correcting toe and camber after lowering

[tsuper92]

i need to do some work to my nephew's car,suspension wise.i live in good old new england and weather isn't nice to are car's.even though the car has 69,xxx mile's and never driven in snow,the cam bolt's are frozen.i have 4 new spare cam bolt's,but don't think they'll have enough adjustment to get the wheel's straight again.

now i've allready been through this with my car.i ended up just buying the a1 traction,toe, and camber arm's.the rear of my car is set perfect now with nice even tire wear.i just want to avoid spending to much of his money(in school 19 year old).

i was thinking,maybe the new cam bolt's with the a1 toe arm's.he also need's to replace the rear tire's very soon.the car will be coming off the road for winter and these part's could be a christmas present.keep in mind,i'm the person doing all the work

anybody been there done that or have any input.

a pic of my subframe and the part's used.the black one's are the toe arm's.

 

[tissimo]

dont put it on the ground and you'll be fine, unless the bushings are shot.

 

[shaeff]

How are the steel tabs on the subframe that are on either side of the cam bolts? If they're bent outward (which is very, very common) then you run out of adjustment quickly. Bend them straight and run a bead of weld behind them. That will prevent them from pushing out again, and allow you to get the car back into spec. Ask me how I know.

 

[tsuper92]

i welded my subframe tabs while it was out.maybe i can have someone weld this car,before i take it appart.i'm afraid the cam bolt's are just froven in the bushing sleeve. just like mine were.

 

[tissimo]

I've never had a problem with the tabs bending back after just straightening them out. No need for a weld behind them imo. This is on several cars, not just one or two.

With that low of miles and not being driven in the winter much if ever you should be ok. If you're worried about it that much just a week before you work on it every day spray em down with penetrating oil and get it nice and soaked. I've only had issues with the rear lower arm by the exhaust (Left side). Half of them have been frozen and the other half are ok.

 

[quake]

just did this full job on my mkiii. Weld behind the tabs as the adjusting cams will rust eventually, don't bother if you are using adjustable arms. Lube everything... all suframe bushings, all bolts involved, and sleeves with the proper lube as not to hear any annoying squeaks afterward. Toe settings can be stock, camber will depend on driving style 1-1.2 neg for camber in the rear will be ok. This will handle well and give good traction.

 

[shaeff]

Most of mine were frozen. The front lowers were the only ones I had to cut out. The rest I got out with the subframe on the ground and an air hammer. AND all the tabs were bent out as well.

 

[quake]

best way is to to cut the head and nut off the cam bolt, then pry it out with a good pry bar. At this point the bushing is shot so remove it and the sleeve and install the energy suspension kit.

 

[tsuper92]

I've never had a problem with the tabs bending back after just straightening them out. No need for a weld behind them imo. This is on several cars, not just one or two.

With that low of miles and not being driven in the winter much if ever you should be ok. If you're worried about it that much just a week before you work on it every day spray em down with penetrating oil and get it nice and soaked. I've only had issues with the rear lower arm by the exhaust (Left side). Half of them have been frozen and the other half are ok.

the 92 you got here in mass didn't have frozen cam bolt's?

so everybody here think's there is enough adjustment in the suspension after the car is lowered?

 

[IJ.]

I had to shorten the lower transverse arms 15mm each to get the cams back in the middle of their adjustment range with a 2.5" drop in the rear.

 

[hvyman]

i droped my old car on h&r's roughly 1.5-2in and the tabs bent but if you bend them back and weld them you will be able to adjust them.

 

[tsuper92]

I had to shorten the lower transverse arms 15mm each to get the cams back in the middle of their adjustment range with a 2.5" drop in the rear.

do you mean both lower arm's on each side or one in particular,not sure which is called transverse arm.i would like to get them going nice and straight.it's just killing tire's now and doesn't have much traction

 

[tsuper92]

i droped my old car on h&r's roughly 1.5-2in and the tabs bent but if you bend them back and weld them you will be able to adjust them.

i'm not sure which spring's the car has,but would like to have enough adjustment.do you have all the stock arm's? are the two rear wheel's set perfect?

 

[IJ.]

do you mean both lower arm's on each side or one in particular,not sure which is called transverse arm.i would like to get them going nice and straight.it's just killing tire's now and doesn't have much traction

 

[hvyman]

yea and im on eibachs now and have -1.0 camber rear both sides and eibachs drop the car about 1-1.5 inches.

 

[tsuper92]

thanks for the input.i'll probably just get both a1 lower arm's for his car.i'll most likely be torching them out anyway's.