wen installing the cometic HG install do i need to put anything on it or just put nothing on and just lay the cometic hg and put the bolts on ? is tq the arp head studs and main studs to 82lbs tq enough ?
cometic HG install
- Thread starter i165mk
- Start date
If its a new MHG, do not put anything (i.e copper spray) on it:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29335
Yout torque ARP studs to 80 ft/lbs or ARP head bolts to 75 ft/lbs...both using moly as the lube. This is ARP spec...your bolts/studs should have come with a spec sheet. Suggest you read it
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29335
Yout torque ARP studs to 80 ft/lbs or ARP head bolts to 75 ft/lbs...both using moly as the lube. This is ARP spec...your bolts/studs should have come with a spec sheet. Suggest you read it
Also check to see if the rivets in the gasket are interferring with the block-head sealing surface. If it is you will need to remove them.
I did this with my titan head gasket. I do not know if the Cometic ones have the same issue.
Cheers,
Roy
I did this with my titan head gasket. I do not know if the Cometic ones have the same issue.
Cheers,
Roy
alright thanks guys another questions is.. is shell oil good to run for the break in period ? what should i got with 5w-10 or 30 what oil is good for the break in period and after. and what manual transmission oil is good for our cars ?
Valvoline straight 30W for 1st 100 miles...change oil to Valvoline 30W and run for 1500 miles...change to syn oil using a 0W or 5W-30. WalMart SuperTech filters are fine for running the 30W...use a Wix or PureOne when you switch to syn oil. Take a look at the Oil Section for specifics.
Red Line MT-90 is an outstanding choice for a manual tranny IMO.
Red Line MT-90 is an outstanding choice for a manual tranny IMO.
wen installing the cometic HG install do i need to put anything on it or just put nothing on and just lay the cometic hg and put the bolts on ?
While you dont need to put anything on the gasket as noted above, befor you put the gasket on and then place the head on, there is a step where you apply some "packing" to specific points.
please look at
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=55
step 1a
to see what I am refering to.
While you dont need to put anything on the gasket as noted above, befor you put the gasket on and then place the head on, there is a step where you apply some "packing" to specific points.
please look at
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&Page=55
step 1a
to see what I am refering to.
It's a matter of opinon really. There no "right" way that everyone will agree on. It's either:
Balls to the walls after the engine oil is up to operating temps, and stay on it like that it bursts (giving time to cool down) for the first 20 miles, oil change, easy driving for about another 500 miles, oil change, then easy driving for another 1000 miles, oil change, and this time switch to synethic (NEVER break in using synthetic oil, it's too slick), making sure to never keep it in the same RPMs for any decent amount of time... OR
Baby the car for the first 1000-1500 miles.
I guess you can tell by my description which one I prefer.
Balls to the walls after the engine oil is up to operating temps, and stay on it like that it bursts (giving time to cool down) for the first 20 miles, oil change, easy driving for about another 500 miles, oil change, then easy driving for another 1000 miles, oil change, and this time switch to synethic (NEVER break in using synthetic oil, it's too slick), making sure to never keep it in the same RPMs for any decent amount of time... OR
Baby the car for the first 1000-1500 miles.
I guess you can tell by my description which one I prefer
.
starscream5000 said:
I'd beat the shit out of it for the first 20k, but thats just me.:icon_razz
I broke my car in the beat-the-snot out of it way. WOW, you could feel it build power as it sat the rings. Well. Nashman was driving but woo!
check out this link some good info that has been brought up a 1000x
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I hope that link wasnt for me. Seen it a long time ago hence my previous post......About hearing both arguments the gentle vs the hard break in. I asked him what he did personally meaning the steps he took. The guy on that website did not break in a turbo car we all are aware that there is big difference between 7psi and 14psi and according to the website he saying break it in exactly how you will be driving it does that mean 14psi? I doubt it.
So again can you share your steps in breaking your motor
So again can you share your steps in breaking your motor
I will personally be running off of the wastegate of my CT, or a rebuilt (possibly upgraged CT) one, then after 1500 miles, I"m switching to the BOSS turbo and installing the MAFT-Pro.
turbo car or not you still have to break in the rings which have to seal the same in both applications I have followed that break in with very good results
That's why I prefer the harder break-in method as when the engine is under load it's putting more stress on the piston rings so they will seat and wear the cross hatch evenly. Down shifting into high RPMS and letting it decell on it's own so the vacuum will pull the piston rings out even more is just as important as getting down on it.
bountykilla0118 said:
We got the car all warmed up then gunned it up a long steep road. Made sure to keep the revs changing, always.
Once we got to the top of the steep road we downshifted the crap out of the car all the way down.
At the bottom BAM seated.