Changed my coolant filter recently. Thought you guys might like to see it, especially any who feel such filtration is a waste of time. This filter was in service one year on a well maintained cooling system.
Coolant filter pics
- Thread starter jetjock
- Start date
I get 'em from fleetfilters.com or filterbarn.com, same places I get most of my filters. They're Donaldson (a premier filter maker not involved in the auto market) but without the supplemental cooling additives. Do not run SCAs in a gas engine.
Napa and Wix also sell equivalents but they can be spendy. Keep in mind such filters have a special stud thread and will require a matching mount. You can get them at trucking places but much better and cheaper is to get a marine fuel/water separator mount from any boat store or ebay. About $20. It's the same thread.
Having said that any oil filter mount and oil filter will work fine. I just happen to like Donaldson quality. Change it once a year or whenever you change coolant.
Napa and Wix also sell equivalents but they can be spendy. Keep in mind such filters have a special stud thread and will require a matching mount. You can get them at trucking places but much better and cheaper is to get a marine fuel/water separator mount from any boat store or ebay. About $20. It's the same thread.
Having said that any oil filter mount and oil filter will work fine. I just happen to like Donaldson quality. Change it once a year or whenever you change coolant.
I run Glysantin:
http://tinyurl.com/4zfb2e
Also known as G-O5. It's an HOAT coolant sold in the US by Ashland Chemical (Vavoline).
http://tinyurl.com/4zfb2e
Also known as G-O5. It's an HOAT coolant sold in the US by Ashland Chemical (Vavoline).
how come this has never been mentioned before? hell... i've NEVER even heard of this... lol
but you can use a regular oil filter on the coolant? (makes sense to me)
but you can use a regular oil filter on the coolant? (makes sense to me)
It has been mentioned before. Several times. Some people even use a toilet paper filter on their coolant. That would seem not to make sense but in reality it works fine. I prefer this filter for coolant but I do use TP on my oil.
Coolant filters are common in the trucking industry but they typically use SCAs. An oil filter will work fine. Use whatever you use on the engine. That way you'll only have to stock one part and will always have a filter.
Coolant filters are common in the trucking industry but they typically use SCAs. An oil filter will work fine. Use whatever you use on the engine. That way you'll only have to stock one part and will always have a filter.
and the only real benefit to this is just keeping the coolant cleaner?
couldnt you like pull the lines up to make it the highest point while you fill through it to bleed all of the air out?
couldnt you like pull the lines up to make it the highest point while you fill through it to bleed all of the air out?
Not a kit but easy to do. SCA means Supplemental Coolant Additives. Time released chemicals stored in the filters used on diesels to make the coolant last a long time. When you have a fleet of trucks with cooling systems measuring in many gallons coolant costs add up.
Rennat: Do you want that stuff circulating around your system? Through your water pump seal, heater core, and radiator? I don't but I confess to being anal about filtration. This and other filters have been on my car 19 years, even before the warranty ran out.
As for Glysantin I've studied coolant and feel it's chemistry is superior to Toyota's, which I haven't used in a long time. Besides, BASF knows a thing or two about chemicals in general and antifreeze in particular. They invented the stuff. Glysantin has a history going back 75 years and has been the factory fill for every Mercedes since day one as well as now being factory installed in all Chryslers and Fords. It's approved for use in every Toyota of this vintage. Don't get me wrong though: Toyota's OAT chemistry without 2-EHA is pretty good. As I said, I'm just anal.
The filter collects crap no matter which coolant I've used. After all it's a tough environment in there. Fwiw the car is only on it's second radiator since new and none of the hoses show OCD. Hell, the lower radiator hose is original. You read that right: 21 years old. Still checks out fine but since I have a new one lying around I really ought to change it one of these days.
Rennat: Do you want that stuff circulating around your system? Through your water pump seal, heater core, and radiator? I don't but I confess to being anal about filtration. This and other filters have been on my car 19 years, even before the warranty ran out.
As for Glysantin I've studied coolant and feel it's chemistry is superior to Toyota's, which I haven't used in a long time. Besides, BASF knows a thing or two about chemicals in general and antifreeze in particular. They invented the stuff. Glysantin has a history going back 75 years and has been the factory fill for every Mercedes since day one as well as now being factory installed in all Chryslers and Fords. It's approved for use in every Toyota of this vintage. Don't get me wrong though: Toyota's OAT chemistry without 2-EHA is pretty good. As I said, I'm just anal.
The filter collects crap no matter which coolant I've used. After all it's a tough environment in there. Fwiw the car is only on it's second radiator since new and none of the hoses show OCD. Hell, the lower radiator hose is original. You read that right: 21 years old. Still checks out fine but since I have a new one lying around I really ought to change it one of these days.
Rennat;1011527 said:
It's a significant benefit...as you can see from JJ's pics, that filter caught quite a bit of crap floating around the coolant system. That stuff can accumulate in the radiator, cutting efficiency to the point of blockage over time. Considering all the problems you see on a Mk III cooling system, I call that worthwhile
Edit: Hehe...JJ beat me
BTW - this is on my agenda to do as well. Been talking to JJ of and on for a while about G-05 coolant and doing research myself on it...came to the same conclusion, HOAT chemistry is superior to your std coolant and the Toyota Red. For the filter, I plan on using the line that feeds the TB and ISCV for the filter feed and return to the block hard line the same way....it hardly ever gets cold enough in AZ to affect removal and the TB on the FFIM I'm going to use has no provision for coolant anyway. One thing about changing to HOAT coolant is you want to make sure the old stuff is thoroughly flushed from the system with water. Std coolant and HOAT don't play well together
jetjock;1011565 said:
Gotcha. :biglaugh:
And there I was going to ask, "what, no toilet paper?".
A coolant flush is a part of the scheduled services. As often as 15,000 miles from what I remember. It has been 4 years since I had a Toyota shirt on at work. Nice work JJ.
I actually have some dissected radiator core pics around here somewhere from a car I repaired a few months back. I'll post 'em up if I can find them. Not a pretty sight.
Nick: I also have opinions on what's best for flushes. Don't get me started
Nick: I also have opinions on what's best for flushes. Don't get me started
wow, never though about this, but it's a very good idea. i think i'll look into it, as the car is still apart and i need to finish the coolant lines anyways...
out of curiousity, would there be any downside to installing a shutoff valve on the inlet and outlet of the filter, or would you only change the filter when replacing all of the coolant?
out of curiousity, would there be any downside to installing a shutoff valve on the inlet and outlet of the filter, or would you only change the filter when replacing all of the coolant?
