CODE !@#!$$%%!

SupraBo

New Member
Dec 30, 2006
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Va Beach
Nick M said:
So your throttle body is supernatural and does not have to abide by the laws of physics. How interesting.

haha, you had to say that didn't you.

The main reason is so that during the winter months, the
higher temperature of the coolant will keep the throttle body warmer thereby preventing icing. It is also believed that during the hot, summer months, the coolant pass-through works to cool off the throttle body.


I doubt it would cool down my throttle body. I've had mine bypassed on my ls1 for 3 years. Its considered the first free mod you do on an F-body car. I have yet to see a negative side effect from doing this
 

whenmunkysfly

scratch that...going 2jz
Jun 26, 2006
746
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United States
SupraBo said:
haha, you had to say that didn't you.

The main reason is so that during the winter months, the
higher temperature of the coolant will keep the throttle body warmer thereby preventing icing. It is also believed that during the hot, summer months, the coolant pass-through works to cool off the throttle body.


I doubt it would cool down my throttle body. I've had mine bypassed on my ls1 for 3 years. Its considered the first free mod you do on an F-body car. I have yet to see a negative side effect from doing this

not to jump in on this but you realize when you build pressure you also build heat ALOT so your intake air isn't much cooler then you throttle anyway.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
SupraBo said:
On this forum like 10% of the people know what there talking about. The other 90% have no freaking clue. And the 10% that knows anything just write the same thing over and over again.

Ain't that the truth. Which group are you in? ;)

I dunno what is causing your problem is but if I were you I'd test things before condemning them as bad. I dunno how "classic" your symptoms are either as you should be able to drive around all day long with the AFM disconnected. That said if the AFM and TPS are both bad it'll be a different story.
 

SupraBo

New Member
Dec 30, 2006
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Va Beach
-Rich87Tx2 said:
I ran back through and re-read your thread. This might help you based on your descriptions:

You said "Under full throttle there are no issues, it’s all at idle. When I let off the motor drops to less then 700 rpms if not completely dies. Idle when cold is anything but. Also it pulsates idling, the check engine light comes on when idling. Driving around it goes away. "

That indicates your TPS is sticking or mis-oriented or possibly an ISC problem.

JJ did a great job of covering your fuel pressure issue, and that should have taken care of your smoking problem.

You said, "it threw a Code 51" - "I figured it was the TPS, so I replaced it with another one"

As JJ said, that is a real time code and can indicate an open IDL circuit, again indicating a TPS problem. You said you changed it, so mis-orientation is very likely a problem. Code 51 also indicates an AC signal. Just turn off your AC when checking codes.

You said, "well the car was working. i mean i did some full speed runs and then nothing." - "And nothing still the same
It wont rev over 2000 rpm, If I put the pedal all the way done it wont go over 1000rpms"

That is a likely indicator that no AFM frequency is getting to the ECU. And is a totally different problem than what you described in the first place. Tyically, the AFM goes bad because someone tried to clean it, or the elec. connector is corroded. When an engine starts having trouble, th first thing most people do is grab a can of carb spray and start cleaning things. What most people don't know is carb spray immediately kills the AFM electronics.

You said "if i were to guess on the problem right now it would be the mass air flow sensor. but the car idles fine (when hot) "

It will idle fine with no AFM signal as long at the IDL switch within the TPS is closed (TPS is oriented correctly) and the rest of the motor is reasonably solid. When the IDL switch is closed, the ECU will be running a preset IDL map and ignore the O2 input and various other sensors.

Jetjock said, "you should be able to drive around all day long with the AFM disconnected".


That's not correct. The AFM is telling the ECU the air flow into the engine. If the TPS output compared to the karmon frequency rises above the threshold in the ECU, the engine goes into limp mode and falls on it's face. It won't rev above about 1,600RPM. If the IDL switch is not closed, the ECU is trying to use the frequency and O2 sensor to adjust idle and can't due to sensor inaccuracies caused by low temps (O2) and too little flow (mirror can't make a reliable frequency), which is why the engine hunts or pulsates.

For the won't rev >2,000RPM - I would swap the AFM for a known good AFM at this point and see what happens. If the new AFM doesn't fix the problem on your car, see if your AFM works on the other car. If it does work on the other car, you have a wiring problem related to AFM.

For the won't idle, pulsates - Check your TPS and ISC.

Between those three things, you will likely solve your problems. Hope that helps.
-Rich

Well I really appreciate breaking down for me. I can say that I’ve learn a TREMENDEOUS amount from what you and others (jetjock) said. I can say just you taking a small amount of time typing, I’ve learned more then if I were to trouble shoot all day. :biglaugh:

On this whole situation, one problem turned into many.

Where would you recommend getting a new AFM, like discount auto parts or oem??
 
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SupraBo

New Member
Dec 30, 2006
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Va Beach
jetjock said:
The problem is some of what you're learning is wrong. Do you know what the Law of Primacy is? Be careful. People who "know enough to be dangerous" are the ones who'll do the most damage to you under that law.


Im throwing this out there for learning.

So the car will operate (somewhat) properly with the AFM disconnected. With everything else working properly.

Now I am assuming the oxygen sensor compensates for the error in the AFM. The oxygen sensor not working wouldn’t correct the air to fuel ratio

Or the ECU will default to standard setting air consumption (I guess that would be the “limp mode” he was talking about”

Now the car is not throwing any codes since I replaced the TPS.
 

Supra

New Member
May 11, 2005
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jetjock said:
I'd educate you on the details of that but since you already consider yourself an expert I won't bother.

I don't know if I'm coming across as a hardass or something, but I'm always open to correction.

Suprabo - I deleted my replies since JJ feels they are "wrong". I'll let him help you further.
 
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