Discussion on the potential of the 7MGE

[IJ.]

"John Smith"

He's a relative of a friend, when I first got the Mk3 my bud asked if he had any Supra parts left from the 80's but he's sold all his spares by then.

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Hahahaha i knew you'd know him Ian. He said when he bought the car they pointed to a big pile of spare parts and said "that goes with the car".Apparently amongst the spares were a few gearboxes worth a small fortune, race prepped.Id have loved to get my hands on them.:biglaugh:

 

[toy fanatic78]

"John Smith"

He's a relative of a friend, when I first got the Mk3 my bud asked if he had any Supra parts left from the 80's but he's sold all his spares by then.

Thanks for the "help" Ian,but I was wondering about any companies that would/still do make them.

 

[wiseco7mgt]

I'd use ACL (mahle) pistons as they are cheaper and in n/a applications work well, very durable.Check to see if they make a race series for the 7mge.

 

[Tire Shredder]

My apologies tyre shredder, i didn't realise he competed overseas with a different colour scheme.
Yes that's the same guy his name from memory is "john".Hmmmm i still have his number.

no problem! yeah from what I understand the car has had many resprays and many sponsors. It's got a LOT of track miles on it over the years! he mentioned he didn't like the white on race cars, so went with the orange scheme for the latest respray.

 

[cuel]

JE Racing makes 10:1 pistons(horsepowerfreaks.com carries them). I'm pretty sure Wiseco will make any piston you want.

 

[gofastgeorge]

Flatlander has Wiseco 10.5:1 pistons.

 

[wiseco7mgt]

JE Racing makes 10:1 pistons(horsepowerfreaks.com carries them). I'm pretty sure Wiseco will make any piston you want.

I agree i didn't want to say wiseco because i'm biased towards them lol, it's the only piston i've used in both motorbikes and cars with success.

 

[benchwarmer]

Flatlander has Wiseco 10.5:1 pistons.

Flatlander will have wisecos made in any compression ratio you want.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Yes Flatlander has the Wiseco, were I got mine.

Well said Tireshedder

 

[dexterrogers]

To the question of weather or not this built is worth it really does depend on what your trying to accomplish. For my purposes this should be perfect.
The car itself is very light, I've removed most of what I see as non essential. I'm using billet aluminum for all of the bracketry and spacers and really all of the custom parts I've built. Weight is key in my eyes.
Money wise a turbo set up would be cheaper and make more power. I have had the pleasure of an 88 turbo, plain and simple it's just not what I want. Also keep in mind I don't plan to sell this once it's done. This is my car, I plan to keep it. I doubt if it will ever be truely finished.
In all honesty I'm shooting for 100 per liter. I don't think it's impossible. With coated pistons and a fogger wet shot I had planned on nitrous from the start, just for the odd blast on the occasion I line up with a quick car.
The real questions I'd like to ask are cam timing, effectiveness of the ram air, will the stock crank pulley fly apart at high rpms, why don't people use that accusump more often?

Thanks to everyone for the input! Tire Shredder I like your car a lot, I followed the build, awesome work. Keep it all coming!

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Nothing is impossible, it just costs more.The raceing ones back in the day had around the 300 hp figure so it can be done.Ask the older guys with the know how and they may have some tips.
I'f it was mine id get the basics to start with like.... crank knife edged and balanced, ati dampener, 40+ raceing pistons, pauter rods, deep sump , new oil pump, lightened flywheel do the math and aim for the highest compression pump fuel will allow without pinging.
Do the research on porting the head for n/a application.

 

[toy fanatic78]

Two things.First one is in my thread on 6M/7M cranks,the general consensus was that knife edging was a bad idea,taking weight off towards the outside of the counterweights tends to throw off the balance a lot easier.
Second one is a question.The 7M stock rods are known good to pretty high levels of horsepower,higher than you will see with an na motor,so is it worth it,or even necessary to go with aftermarket rods?

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Two things.First one is in my thread on 6M/7M cranks,the general consensus was that knife edging was a bad idea,taking weight off towards the outside of the counterweights tends to throw off the balance a lot easier.
Second one is a question.The 7M stock rods are known good to pretty high levels of horsepower,higher than you will see with an na motor,so is it worth it,or even necessary to go with aftermarket rods?

Actually if the crank is knife edged properly taking weight from the right area it can done, its just harder to balance. Putting the rods under higher stress like high compression and also high revs is enough reason for me to get some decent rods or at least get the factory ones shot peened.

 

[toy fanatic78]

Actually if the crank is knife edged properly taking weight from the right area it can done, its just harder to balance. Putting the rods under higher stress like high compression and also high revs is enough reason for me to get some decent rods or at least get the factory ones shot peened.

The car wont rev over 7200(factory rev limit)without a standalone correct?
What boost levels would be equal to ~11-1 compression?
I think I'll probably go with shot peened factory ones.

 

[gofastgeorge]

The car wont rev over 7200(factory rev limit)without a standalone correct?

And not only a good set of after market rods stronger, but much lighter.
My Eagles weigh 615 grams.
I forget what the stock ones weighed, but it was considerably more.

 

[toy fanatic78]

And not only a good set of after market rods stronger, but much lighter.
My Eagles weigh 615 grams.
I forget what the stock ones weighed, but it was considerably more.

Thanks,didn't even think about weight(duh)
Can any one chime in with an approximate weight for the stock rods.
Does the oil pump shaft have to be machined with the eagles like it does with the pauters?

 

[Tire Shredder]

Two things.First one is in my thread on 6M/7M cranks,the general consensus was that knife edging was a bad idea,taking weight off towards the outside of the counterweights tends to throw off the balance a lot easier.
Second one is a question.The 7M stock rods are known good to pretty high levels of horsepower,higher than you will see with an na motor,so is it worth it,or even necessary to go with aftermarket rods?

Rods almost always break during the exhaust stroke. Usually at the top of the stroke at high rpm when the mass of the piston and rod must be reversed in a very short amount of time. With no combustion pressure pushing on the piston to counteract this force, the rods must take 100% of the loading. When they do break, it's not the rods bolts do.

IMO, on an NA you aren't going to rev past the stock limit, don't need aftermarket rods/bolts.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

I'd say get better rods, Eagles is what I settled on, they came with ARP bolts. Just a little insurance. The crank can be balanced if it's knife edged.

There are ways to get by the stock rev limit, I know there are a few threads that have mentioned it. I have seen 7300-7400 rpm with mine, don't know why I haven't hit the rev limiter, maybe they did something wrong with my ECU

Toyfanatic: No the Eagles do not require the oil pump drive shaft to be machined, never hear of that with the Pauters. What has to be machined? With the stroker crank, I know I had to cut a few grooves in the block to clear a few rods.

 

[IJ.]

Bottoms of the bores and the Oil pump AUX shaft need clearencing for Pauters.