Coolant filter pics

jetjock

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Can't tell from the mount but for any spin-on filter flow is supposed to be from the outside in because the outside of the filter (it's larger diameter) provides more surface area for increased capacity. There's also the issue of a bypass valve if the filter has one. However true cooling filters usually don't...
 

GeneStarWindGSW

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I plan to try a setup on my 1jz for coolant filtration :)

Could i use the two lines from the upper coolant pipe for feed and return?
1JZ-fitting-19.jpg



I was planning on getting the small pipes bended down to a round 90 degree angle so then i could run the hoses straight and mount my filter next to my radiator. Sounds alright?
 

prototype_HI

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jetjock and jdub,
if you were born in japan you might've helped build the supra..[better than it is]
btw-jj are you a jet engineer/mechanic?

i thought about a coolant filter a while ago.. imma get on this as soon as i get all my major projects done..
 

jetjock

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Gene: You're not going to bend those nipples and unless there is a divider between them you won't get any flow. There has to be some sort of pressure drop to drive the filter.

Proto: I'm an air carrier pilot, as is Jdub. Prior to that I was a machine design/automation engineer. Along with my partners I work on a couple of owned aircraft (one is turbine powered) under the supervision of licensed mechanics. Not sure but I think Jdub only has cars to work on...which proves he's a lot smarter than I am ;)
 

jdub

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Yep...the romantic lifestyle of an airline pilot :sarcasm:

I began as a mechanical engineer working stress/metallurgy on power plants...specifically nukes. Saw the light and got an accounting degree and a MBA during 15 yrs active duty as an AF fighter pilot...still in the USAFR. I'm way over educated ;)

I too have helped a couple buds work on airplanes, only piston engines though...one was a complete restoration of a T-34. Good thing we had a licensed aircraft mechanic watching us...LOL.
 

GeneStarWindGSW

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Well i didn't think i'd have any issues running it through those two lines. Yea, i'll leave the bending out of it for now. Too much of a hassle.

Well today I went and bought a Napa Coolant Filter.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...=4070&Description=Cooling%20System Filter

Now i'm trying to find the right oil filter adapter/housing that will thread into my filter but i can't seem to find one. (the thread of the coolant filter is 11/16-16 and i can't seem to find anything that will work)
 
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jdub

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jetjock;1011451 said:
I get 'em from fleetfilters.com or filterbarn.com, same places I get most of my filters. They're Donaldson (a premier filter maker not involved in the auto market) but without the supplemental cooling additives. Do not run SCAs in a gas engine.

Napa and Wix also sell equivalents but they can be spendy. Keep in mind such filters have a special stud thread and will require a matching mount. You can get them at trucking places but much better and cheaper is to get a marine fuel/water separator mount from any boat store or ebay. About $20. It's the same thread.

Having said that any oil filter mount and oil filter will work fine. I just happen to like Donaldson quality. Change it once a year or whenever you change coolant.


jdub;1024954 said:
Installed a coolant filter on my Cressida...used a marine fuel/water separator filter head (11/16x16 filter thread), 3/8" Aeroquip socketless hose, and 3/8" NPT barbed fittings. Tapped into the ISCV/TB coolant line in the last leg to the block hard line return and used 3/8" barb to barb splices to mate to the Aeroquip hose. The filter is a Wix 24069...it's a little over an inch shorter than the Donaldson JJ used...I had limited space (as you can see) where the filter head needed to go. Prior to the install, I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid and switched to G-05 HOAT coolant.

Thanks JJ for the help...this was really easy to do with the info you provided ;)


jdub;1175794 said:
Nash - you want to use a coolant filter, but if you insist, an oil filter will work.

Here's the proper head unit with 11/16-16 filter threads and 3/8" NPT inlet/outlet:
http://www.marineexpressusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=50-20901

This will fit the Wix 24069 and 24070 coolant filters available at NAPA...the 24069 is a bit shorter for tighter fits. I buy mine at www.rockauto.com.


