IJ. said:
So its about $50 for a test kit.
i know it still means its a used motor, was just puttin that in so it would make more sense that its supposed to have a low-er mileage engine.
Coolant Spewing out of Overflow Tank
- Thread starter steven89
- Start date
So its about $50 for a test kit.
i know it still means its a used motor, was just puttin that in so it would make more sense that its supposed to have a low-er mileage engine.
Well it's
Item#: BK 7001006
Price: $47.49
tax and shipping not included
So I guess depending on if you pay tax or shipping it's "about $50" ........
Don't buy into the low milage JDM BULLSHIT low milage means very little compared to service history and how it's been maintained!
I'd rather have a 200,000 mile motor that's been looked after than a 30,000 one that hasn't.
Item#: BK 7001006
Price: $47.49
tax and shipping not included
So I guess depending on if you pay tax or shipping it's "about $50" ........
Don't buy into the low milage JDM BULLSHIT low milage means very little compared to service history and how it's been maintained!
I'd rather have a 200,000 mile motor that's been looked after than a 30,000 one that hasn't.
Ian, where the big fork picture when we need it? 
Agreed. The JDM mill should've been overhauled before it was installed.
By the tester at Napa or online. Or search for the other one: UVIEW 560000. Imho it's a better mouse trap but either will do.
Agreed. The JDM mill should've been overhauled before it was installed.
By the tester at Napa or online. Or search for the other one: UVIEW 560000. Imho it's a better mouse trap but either will do.
steven89 said:
Any answers to this?
Ill try to get a test kit as soon as i can. For now i guess ill drive my jeep to school. Should i try to retorque my head bolts? or is it not worth it at this point?
It's about the same or a bit less depending on where you get it. Around $47-48 USD. Course, you can get raped if you're not careful. I like it because it's designed for better sensitivity. Got that nifty case too
edit: oops, were talking about two different things. I've no experience with that rig nor with the cheapies where you look for bubbles. Looks like that thing is for external leaks but I dunno. I only use UV for AC work.
Steven, it's gonna cost more because the block will need work. Search. It's been beaten to death. A retorque is a shot in the dark. Lol, you can always go this route but I wouldn't recommend it: http://tinyurl.com/odorz
edit: oops, were talking about two different things. I've no experience with that rig nor with the cheapies where you look for bubbles. Looks like that thing is for external leaks but I dunno. I only use UV for AC work.
Steven, it's gonna cost more because the block will need work. Search. It's been beaten to death. A retorque is a shot in the dark. Lol, you can always go this route but I wouldn't recommend it: http://tinyurl.com/odorz
Steven: A retorque is worth a try but don't get your hopes up!
DO NOT drive or run the motor
Biggest component in doing a MHG is the prep work if you don't do it rights it's a waste of time.
JJ: See my new link?
(found that fork as well)
DO NOT drive or run the motor
Biggest component in doing a MHG is the prep work if you don't do it rights it's a waste of time.
JJ: See my new link?
(found that fork as well)
IJ. said:Steven: A re torque is worth a try but don't get your hopes up!
DO NOT drive or run the motor
Biggest component in doing a MHG is the prep work if you don't do it rights it's a waste of time.
JJ: See my new link?
(found that fork as well)
For now im gonna assume it has a BHG, gonna be driving jeep now. Wow this sucks, had car for 6 days and already signs of BHG. Now i just need to start planning out what the different parts cost and etc. Still gonna test exhaust/coolant to make sure though.
Edit - Around how much does the machine shop part of prepping a block cost?
Varies from not much to a whole lot it's a bit like asking "how long is a piece of string"
Generally you get what you pay for so try and find a shop that knows the 7M!
Generally you get what you pay for so try and find a shop that knows the 7M!
According to everyone, it is most likely a BHG. Whatever you do, DO NOT drive it at all! The more you drive it, the more damage is possible. Dont get antsy. It will be worth the time. I say that you go with a MHG with ARP studs and be set. In case you have not seen it, here ya go...http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29335
Good Luck
Good Luck
steven89 said:
Dude when/if it blows were gonna get this shit done. Do you really think you need a MHG with only 9lbs of boost you wanna run though?
WHen it goes you know Ill be there to help you fix this shit asap. I think we should go OEM HG with ARP Studs, make sure everything is flat and call it.
Mine is still runnin hard and strong dude, you helped me with that, now lets get urs fixed if its that.
starscream5000 said:
yup, kinda following some of the tips and hints on this thread
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40461
phoenix6 said:
Im gona do this in the garage.. Get block/head prepped at a shop though.
White smoke is confirmed now, checked it after school. Gonna try a compression check to make sure.
And if im gonna go at it, id want to go all out or at least make it so its a WAY less of a chance to get BHG or possibly Rod Knock.
Check all your clearances while the block is out and disassembled. Replace the rod bearings, Main bearings, and thrust washers. I suggest using ARP hardware if you can squeeze it into your budget. Have the crank grinded if needed, also freshen the head up while your at it. You want to get the best results of your work, so don't skimp.
87CandyBlueT said:
Oh i wouldnt be skimping. If it needs to be replaced, it will be!
i want this motor to stay in its home as long as it can!I was going to just do the hg. But after reading all these reports of rod knock i have decided to go for a full rebuild. Might even go for a port and polish while it's in bits. It's going to cost a lot but at least i will have peace of mind that it will take 400 bhp.
My mechanic put in a OEM HG OEM studs, been almost 2 years and no heating. Ill help out too if i can, im in houston