correct cam timing, second opinion please *pics*

[jdub]

Excellent...good to hear it's running with no issues

BTW - the 7M is a non-interference motor...it's not possible to get the "tink" of valve to piston contact

 

[grimreaper]

good to know , so what will happen with to much advance or retard of the exhaust or intake cam?

 

[Poodles]

Run like crap...or not at all.

It looks fine from what I can see, you have to rotate the crank 2 full revolutions then check the marks again by the TSRM to make sure everything is lined up properly...

 

[grimreaper]

shes squared up, did that a few times actually. i think its safe to say this jobs a wrap. thanks guys, i dont feel so lonely knowing there are others out there as anal as i am about the supra...

maybe this thread will benefit others in the future then so they know what the cams are supposed to look like in relation to the crank, i mean damn, theres freaking pics!

 

[jdub]

Don't forget to re-tension the belt after 500 miles or so...easy to do.
Make sure the idler pulley is not over torqued (spec 36 ft/lbs) either...it can actually pull the #1 cylinder wall forward a couple thou if it is.

You have to be anal working on this engine...it has a bad habit of turning around and biting you if you aren't
Nice job!

 

[Poodles]

Never retensioned my belt as it's not in the manual :dunno:

 

[jdub]

True, but neither is a head bolt re-torque

All you do is remove the top cover and check deflection on the top and sides of the belt. Any excess and you readjust the idler pulley.
Simple and easy to do. Preventive measure in case the belt stretches...I had a new OEM belt jump a tooth because I didn't do this.

 

[IJ.]

Just in case anyone is interested in how the 3 holes actually work/are meant to work.....

you line up left/left to move the cam that direction by a degree or so and right/right to move it that way.

centre/centre is straight up

The idea here is for small adjustments to allow for resurfacing/belt stretch.

You DON'T use centre/left or right.

 

[grimreaper]

IJ to the rescue to save us from messing with that we do not know.... good info!
those holes are worth 1 degree? or is it gona be something you need to slap a degree wheel on and check to see what it is for that specific engine

jdub ill double check the belt for sure, and damn moving the cylinder wall?! guessing a possible bad hg if it is tqed way over bored?

 

[IJ.]

Even at 36ft/lbs I measured half a thou deflection (I have my blocks bored and honed with it torqued in place)

I trashed a block doing it up too tight it had blowby from day 1

 

[grimreaper]

i wonder over the years how many shops and dealerships have effectively over tightened and warped the cylinder wall....

is that something that happens instantly, after the first heat cycle or over the next few hundred miles?

 

[IJ.]

Happens as you tighten

I suspect there's an elastic region where it will relax and pull back when undone but once you exceed that it's there for good.

Here's one I prepared earlier....

[thumb]http://ij.supramania.com/36ftlbs.jpg[/thumb]

 

[grimreaper]

:kloguck: