Nick M;1229985 said:
I just mean the diagnostics get reset. Someone was asking about that.
Oh and thanks for the link, that is really good info.
Cranks fine, won't start, fuel injectors not firing (?)
- Thread starter Brazle
- Start date
I just mean the diagnostics get reset. Someone was asking about that.
Oh and thanks for the link, that is really good info.
As for the IGf question, what if the IGf wire in the harness is not intact, this could interrupt the signal from the igniter to the ECU. But you're saying if the ECU doesn't see the IGf signal, it will set a code 14? Hmm, ok.
I didn't even bother to check the 12V @ STA since it is cranking just fine. But since you mentioned it, it made me remember that I believe the wire to the starter is not stock and I think the PO put it in their because he was having some starter/ignition problems. So if some part if the ignition is sending the signal to the starter and bypassing the ECU, could that cause the injectors not to fire. I will test the STA terminal at the ECU, but I am guessing it will not show 12V since the starter circuitry appears to be bypassed. What effects would this have? Could the car still start in this condition? Because it used to start OK, though not great, like this. A lot of times, it would huff and puff and take quite a few cranks to start.
Last question: EFI-23 and on explains the diagnosis system, but you mention the FP terminal would show voltage when there the fuel pump is on. Is there a page in the TSRM that explains the function of each of the terminals in the Diagnosis box?
The fuel pump is working fine, I have checked this by loosening one of the connections and seeing fuel spray out when I cranked it. The problem is still mainly that the injectors don't appear to be firing.
I didn't even bother to check the 12V @ STA since it is cranking just fine. But since you mentioned it, it made me remember that I believe the wire to the starter is not stock and I think the PO put it in their because he was having some starter/ignition problems. So if some part if the ignition is sending the signal to the starter and bypassing the ECU, could that cause the injectors not to fire. I will test the STA terminal at the ECU, but I am guessing it will not show 12V since the starter circuitry appears to be bypassed. What effects would this have? Could the car still start in this condition? Because it used to start OK, though not great, like this. A lot of times, it would huff and puff and take quite a few cranks to start.
Last question: EFI-23 and on explains the diagnosis system, but you mention the FP terminal would show voltage when there the fuel pump is on. Is there a page in the TSRM that explains the function of each of the terminals in the Diagnosis box?
The fuel pump is working fine, I have checked this by loosening one of the connections and seeing fuel spray out when I cranked it. The problem is still mainly that the injectors don't appear to be firing.
No STA signal at the ECU will make for hard starts cold, but it should eventually get going, unless the CSI was also dead, in which case it might be a near impossible start if anything but a warm day.
The reason STA is important is that it will initiate an asynchronous firing of all injectors, and you should see that on the noid light.
During cranking the fuel pump is going to be energized by the same circuit as the STA signal (via the circuit opening relay), so if you have verified fuel pressure during cranking then at least some part of the STA circuit is functioning.
After cranking, the ECU grounds the COR using its FC output to keep the fuel pump running. If the engine starts while cranking and dies after releasing the key then either the COR or the FC wiring could be bad.
By the way, have you disconnected the injector wires from the ECU connector and tried grounding them (one of #10, #20, #30) to confirm that the injector wiring is functional and your noid like works?
The reason STA is important is that it will initiate an asynchronous firing of all injectors, and you should see that on the noid light.
During cranking the fuel pump is going to be energized by the same circuit as the STA signal (via the circuit opening relay), so if you have verified fuel pressure during cranking then at least some part of the STA circuit is functioning.
After cranking, the ECU grounds the COR using its FC output to keep the fuel pump running. If the engine starts while cranking and dies after releasing the key then either the COR or the FC wiring could be bad.
By the way, have you disconnected the injector wires from the ECU connector and tried grounding them (one of #10, #20, #30) to confirm that the injector wiring is functional and your noid like works?
Brazle;1230470 said:
Erasing the stored codes and KAM, doesn't fix a car. If you have a hard fault, it will come back when you try to restart.
One thing I don't think 3P mentioned, if you have 14, and don't have the IGf, you will not get injection.
Toyota doesn't want the car to burn to the ground. It can and does happen.
Toyota doesn't want the car to burn to the ground. It can and does happen.
This might sound crazy but it won't hurt anything. Undo the banjo bolt on your fuel rail and stick a hose in there (as tight fit as possible), run that hose into a bucket and then try cranking your engine over a few times.
I got a code 14 a while back and my engine would crank and even breifly go up a few 100 rpms but never start. I accidently shot some fuel out of my rail when i tried to hook up a pressure gauge and after tightening the bolt back down the engine started perfectly, and ran for about a week before it left me on the side of the road with the same exact problem again, at least shooting fuel out of the rail fixed it that time as well.
I have not solved the real issue yet. Something in the fuel lines maybe?
I got a code 14 a while back and my engine would crank and even breifly go up a few 100 rpms but never start. I accidently shot some fuel out of my rail when i tried to hook up a pressure gauge and after tightening the bolt back down the engine started perfectly, and ran for about a week before it left me on the side of the road with the same exact problem again, at least shooting fuel out of the rail fixed it that time as well.
I have not solved the real issue yet. Something in the fuel lines maybe?
Code 14 is an ignition problem. Can't see how the fuel rail could do anything. I would make sure the ignitor is well grounded (remove it and clean the mounting pieces of any corrosion or do the ignitor ground mod). Also check the wiring harness for any broken/hanging by a thread/intermittent connectors and wires. Jiggle the wires to check for internal damage.
Have loosened the banjo bolt several times to test for fuel. No effect.
There are no codes at the moment, it just doesn't start.
"By the way, have you disconnected the injector wires from the ECU connector and tried grounding them (one of #10, #20, #30) to confirm that the injector wiring is functional and your noid like works? " - 3p
I hadn't thought of that, I will try it. Just bought a set of noid lights on ebay so I don't have to keep renting them from O'Reilly's.
I did check the STA Voltage though, and when I crank it goes to 10.5-10.8 Volts. Not 12 Volts, but that sounds about right. Should it be higher? I know the drain on the battery from the starter can cause a 1 Volt drop sometimes, so this voltage sounds about right for the conditions.
Where would you guys suggest looking for a good used ECU? Ebay seems to have them for $75-300. Does that sound right?
There are no codes at the moment, it just doesn't start.
"By the way, have you disconnected the injector wires from the ECU connector and tried grounding them (one of #10, #20, #30) to confirm that the injector wiring is functional and your noid like works? " - 3p
I hadn't thought of that, I will try it. Just bought a set of noid lights on ebay so I don't have to keep renting them from O'Reilly's.
I did check the STA Voltage though, and when I crank it goes to 10.5-10.8 Volts. Not 12 Volts, but that sounds about right. Should it be higher? I know the drain on the battery from the starter can cause a 1 Volt drop sometimes, so this voltage sounds about right for the conditions.
Where would you guys suggest looking for a good used ECU? Ebay seems to have them for $75-300. Does that sound right?
Hey, i Just recently got a Mk3 and I have come to a conclusion that its having the same problem as you. Its cranks fine, sometimes there is combustion and seems like the car is gonna turn over, and then stops... There is fuel coming out of the Fuel pump; fuel sprays out when I open it, everything seems to be wired up correctly. The Fuel injectors seems like it isn't firing or the fuel is not getting sent in the injectors. I have yet to find time to take off the fuel injectors, but have come to a conclusion that it is the fuel injectors, Anyone know what i should do? PLEASe help me......
The wires that go into your diag plug are probably pushed thru the bottom of the plug the other thing is make sure your putting the wire jumper into the middle of the wire clips inside the diag plug