compression test normal but still overheating

[89supra884]

Well cylinders 1-4 were 130-135 cylinders 5 and 6 were 140-145 there was a lot of oil dripping off those 2 plugs. The car is still overheating, when I bought the engine the guy had his heater lines set up to bypass the heater core. I'm not sure if that could be the issue, I don't think a cooling fan would be the issue because it doesn't cool down at all when I drive. And I bought a new thermostat and radiator cap and still overheating. The weired thing is its not going through any water.

Anyone???

Thanks for the help

 

[CajunKenny]

Bypassing the heater core is likely not the issue.

Is the car low on coolant?
What's the level in the overflow doing?
What condition is the rad in?

 

[89supra884]

Well the radiator is out of a turbo radiator, I was na beofre the swap and the radiator worked perfectly. Its not low on coolant that's the strange thing. Everytime before I drive I check it and its full, but I am running straight water right now and unless it overheats really bad then it bubbles and water comes out and then it goes a little low

 

[GrimJack]

Well, you're on the right track.

Did you cut off the jiggle valve on the thermostat? Did you test it before you put it in? Is there a crapload of dirt and leaves between the A/C condenser and the radiator? Is the fan clutch in good shape? Does it have a fan shroud and undertray?

 

[89supra884]

The weired thing is that I pulled the thermostat out and sealed up the housing just to see if that would do it and it still overheats. And I actually removed the condensor. And currently I am running an eletric fan. But if it was the fan wouldn't the temp at leats go down a little when I am driving?

 

[GrimJack]

Depends on a lot of other factors - mostly the ones that affect airflow at speed, with a bit of ambient temps mixed in. Also, what are you using to measure temperature? If you're using the stock gauge, it's pretty useless.

 

[89supra884]

Well I was kinda going off that and when the gauge dopes say its getting hot when I open the hood the resovor is bubbling and spitting out water, could the impeller blades on the water pump be shot?

 

[GrimJack]

Yes they could... you have to pull the water pump to check 'em, though.

Do you still have the original fan / shroud setup? Has this just started recently, or might it be related to the e-fan installation?

 

[kamikazemkiii]

Its gotta be either the water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan or fans.
What brand of electric fans do you have?

 

[89supra884]

I belive its the cooling fan off of a 1g gsx. I'm gonna be upgrading to dual slim fans soon

 

[89supra884]

Well I just pulled the water pump and it spins perfect and all the fins are there and ok.

 

[GrimJack]

I'm going to hazard a guess that your fan isn't up to it. Normally I'd tell someone to remount the shroud and clutch fan, see if the problem goes away. If it does, you've found the problem.

I haven't seen many e-fans that are up to the task. The ones that I have seen aren't cheap.

 

[colin39]

ok simple test top up water when cold.
run car for ten mins, and leave to cool
open rad cap and see if ya get spillage

if ya do then ya have a gas weep into the water jacket in a beginings of a blown head gasket.
what is happening is the pressure in the bores is pushing past the hg and into the water jacket.

 

[GrimJack]

If that were the case, it's unlikely that the compression test numbers would look like they do in post #1.

 

[colin39]

yea but ya only looking at the compesion at that moment leave ya tester on and see if it drops after a couple of mins.

 

[Flateric]

E-Fans, ugh, they sound great, less parasitic loss, better gas milage, blah blah blah. I have a very nice expensive twin fan setup......here is what I think of em after owning them for a few months.

They are loud. They don't run all the time true, but when they are not running they are actually allowing less airflow due to sitting in the way doing nothing. They do not inspire confidence that they will be as reliable for the long term as a good clutch fan WITH shrouding. And last but not least, but by far the most important IMO........

They do NOT move as much air as the previously mentioned clutch fan and shrouding setup and obviously therefor do not IMO keep things nearly as cool.

I know I'll be UPGRADING to the clutch fan setup that my 2jz originally came with in the first place before tried electrics. I originally tried a single large electric, it was seriously unable to meet the cooling task being ask of by my motor. So I thought what the hell I'll try a real nice dualfan setup from FAL. Cost me like $350 and I could have spent it elsewhere much more effectively.

I think your electrics are not only up to the job of cooling your motor, but they are also hindering your cooling even when driving around. The clutch fan may cause parasitic losses, I've read up to 12-15HP, but IMO this is an excellent way to use up 12-15 or hell 20 hp. Good piece of mind, good reliability and likely one of the good reasons toyota chose it in the first place.

I like your sig........reach for the biggest cooling hammer.....switch to a clutch fan. I bet your issues go away immediately.

GRIMJACK........what is this jiggle valve you speak of, I didn't understand this part of one of your replies.......could you please elaborate on it a little, thanks!

 

[colin39]

in the top of a thermostat there is a small hole sometimes filled with a ball and pin giggle/jiggle pin this hole needs to be at the top of the stat but only helps with air locks. and if all ya pipes are hot its not airocking