Crank Pully

[cinderMK3]

Any recommendations on length of pipe for removing the crank pully? I was going to cut down the local flag pole and vault off my roof to break this thing loose.


All joking aside Just doube checking its not a reverse thread. Nothing was was ever mentioned in TSRM or my book. Oil and heat today going to impact again after a heat treatment.
Worse case scenario I'll just wait until engine back in the car and brace flywheel and use a breaker bar and 38 Ft of pipe.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Not reverse thread. I used the handle on my floor jack (3ft?), and slippped it over my 1/2" breaker bar ratchet. Car in 5th gear with wheel chocks behind the wheels. It broke loose extremely easy. Makes me wonder if it was still torqued correctly. I did torque it down myself with a good snap on torque wrench on my last build. It was just too easy taking it off that worried me. Anyway, that should work of you. Let us know how it goes.

Oops, didn't read that the engine is out of the car. You could try and block of wood between your crank and block to keep it from rotating. If you use a long cheater bar be careful that you don't tilt the engine far enough to fall down with the engine stand. Have a friend hold the engine from falling over. If engine is on the ground have him hold it from rolling around. If your assistant is female you have to take pics of her and post them here. You know the rules.

 

[cinderMK3]

excellent, A Good piece of mind thing I appreciate it. I'll hopefully have good news update in a day or two.
Thanks again ^^



EDIT:soon to be entire engine color scheme Flat black baby blue

 

[cinderMK3]

UPDATE: Heat and oil and then we braced crank and It finally gaveway!

The wife was painting the other day, but had a co-worker with me today.
I asked him to take his shirt off and give some sexy poses, but he wasn't really into it....which made me sad ah-hahaha *cough cough*

But super stoked the pully off and can finish the block



EDIT: I should add that I'm not torching the bolt fyi to anyone wondering I prop a 276,000,000,000 candle watt (<--uneducated guess ) shop light next to stuff I want to heat. It gives me a tan if I work to long with it on, so I just use it as my heater. Works great!

 

[Nick M]

 

[3p141592654]

4 foot iron gas pipe worked for me

 

[jetjock]

Using the starter always worked for me...

 

[atmperformance]

Using the starter always worked for me...

but then you're not putting little notches in your pulley

 

[755hp]

Chock the wheels and put your shifter into 5th gear. Get a breaker bar (1/2in at least), a 19mm deep socket (I think thats the size) and a long metal/steel pipe (at least 3ft) that can slide over the breaker bar. Piece it all together and crank away to get the crank bolt off.

Use a torque wrench that goes up to at least 250ft to torque down the crank bolt to 195lbft when you're ready to piece things back together. For example, I got and used a Kobalt clicker type torque wrench (250lbft max) from Lowes to torque down that crank bolt when I replaced my front main seal.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

The wife was painting the other day, but had a co-worker with me today.
I asked him to take his shirt off and give some sexy poses, but he wasn't really into it....which made me sad ah-hahaha *cough cough*

lol, he sucks! Wait, did you say wife... :naughty: j/k not really.
I'm glad it worked out for you. When you put it back together I would install the engine in the car and torque it down to spec with trans in fifth and wheels chocked method.

Starter method works great too for those needing to remove it while it's still in the car.

 

[cinderMK3]

Sounds good I'll torque it down when its back in the car. Thanks again for all the help and tips everyone, I appreciate it!

 

[akito]

This! Literally did this yesterday since my lower crank timing belt pulley guide broke. This and a breaker bar, i did take my impact to it a few times but no luck. I think the impact helped tho, also tried slipping the floor jack handle but the breaker bar broke it loose.

Good luck!