Comprehensive Lighting Modification Thread

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
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Meridian, ID
so i just got the gauge cluster and other accessory lights done. which ever had the 194 and 74's. Pretty sure i found an AWESOME bulb that spreads the light perfectly. i used the bulbs that i posted on previous page. no hotspots and really good color. and the lights were CHEAP :D. I've got the 3mm LEDs on the way to solder in so hopefully those turn out just as good.

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I'm still deciding on whether to do the needles red or white. I'm guessing red just cause it will go with the stereo/accessory light theme.
 

89TurboPC

New Member
May 10, 2007
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Beach Cities, SoCal
bluebullet89;1668220 said:
so i just got the gauge cluster and other accessory lights done. which ever had the 194 and 74's. Pretty sure i found an AWESOME bulb that spreads the light perfectly. i used the bulbs that i posted on previous page. no hotspots and really good color. and the lights were CHEAP :D. I've got the 3mm LEDs on the way to solder in so hopefully those turn out just as good.

That's nice. Seem like drop-in option for the cluster is the way to go.
Would you mind sharing where you get the bulbs from? Probably get some to drop in instead of DIY.

I'm trying to change the interior LED. Already did the CC and exterior with blue. Now I need to do the cluster + key rings.
 

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
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Meridian, ID
ya no prob i got them on ebay search "10 x t5 37 74" for the small #74 bulbs in whatever color you want. you get a pack of ten for like 3 bucks shipped and that will take care of the key ring and most the other accessory lighting. and then for the large gauge LED's search "A Pair Blue T10 194" or change blue to the color you want. and those were like 2 bucks a pair so i bought like 4 pair. for extras. i used them for the gauges. coolant. turn signal. so... ya.

i also bought a pair of the S.M.D. (surface mounted diode) #74's in blue that also kind spread the light well but they were a little bit more spendy. you'll find them.

Good luck
 

bluebullet89

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Oct 16, 2008
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Meridian, ID
hvyman;1682351 said:
Anybody put a new led in the key ring yet?

We talking DOOR or INTERIOR? I'm gonna do my door ring pretty soon and i'll do a little write up with some pics. I'm assuming with the time you have on here you are talking the door cause the interior is really quite simple.
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
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Apr 17, 2007
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Fullerton,CA
bluebullet89;1683567 said:
We talking DOOR or INTERIOR? I'm gonna do my door ring pretty soon and i'll do a little write up with some pics. I'm assuming with the time you have on here you are talking the door cause the interior is really quite simple.

Ya outside on the door. Already did the interior lights.

Is it pnp or do you need to remove and solder with like a 3mm led?
 

Nghty89

Zombie Chicks Are Hot
Mar 26, 2008
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7 Cities, VA
bluebullet89;1673548 said:
So I got the climate control done and I'm pretty happy with the outcome. I debated maybe adding some info to this thread that I didnt really see of things I ran into but wasnt sure if I'd be getting flamed for any reposted info.

So I made a full Process thread on SF.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?623261-LED-Climate-Control-Breakdown

The pic shows it a tad brighter than it really is.

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Great job! Between the two of these I will definitely be redoing my interior shortly. I'm sure I'll need to do some further searching on restoring the pictures on the buttons as well for the CC.

My only worry is, how exactly bright is it? I don't want something glaring in my face, but once these are all replaced they still work with the stock rheostat right? That is, if we have a working one?
 

bluebullet89

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Oct 16, 2008
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Meridian, ID
Nghty89;1689201 said:
Great job! Between the two of these I will definitely be redoing my interior shortly. I'm sure I'll need to do some further searching on restoring the pictures on the buttons as well for the CC.

My only worry is, how exactly bright is it? I don't want something glaring in my face, but once these are all replaced they still work with the stock rheostat right? That is, if we have a working one?

they defintely ARE NOT blinding. they are brighter than stock and you can see them on in the day if you have them on. They do dim to a degree with the Dimmer and will go off if you dim the interior lights completely... Just the RANGE from bright to dark isnt the same difference in range as the stock greenies. I'll be getting to the exterior key ring light pretty soon. cause i also need to replace the Supposed green ring/plastic mechanism for the stock alarm cause my alarm goes off everytime i unlock from driverside but not passenger.
 

hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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I used the 3mm blue component LED's from superbrightleds.com and they are not too bright at all. Actually wish they were brighter. So if you look at the specs on them if there around the number for those then they shouldn't be too bright.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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Fwiw, my cc lights are waaaayy too bright. Is love it if they were 50% as bright as they are.

Those of you who say they are not too bright, can you take a pic of the cc and the dash in the same pic? I haven't seen anybody with a basic led swapped dash that is even close to matching the led swapped cc units. Maybe it depends on the color.

My dash in white looks great, but the cc unit and gauges aren't even close to matching...

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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My EL gauges were dimmer than I wanted and my CC selection indicator LEDs were brighter, the rest I thought was just right. I remember that the green wire on one of the ribbons inside could be used to dim one set of the LEDs but I think it may have been the back lighting and not the selection LEDs.
 

suprarx7nut

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Nov 10, 2006
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Messing with SMDs for my needles... :naughty:

Looks incredibly messy and halfassed now, but it should turn out alright. I'm positive there are 100 better ways to mount these damn things, but this'll do for my prototype. :)

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CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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Nice work Sparky. ;) They definitely can be hell to deal with. If you just need straight lines some copper tape used in stained glass work that you can get from Michael's or Hobby Lobby works real well. Or you could etch a board Time magazine style style (Google it). Pre-tinning helps when working by hand too.

The copper tape looks like this and comes in various thicknesses. I'd recommend using some sort of high temp substrate... a non-conductive substrate I think goes without saying... like fiberglass or high temp plastics.
copper-tapes-250x250.jpg
 
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bluebullet89

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Oct 16, 2008
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Meridian, ID
Has anyone done the LED swap in a Pre-89 ? I'm working on it right now with my buddies supra. There are a few differences.

-Circuit boards don't have plugs. the ribbons are directly soldered in.
-The buttons have a light refractor which helps disperse the light. (I wish 89+ had them)
-TEMS buttons are made of different material/different paint coating so blue LEDs dont really come through BLUE mainly just white. :(

But everything else is pretty much the same.
 

suprarx7nut

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Nov 10, 2006
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Are you talking climate controller? I think borhor did one. Can't say ive done one myself. The whole peeling button issue really turned me off from even trying with my 88.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
 

bluebullet89

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Oct 16, 2008
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Meridian, ID
suprarx7nut;1759755 said:
Are you talking climate controller? I think borhor did one. Can't say ive done one myself. The whole peeling button issue really turned me off from even trying with my 88.

ya talking climate control. i wanted to see the finished product of a pre-89 i'll see if i can search and find borhors somewhere.
 

suprarx7nut

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Nov 10, 2006
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LED needles done except for one damn screw:
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This shows how much a difference painting the needle makes:
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I still need to find some screws for the speedo that are long enough. I think they are M2, but I can't find a retailer that carries anything even close. Once I find a place buy those damn screws, I can put it all together and transfer the LED's into my real cluster. Once I figured out how to make each LED board to just the right size and shape, it wasn't a terrible job. I probably have a solid 20 hours into it. Maybe more. :dunno: Totally worth it. :p