Cooling issue

[AJ'S 88NA]

I Heard that you dont have to re-torque ARP head studs also. thats why i got them because the way that my new cams are made it is impossible to put the head bolts into to 2 of the holes(the second 2 from the front if i remember right) with out taking out the cams. that means to do a re-torque after heat cycles i would essentially have to tear it down to the head twice :aigo:. which im not to thrilled about but will do if absolutely necessary.

Don't have to take out the cams for studs. Just need a thin wall deep socket and turn the cams a little.

 

[jgcable]

I Heard that you dont have to re-torque ARP head studs also. thats why i got them because the way that my new cams are made it is impossible to put the head bolts into to 2 of the holes(the second 2 from the front if i remember right) with out taking out the cams. that means to do a re-torque after heat cycles i would essentially have to tear it down to the head twice :aigo:. which im not to thrilled about but will do if absolutely necessary.

I would do a search on thir forum or post the question in a new thread.

 

[buckshotglass]

When I retorqued my head I found that a few of the bolts were almost 20 ft/lbs less.

The only way you could know that is if you didn't crack each one before you retightened it, which you should have.

 

[jetjock]

There are several explanations for the perceived loss of preload he observed and there's nothing that says his gasket would have failed if he'd done nothing. I realize it flies in the face of common wisdom here (which is why I rarely get involved) but retorque also flies in the face of long established engineering principles regarding clamped joints (including gasketed ones) and fasteners. If the initial torquing of the joint/fastener was done correctly (a big if) there's no need for it. Talk to any competent ME. Your car though. If it makes you feel better go for it...