Distributor Resistance

S

SupraStoked

New Member
Apr 26, 2012
128
0
0
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States
After putting my motor back together after a bhg, i noticed it had a random misfire at idle and when reved up and held at any rpm you can hear the "put-puttin" every second or so from the tail pipe.

I checked the resistance of the pick up coils in on the distributor and compared them to the tsrm and this is what i found.

G1 pickup coil resistance: 202 ohms
G2 pickup coil resistance: 197-200 ohms
The last pickup coil Ne : 200-ish ohms

Apparently they should all be between 140-180 ohms of resistance. Is this enough of a difference to throw everything off and make my car misfire?
The misfiring also can randomly get worse as i drive or even on a startup after i leave it sitting for a while. If i try to accelerate, the car jerks pretty bad as if i was stepping on and off the gas pedal really fast.

Thanks in advance
 
Asterix

Asterix

Lurker of Power
Mar 31, 2005
469
36
28
Vienna, VA
Last winter, my car didn't want to start when cold, and the only thing I found was that the pickup coils in my remanufactured distributor were around 200 ohms, like yours. I swapped in my original coils that were within spec and my cold start problem went away. It seems the system is picky. I also figured going from 180 to 200ohms wasn't much difference.

Double check the pickup coil clearances also. The TSRM shows how.

I second hvyman's advice to fix your check engine light problem.
 
S

SupraStoked

New Member
Apr 26, 2012
128
0
0
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States
I think my check engine problem is due to the fact that i installed an in-guage aftermarket oil pressure gauge and left the bulb directly behind the OE oil press gauge out since the aftermarket gauge has one in it.

Thanks Asterix, i checked all the clearances (air gaps) and their within spec. I also cleaned the distributor casing out with electrical cleaner (fast drying). Havent put it back in the car yet because im wondering about the couple of holes at the back of the distributor. Their a pretty good size and look factory drilled. Pretty sure it would be easy for moisture to get in there and cause my problem.

Do you guys think sealing these holes somehow might be a good idea? I also recently connected a vacuum to the distributor cap after noticing the misfire problem. I don't think that hole would help in trying to have a vacuum in my distributor..
 
S

SupraStoked

New Member
Apr 26, 2012
128
0
0
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States
Just a little update:

After cleaning the inside of the distributor with CRC electrical cleaner, i let it dry for a couple nights. I also managed to clean up the connector coming off of it. I then commenced to check the conditions of the wires leading back from the dizzy and noticed that the crimped connection where the three 'Ne' terminals come together to one wire, was flimsy and uninsulated. Not to mention the wires were pretty beat up and hard from the heat over time.

I replaced the old crimped butt connector with a new one and stripped the 3 converging wires back to expose 'untouched' strands of wire. Gave them a mechanical crimp with my Greenlee crimpers then heat shrink and boom..

All 3 pick up coils are reading around 167 Ohms consistently. Down from around 200 Ohms, i would call that a good improvement.

Picked up a new cap and rotor button today so I'll let you all know when I put it back on the car.
 
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