Cylinder head retorque

BigKO

Member
Nov 5, 2008
326
0
16
Riverside
Hey guys, just got done with a BHG fix/rebuild, and have a question about the re torque. I did the initial torque in the proper order according to the tsrm, and with the specs supplied with the ARP head studs. I know i need to re torque after 5 complete heat cycles on a stone cold motor, but I am just looking for a brief outline on the exact process...
my current assumptions are that i need to re torque, in the tsrm order .When re torquing i should crack them loose and then tighten down in several passes until at the correct torque setting, one at a time. Is this correct? Any recommendations? Tips? Tricks? All help is much appreciated. I have researched this and that is how i know the above info, but if I am missing something please let me know :naughty:
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
2,972
0
36
Phoenix
www.google.com
You are correct, but when they say crack them loose, that means turn them counter clockwise until you hear it snap/less than 1/4 turn. Do one at a time like that in the TIGHTENING order (Starting in the middle going out). (Ex: crack number 1 center bolt loose less than 1/4 turn, torque back to original torque value, move on to number two.)
 

BigKO

Member
Nov 5, 2008
326
0
16
Riverside
Alrighty thats what I wanted to hear, lol and yeah thanks for the detailed description on how to loosen the stud :biglaugh: lol but it was informative...
Just wanted to make sure that I didnt leave anything out and you covered it clearly so thanks. Head re torque coming up this weekend. SO, hopefully all goes well.
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
2,972
0
36
Phoenix
www.google.com
Haha didnt mean to tell it to you like you don't know anything, but sometimes when explaining things over the internet its easy to say something and interpret it in different ways, not to mention it will help others if they search for the topic. Good luck!
 

rayall01

New Member
Oct 10, 2008
901
0
0
67
Westfield, ma
I've seen it posted on here, that when retorqueing, after cracking the bolt, (or nut), you should torque at least 5 ft lbs higher than previously, to get a more accurate torque. Seems reasonable to me, and that's the way I'm going to do it. Can't remember who posted it though.
 

rayall01

New Member
Oct 10, 2008
901
0
0
67
Westfield, ma
IJ.;1312304 said:
Was probably me ;)
(or someone quoting me)

Good to see this info being passed along accurately guys thanks it makes my time here somewhat worthwhile.

You're probably right. And you're welcome.:icon_bigg