correct way to run an aftermarket bov

89supra7mgte

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Sep 20, 2009
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I cant find the thread that depicts how to correctly route or an aftermarket bov? I did read that it will cause a leak run rich and so on just wanna get the correct info if possible i just wann make sure iam not gonna do more damage than good. The only reason why i am using one is cause the oe style was bad and this setup was FREE.

The oe runs from accordion to 3000 pipe with vacuum line from tb correct? Thus keeping the afm reading correctly? Well on the new one which is located on the ic pipe to 3000 pipe when it opens it is in a way creating a vacuum leak correct or am i just ass backwards? thanks for the info
 

Nghty89

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Mar 26, 2008
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Replacing the stock bypass valve with an atmospheric BOV, you do not create any leaks as long as the BOV is tightened correctly but is still loose enough to react quickly to a change in boost.
It still works the same as any BOV, it just creates a rich condition because pre-metered air is being let out, leaving extra fuel in the system. Some people prefer this though because a rich condition is better than a lean condition :naughty: Although, it can cause you to stall if you sit still and come down from revving the motor (this does not happen during normal driving though, only when you rev while sitting still).
 

89supra7mgte

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now can an oe bov cause the same condition? as far stalling when sitting still if it is bad? How exactly does the oe work? refresh my memory please?
 

Nghty89

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The original bypass valve allows the air that is being released when you let off the throttle to be funneled back to the front of the turbo. Pulling it off so that it vents to the atmosphere will do the same thing as an aftermarket BOV. The stall is only because of the extremely rich condition. Too much fuel, not enough air because you let the stuff previously metered by the intake to escape. It will only cause damage if you let it happen too often... so don't rev it and just let it drop off, bring it down slow and it'll be fine.
 

RazoE

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Jun 13, 2006
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just run a recirculating tip, most aftermarket BOV's come with an adapter to re-reroute the metered, compressed air..

My 89 will stall if I let off a bunch of metered air and clutch in, or go into neutral for too long...
 

gofastgeorge

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Jan 24, 2008
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To correct an over-rich condition caused by an open dump BOV,
you can use either an HKS EIDS (little black box that wires into your ECU, about $75 used)
or
An APEX Super AFC, which has the same function, plus gives you tuning ability at both high, and low throttle settings.

The S-AFC provides way more bang for the buck.
 

89supra7mgte

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Sep 20, 2009
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Ok well soon as i get itback together i will see what is going on with it. I had that problem before, it would idle good, barely touch throttle and die, obviously i dont think that the oe bypass was casuing that being that i was not in boost? it would also die while driving at any speed when letting up throttle. anyways ill get it togwether and see how it does now
 

gaboonviper85

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Jan 13, 2008
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It still works the same as any BOV, it just creates a rich condition because pre-metered air is being let out

no....it's "post metered" not "pre"!

An APEX Super AFC, which has the same function, plus gives you tuning ability at both high, and low throttle settings.

The S-AFC provides way more bang for the buck.

none of these will make any difference!!


Come on guys pull your shit together! You'll need too run maft system or speed density inorder too lose the rich condition upon blow off....
 

89supra7mgte

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Sep 20, 2009
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how does it work better, the bosch 110? So the rich run on blow off is just gonna be something to deal along with the occasional smoke? When its all back together ill know a little bit more about what i am working with but the more info the better.

Took sometime but i wanted to do some more research on the bov setup. When i run the vac line which port should i hook up to? MY tb only has one on top, which has vacuum upon throttle, whereas the intake mani where the boost sensor/cruis attach has vac at idle. obviously i will need to blow off the psi right after coming off load correct? IE: wot----full boost-----clutch(or let off pedal)---blow off. is this right please correct me if i am wrong just wanna make sure its properly done
 
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89supra7mgte

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Sep 20, 2009
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neither its an atmosphere dump very similar to the hks one i am not exactly what model it is, it was given to me. bolted on the ic pipe to 3000 pipe, has and adjust screw/nut (which i will need help adjusting when all setup right) and one vac line
 

Heavy D

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Jun 3, 2009
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yea i was getting the same problem untill i put my old OE BOV back on, if i drive and let it roll in neutral it will shut off, so the only way to fix this is by getting a maft pro to fix this? or a SAFC?
 

Hmong_1G

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Dec 31, 2008
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Speed density, MAFT, Standalone. The SAFC will not solve the problem. The AFM will still read unmeter air. Best way to fix this without digging out your wallet,bank account,sell some supra parts is to reroute back into the intake system.
 

RazoE

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Heavy D;1436581 said:
yea i was getting the same problem untill i put my old OE BOV back on, if i drive and let it roll in neutral it will shut off, so the only way to fix this is by getting a maft pro to fix this? or a SAFC?


or do what I do and down-shift and leave it in gear until you use up all the compressed air, then clutch in, usually around 1500 rpms...
 

Heavy D

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thats what i do when i had the bov, when you get a MAFT do you have to get the speed density? or thats just a better upgrade to include with it
 

89supra7mgte

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Sep 20, 2009
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Well being that the car isnt finished yet and i am out of funds for maft or any other tuner for the time being, i think ill be downshifting more frequent, when out driving. as for now i got the time its snowing here and for the time invested in the car i would prefer not to wreck it.

btw which port should i use for the bov? tb or manifold?