Disappointing Dyno

[ReQuieM]

Missed that post

Sparkies every 6 months IMHO

You can do a compression test with out a fuel pump. Your testing the Engines compression ability, so rings valves etc, not fule ignition etc.

The Blue is a piggy back, PFC is a stand alone plug and play.

To check for a boost leak, the easy way is to runt he car pop the hood and follow the piping, listening and feeling along the piping for air blowing as you rev.

 

[Sam]

Hey Requiem, ever see a street performer called the Sonic Manipulator in your city?

Sonic Manipulator

 

[ReQuieM]

Yup he's a dude. Always kickin around the CBD, usual near the mall. I heard that he's actually a Uni (college) professor. Tooo much wacky tobacky on campus me thinks

 

[Zazzn]

EMB (emanage blue) is a piggy back however, it does modify some signals like the S-AFC but not so for fuel, it taps directly in to the injector wires and you can lengthen the pulse width meaning how long the fuel injector sprays. This isn't fooling the stock ecu it uses the values form the stock ECU then extends them by sending out voltage to the injectors for x amount of time longer.

Spark plugs should be changed, 1 year is a life time on coppers besides they are like 2-3 dollars each.

As for a boost leak test, it's very hard to find a leak the way req says. You are better off going to home depot, getting a PCV end cap. in your case you want 2.5" ID which is more like 3" OD, get one of the rubber couplers form them as well take off your stock rubber elbow that connects to the air filter. Drill and tap the end cap for a 1/8th NPT and screw in a barbed fitting.

take a air compressor set it for 30 PSI and spray away in to the intake. A small amount will always leak by the throttle body but you can feel for any leaks by the couplers by hand and also you can get soapy water and spray it on the connectors to check for leaks.

I gained 50 HP fixing my leaks and returned 1000 RPM of spool.

I found I had a leak on the O ring for the BOV and a bunch of clamps that where semi on the beaded weld that held them from shooting off under boost

 

[OneJSupra]

Ok, cool! I always though there was a difference.

Now for S-AFC, it will work yes but it's POS IMO. WHY? Let me start... As I said before it scales the signal. This is LESS then IDEAL because while it scales back the Map sensor signal it also scales you back to a different timing / fueling curve. So, in a sense working against you by removing too much timing or adding it depending on how you scale with injectors.

Will s-afc work... yes.... I was able to do 450 WHP on my 7m with a S-AFC and a FPR/walbro. The trick is you need to jack up the Fuel pressure to make the car over rich then pull signal form the S-AFC to scale you down to a proper A/F while not hitting FCO... A HORRIBLE approach of fixing this problem though.

Used Emanage blue's can be had for 150-250$ and that is the price for a S-AFC.

Emanage blue gives you
-Timing control
-Idle correction
-Additional injector control
-direct fuel injector control for adding pulse width
-MAP calmping
-Map extending
-Air flow/map signal manipulation

WHY in gods name would you want the s-afc which only gives you signal manipulation?

IMO S-AFC/S-AFR and all them signal manumission jobbies are the same GARBAGE.

You don't have to agree with me but I've had the S-AFC gen 1/2 (old school knob ones then digital), S-AFR, Emanage blue and played with FCD and a few other jobbies out there.

If you can't get the emanage for the price of a s-afc, and you are tight on funds the S-AFC would work... but since SAM isn't that tight on funds. spent a good penny already E-manage is the way to go.

How could you even dispute this?

LOL, calm down kimosabe .... Not disputing anything just merely stating 1jz map sensor and 2jz map sensor are the same.

As for the safc thing vs other piggybacks comparison, I know enough what it can and cannot do. I have no comments (pos or neg). Use your own judgment on whether to use it or not.

To the OP, my apologies in regards to my reply to the above comments.

cheers

 

[Sam]

That boost leak test sounds like a good idea, Zazzn. I'll try it out when I get my car back. So how did you fix the leak in the blow off valve? Complete replacement?

 

[RacerXJ220]

Really? Hrm. Always was under the impression that the 2jz was mapping to 18 psi vs the 1jz which only mapped to 14.7
(yes you'll hit fco at 14 ish) but still once you got around that 5V would be at 18 not 14.7-15ish.

I agree with ZaZZn. 1J and 2J map sensors are not the same for the reason posted here.

 

[Sam]

Ok, since I'm about to order the Walbro 255lph fuel pump from Driftmotion, do I also need a beefed up fuel pressure regulator? Or is the stock one fine? If it's possible, I'd like to just use the stock one since the regulator kit is literally twice as much as the pump.

 

[Zazzn]

That boost leak test sounds like a good idea, Zazzn. I'll try it out when I get my car back. So how did you fix the leak in the blow off valve? Complete replacement?

Ok, since I'm about to order the Walbro 255lph fuel pump from Driftmotion, do I also need a beefed up fuel pressure regulator? Or is the stock one fine? If it's possible, I'd like to just use the stock one since the regulator kit is literally twice as much as the pump.

you can use your stock regulator for now, regulator only needed if you run lean and need more fuel. AFC wont allow more fuel since the signal is clamped form the mines ecu. Also I fixed the BOV by just rotating it on the flange, it made it seal the o-ring.

 

[2JZ_MA70]

Drop in, but I believe I said they may need to be shimmed depending on your clearances!



Exactly.


Ok Sorry for not seeing this earlier Sam... You have a few problems my friend let me try to help you fix them
Here is the list of problems you have.

1. You installed 440's but still have the 1jz map sensor
2. You have Cams not shimmed
3. you are 10.5 A/F which is too rich
4. You are using S-AFC to tune

-440's are adding 20% more fuel when not needed in all areas of your map causing you to be super rich. You need to tune around this and restore the car back values that optimize power. To restore this balance get a 2jz-get map sensor.
-Not having cams shimmed could let a valve sit open or make the valves very noisy and worse case spit a shim. The shop that did the work, are baboons if they didn't check the clearances. YOU COULD have some power loss here but i doubt it.
-10.5 A/F is killing a bunch of HP right on it's own. You should be aiming for 11.3-11.6 for the best safe power.
-S-AFC is a garbage unit as it only scales the map sensor or AFM in the case of the 7m. You should look towards getting an Emanage which can control the injectors directly by pulse width thus allowing fuel to be added the proper way.
-Give me a call if you want me to talk you though this stuff I'll be happy to help you!

-Finally I'd do a compression test to see if the engine is healthy (you may have lower numbers because of the cams) which is normal just as long as all cylinders are the same

-Do a boost leak test on your intercooler pipes by hooking up a compressor and capping one end of the IC pipes. This would cause the laggy turbo response and also the lack of top end power as all the boost is leaked out.

Right on the money.... I didnt see anywhere what boost is he running. Get that AFR ~12 at peak 11.5 towards red line. It is well in the safe limits for 93+ gas. Just spend the money and get a decent ECU that would control timing and fuel.

The 2JZ AEM unit works well... =). I can hook you up with some Pro EFI but you have to find a dealer to tune it for you.

 

[Sam]

I have my HKS timing gears now, but Autodream kept my cam card that came with my cams...

Does anyone happen to have a Brian Crower 264 cam card that they can scan for me?

 

[Sam]

Apparently Autodream wasn't much help in the matter. So I ended up just calling the Brian Crower technical support. I told them I have a 1JZ and 264 duration cams. He said for a more stable idle a couple extra horse power, I should move the the intake 2 degrees clockwise and move the exhaust 2 degrees counter-clockwise.

I suppose that's what I'll do then.