Didn't know whether to take this seriously or laugh

[huntin5L]

Well...i checked to see if my car threw any codes at me. Man is that awesome and easy to check.. Sure enough it did. I didn't know whether or not to take this seriously or laugh, which i did. Anywho, the error i got was 34.
Turbocharger pressure..

It states the trouble area is:
Turbocharger
AFM
ECU
INTERCOOLER SYSTEM

My question is will you be getting this error if you up the boost, in my case i am running 10lbs. It
seems like it slugs off at high rpm. Figured something was wrong. So, do you any of you guys get this error. I hope i wasn't suppose to have an upgraded ecu or something to up the boost to 10 lbs. Let me know, thanks Bob.

 

[group a supra]

may slug of at top end if you are running standard exhaust system with cat take the cat of new animal altogether

 

[huntin5L]

yeah, i have stock cat, but i am getting that code so i don't think its from the exhaust, also do you need the ecu to get
it retuned so you can run that kind of boost. And if you run more boost that means everybody must get this code or maybe not that is my question

 

[Boostedstr8six]

"fuel cut" ie ignition cut.

 

[chevyeater]

34 is the code that sets when you hit the overboost fuel cutoff. Step one is to check carefully for boost leaks as this will cause you to hit the cutoff sooner than you should. After you have repaired any leaks, you shouldn't hit the cut @ 10 psi (on the stock turbo? I'm assuming). The code would still be there if you just hit the cut one time while setting the boost level or something as well, until the code is cleared by resetting the ecu.

The fuel cut is a fairly violent occurence, it wouldn't be described as "slugging off" by most and is accompanied by a blink of the check engine light, when it happens.

 

[91suprat]

The fuel cut is a fairly violent occurence, it wouldn't be described as "slugging off" by most and is accompanied by a blink of the check engine light, when it happens.

yeah it is not a subtle thing at all, you would defineately know if you hit fuel cut.

 

[huntin5L]

oh yes i have hit fuel cut, the check engine light pops on once, and wham car just cuts out.

 

[huntin5L]

so the slugging off at the top end must be from a boost leak then i guess. My boost controller is set at 10 but does tend to fluctuate at wot. There must be a leak somewhere, you think?

 

[huntin5L]

weird thing is when i did hit the fuel cut, it was always when my car was below operating temp. I tested that theory already. I heard some people talking about how the profec b2 won't give you full boost until your car is warmed up.

 

[huntin5L]

also, so you are saying the error code 34 is from hitting fuel cut...What does that do once you get that error. Does it put the ecu in a different mode. Meaning if im trying to run 10lbs it will limit that until i reset the ecu.

 

[huntin5L]

i checked for air leaks, my neighbor had a bright idea of taking carb cleaner and spraying it on the intercooler and vaccum lines by the connections to see if the motor would rev up...Kind of an easy way to tell if you have a leak in your system. But i found nothing. I always new something was up with the car, cause my old mans twin turbo screeeams to redline and mine just doesn't throw me in my seat like the z does.

 

[Jonnymkiii]

I think it's a leak... take off the intercooling piping fender elbow. This POS is just two pieces of plastic glued together. I bet if you try to pull it apart you'll find it came apart somewhere on the seam. I think what is happening is that at no to low boost, there is no vacuum leak. When the higher boost kicks in, the air is being forced out of a break in the seam of that elbow. I blew two of those up when I first started getting into the higher boosts. I finally make a solid elbow, that fixed it.

 

[silver88turbo]

The stock turbo at 10psi with stock exhaust will not pull very hard up top. The Z should feel faster throughout the whole powerband....

 

[huntin5L]

where is this fender elbow piping at johnny? Im gonna work on this today

 

[huntin5L]

i am assiming it is the plastic piece that usually is usually replaced with blow off valve and metal pipe.

 

[Jonnymkiii]

Looking at the engine, it's on the left hand side where the intercooler piping comes through the fender. You have to take the piping that extends from there to the throttle body off. Getting the elbow off can be a little tricky... if I remember correctly, you can pull it a bit out of the fender and then unscrew the clamp holding it on. Good luck and I hope that's your problem.

 

[huntin5L]

yeah i had the most difficult time trying to get that pipe out of the fender. I have no idea how that comes out. I tried just about everything. Any ideas.

 

[Jonnymkiii]

You might be able to take out the wheel well splash guard and push the tubing inside the fender out into the engine bay to the point you can loosen the hose clap. It's been several years since I've done this, so my memory is sketchy.


Anyone else have any suggestions?

 

[Dirgle]

You're most likely hitting fuel cut before the car warms up because the air entering the intake is denser when the car is cool. The denser air allows you to hit fuel cut sooner. 10 PSI still seems a bit early, though not impossible if your at sea level. However if your not at sea level you most likely have a boost leak. What kind of BOV are you running? Is it the stock recirculation valve or is it an aftermarket unit vented to the atmosphere. If it’s an aftermarket unit it may not be fully closed under boost. As for needing an upgraded ECU to run more boost. The answer is no, it's not needed. Primarily because it's cost prohibitive, and doesn’t solve the real issue, the stock fuel system. The stock ECU is amazingly adaptive, and very robust, only limited by fuel cut. And there has been a safe and cheap (cheaper than an upgraded or full standalone ECU) workaround for fuel cut known as the Lexus/550's. Search for it there is tons of info on it

 

[Idealsupra]

You're most likely hitting fuel cut before the car warms up because the air entering the intake is denser when the car is cool. The denser air allows you to hit fuel cut sooner. 10 PSI still seems a bit early, though not impossible if your at sea level. However if your not at sea level you most likely have a boost leak. What kind of BOV are you running? Is it the stock recirculation valve or is it an aftermarket unit vented to the atmosphere. If it’s an aftermarket unit it may not be fully closed under boost. As for needing an upgraded ECU to run more boost. The answer is no, it's not needed. Primarily because it's cost prohibitive, and doesn’t solve the real issue, the stock fuel system. The stock ECU is amazingly adaptive, and very robust, only limited by fuel cut. And there has been a safe and cheap (cheaper than an upgraded or full standalone ECU) workaround for fuel cut known as the Lexus/550's. Search for it there is tons of info on it

this is RELATIVELY true...with the exception that the stock ECU is a nazi with timing with boost higher then 12psi...it just constantly runs the 12psi timing map and doesnt adapt...grrr... but i digress