I was wondering if there is a way to completely delete the check engine light? So that it never comes on nomatter what. If so please inform me! Cause I've tried everything to get this Knock sensor code to go off and it refuses, I rewired the knock sensors when i first got the car and the light went off for about 6 months and then suddenly came back on, ive since replaced both knock sensors and checked the wires and it still refuses to go off.
Disable check engine light?
- Thread starter 87turbotarga
- Start date
did you clear the stored codes in the ecu? if you dont clear them the light wont go off.
but only way to disable it is pull the cluster out, and remove the bulb.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/232/photo0249v.jpg/
but only way to disable it is pull the cluster out, and remove the bulb.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/232/photo0249v.jpg/
Clear your codes first. Drive around and see if it comes back. If so:
Then you're doing the rewire wrong, one or both knock sensors are dead, or your ECU is fried. If you've got code 52, your timing is retarded and as a side effect, you're running rich. Your car won't make any decent power, and will just be overall crap to drive. It's literally a night and day difference.
Pull the ECU connector with the knock sensor wires. Grab your DVOM, set it on continuity check. Touch one probe to the pin in the wire connector, the other probe to a good ground. You should NOT get any tone at all. Do that for both knock sensor wires. Remember, no tone.
Now do it again and have someone wriggle the wiring harness around under the hood. Verify that neither knock sensor is broken, and that each is working properly (oscilloscope). Verify that the ground wire integrated in the knock sensor circuit is good and trouble free.
It can only be a few things:
-Wiring
-Knock sensor(s)
-ECU
Then you're doing the rewire wrong, one or both knock sensors are dead, or your ECU is fried. If you've got code 52, your timing is retarded and as a side effect, you're running rich. Your car won't make any decent power, and will just be overall crap to drive. It's literally a night and day difference.
Pull the ECU connector with the knock sensor wires. Grab your DVOM, set it on continuity check. Touch one probe to the pin in the wire connector, the other probe to a good ground. You should NOT get any tone at all. Do that for both knock sensor wires. Remember, no tone.
Now do it again and have someone wriggle the wiring harness around under the hood. Verify that neither knock sensor is broken, and that each is working properly (oscilloscope). Verify that the ground wire integrated in the knock sensor circuit is good and trouble free.
It can only be a few things:
-Wiring
-Knock sensor(s)
-ECU
You disable the light by taking out the bulb. Just don't expect the car to drive right, or pass any sort of inspection, let alone a strict one like IM240.
I rewired both knock sensors when i first got the car cause it had a code 52, and i mustve done it right cause the code went off and never came on for 6 months and i drove it everyday, then all of a sudden it came back on again, if i clear the codes it stays off for about 2 minutes into driving then pops back on. It drives like crap because it just hits fuel cut and retards my timing so its soooo slooow, makes me wanna poke my eyes out
---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ----------
I dont care that the actual light is on, the light doesnt bother me, its the fact that it hits fuel cut and retards my timing cause of the code 52, is there a way to stop that?
---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------
I dont care that the actual light is on, the light doesnt bother me, its the fact that it hits fuel cut and retards my timing cause of the code 52, is there a way to stop that?
---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:39 PM ----------
I dont care that the actual light is on, the light doesnt bother me, its the fact that it hits fuel cut and retards my timing cause of the code 52, is there a way to stop that?
---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------
I dont care that the actual light is on, the light doesnt bother me, its the fact that it hits fuel cut and retards my timing cause of the code 52, is there a way to stop that?
Ill check it with the voltmeter thank you for that advice. It is possible that both of the knock sensors i ordered are bad, My lucks that bad i wouldnt be suprised lol
Yes it is possible. Something in the circuit is bad.
Did you ground only 1 side of the shielding.
Only way to get rid of the light is to fix it.
Did you ground only 1 side of the shielding.
Only way to get rid of the light is to fix it.
I grounded only the sensor side of the shielding. and it worked for 6 months, i guess it has to be the sensors cause nothing on the wiring has changed. unless its my ECU
Well... you *could* put electrical tape over the CEL. It's no more of a hack than removing the bulb.hvyman;1718688 said:
Personally, I think that putting up with the 'drives like 50 pounds of monkey shit in a 25 pound bag' effect would be significantly worse than the flashing light, but who knows? Maybe that's just me.
There is another option eliminate the ecu all together, who need fancy stuff like timing advance anyways right.:sarcasm:
jetjock;1718980 said:
With a lot of newer cars being multiplexed, do you suppose they use a twisted pair to account for lies? Or have you seen documenation that says so for certain. I haven't touched hardly any newer cars.
Yep. The J1939 network. They (Navistar) were using the twisted pair so the control unit can recognize the unwanted induction. I understand what you are saying, and wasn't thinking about the signal generation.