too, but that's what I used...that socket fit down the hole in the head for the studs no problem.
jdub said:
Rings no, same ones, I poured oil into each one, hand cranked it over a buncha times and let it sit overnight, nothing leaked anywhere, I did place the rings in the areas shown across each side however. I didnt hone the cylinders either, had a mechanic tell me they were ok. Im pretty much sumped dry for cash anymore and I got everything I needed except that damn deep socket.
Not to mention its all pretty much assembled, including pistons, rings, bottom end.
Plus I wont lie, I only need it to last me 3 to 6 months while I save up for a DD, then Ill get into storage and build up a solid engine.
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Ok so everyones saying its IMPOSSIBLE for me to NOT hone the cyl walls and use the old rings and it not burn oil? This isnt possible for it to work correctly or what?
I thought it was impossible to get my valves back in without a compressor or something, but I got that done, I also thought it was impossible for someone like me 6 months ago who didnt know how the 7m worked exactly, to get this far. Im a true believer so far, Im in strong confidence this will work, if Im wrong, I eat my words and move forward, but Ive come this far, Im gonna go for it.
I thought it was impossible to get my valves back in without a compressor or something, but I got that done, I also thought it was impossible for someone like me 6 months ago who didnt know how the 7m worked exactly, to get this far. Im a true believer so far, Im in strong confidence this will work, if Im wrong, I eat my words and move forward, but Ive come this far, Im gonna go for it.
yae there is no need to prime the motor. cause time you got the t blet on and such the persure will drop .
so the old fastion pop out all the plugs kill fule pump aka efi fuse
and some say put some oil down the spark plugs hole's the ring's don't ware out wheil cranking this is if you want to do the oil thing you don't ahve to but meh
so the old fastion pop out all the plugs kill fule pump aka efi fuse
and some say put some oil down the spark plugs hole's the ring's don't ware out wheil cranking this is if you want to do the oil thing you don't ahve to but meh
All I can say is I've had the piston/rod out of a running motor, put it back in without honing or changing the ring, and have absolutely no problems. It doesn't burn any oil and has been running for 15k since then.
miekedmr said:
I was told by 3 people, 2 mechanics, that if they go back in the SAME hole, no problems, the seating will remain ok.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
As long as the same pistons/rings go back into the same holes, you should be fine. (not optimum, but it should work.)
If you have to replace a piston and rings, then you should hone that bore at the very minimum.
I like to pack the oil pump with assy. grease. Helps to create suction to suck up oil when you start the motor, and that assy grease is just disolved into the motor and helps to keep everything nice and slippery.
With your first oil change, the assy grease laden oil will be drained off. (What's not caught in your oil filter that is.)
Just make sure your first few oil changes are when the engine is nice and hot. (Helps to get rid of all the assy. gunk in your engine.)
If you have to replace a piston and rings, then you should hone that bore at the very minimum.
I like to pack the oil pump with assy. grease. Helps to create suction to suck up oil when you start the motor, and that assy grease is just disolved into the motor and helps to keep everything nice and slippery.
With your first oil change, the assy grease laden oil will be drained off. (What's not caught in your oil filter that is.)
Just make sure your first few oil changes are when the engine is nice and hot. (Helps to get rid of all the assy. gunk in your engine.)