The answer is only in 3 different posts in this thread ;)
(try reading the whole thing next time)
 

GeneStarWindGSW

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jdub;1298724 said:
The answer is only in 3 different posts in this thread ;)
(try reading the whole thing next time)

I didn't read everything since it was 9 pgs but i did go through a lot. I guess next time i'll be more thorough, but hey now we got all the references cited now :biglaugh:

Thanks for the help Jdub


As for reference any cooling filters that are 11/16, i found the "Baldwin CFB5000 Coolant Base" Has the whole adapter base with the 11/16 filter thread on it already. What i plan to get now
 
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jetjock

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Fwiw that CFB5000 base is huge. I know, I have one here collecting dust. Couldn't find space for it in my car. Take our advice and get a marine unit. And I'll say it again: if there isn't a delta P between those two nipples you're wasting your time...
 

iwannadie

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Thanks for the thread/info guys. I was just doing some cooling system maintenance and saw this thread and figure might as well. I got my wix housing-24763 and filter-24070 on order. I was gonna go with the marine filter JJ recommends but shipping on that is pricey... Rockauto has the other 2 and good shipping(plus I can buy other car stuff while I'm at it!), so hopefully the wix housing is good enough.

Is there any worry about heat if I mount it on the exhaust side? I was looking at the pics in this thread and thought I would put mine over there in an empty hole I have. I thought about running the hoses back along the firewall and not directly over the exhaust though.
 

jdub

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Changed the coolant filter on my Cressida (5M engine). The filter is a Wix 24069 running Zyrex G-05 coolant. Prior to installing this filter, I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid, neutralized, and flushed thoroughly with water...I changed the original filter in June 08 after thinking about JJ's pics at the beginning of this thread. The flush loosened up a crap load of deposits.

This filter is after that on a clean fill of G-05 in for 1 year. As you can see, the system is very clean. Handles the 115 deg Arizona summer superbly ;)


Cressida Coolant Filter 0709-1.jpg


Cressida Coolant Filter 0709-2.jpg
 

R1GG5

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jdub;1368019 said:
Changed the coolant filter on my Cressida (5M engine). The filter is a Wix 24069 running Zyrex G-05 coolant. Prior to installing this filter, I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid, neutralized, and flushed thoroughly with water...I changed the original filter in June 08 after thinking about JJ's pics at the beginning of this thread. The flush loosened up a crap load of deposits.

This filter is after that on a clean fill of G-05 in for 1 year. As you can see, the system is very clean. Handles the 115 deg Arizona summer superbly ;)


Is there any reason that yours is so much cleaner than JJ's? It seems that you went the same interval between filter changes and it also seems that you run almost the same setup (coolant, flush, distilled water). I know this seems like a stupid question but I am going to throw caution to the wind and prepare to be flamed. My guess would be the wear on the components withing the cooling system. Again, sorry I am just trying to learn.


Thanks,
James
 

jdub

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Not stupid, but read this again:
jdub said:
I flushed the coolant system with oxalic acid, neutralized, and flushed thoroughly with water...I changed the original filter in June 08

This is the 2nd filter. After I saw what the oxalic acid did for JJ's flush, I changed the 1st filter after ~month...there was a lot of crap in it, but I forgot to take pics. Take a look at JJ's filter from the year before:
JJ's 2007 Coolant Filter Pics

As you can see, his looked better than this one...mine darkened up because it was catching up leftover (tiny) debris.
 

R1GG5

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I think I read that you neutrilized with baking soda, doesnt that make one hell of a mess? How are you keeping the foam from getting everywhere? Sorry, last question.
 

jdub

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JJ's previous post should help:

jetjock;1013728 said:
I rarely throw broken things in the trash without tearing into them. I've always felt by doing that I'm throwing away something valuable. It's a curse

Oxalic can be had in Prestone Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner. Two part powered stuff in the yellow can. It can be tough to find at times so these days I buy oxalic in bulk for cheap. Ebay is one source.

For a heavy clean three tablespoons. For a minor clean one. Drain coolant and remove T stat. Refill with water and add oxalic. Run for a total of about one hour. Drain, refill with water and neutralize with one tsp soda ash (bicarbonate) for 30 minutes. Drain, fill with water, drain (better is to remove lower hose and back flush), fill with coolant mix.

I dissolved both in a gallon of water and poured it in. I actually used 2 tsp bicarbonate, but close enough. Afterward, I removed the lower rad hose and flushed with water. I took the Tstat housing off and ran water through the block there. Put everything back on, filled with water and ran again, then drained. Then filled with 50/50 coolant.

Be careful with oxalic acid though, it's not something you want on your hands.
 

Zumtizzle

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jdub;1368857 said:
JJ's previous post should help:



I dissolved both in a gallon of water and poured it in. I actually used 2 tsp bicarbonate, but close enough. Afterward, I removed the lower rad hose and flushed with water. I took the Tstat housing off and ran water through the block there. Put everything back on, filled with water and ran again, then drained. Then filled with 50/50 coolant.

Be careful with oxalic acid though, it's not something you want on your hands.

With a garden hose?