Code 31, and VERY loud, inconistant knock

[Supra_Villan]

well....went to change the oil and inspect the filter...so i drained the old oil....looked a little wierd for 10 or 15 minutes of running time, but i did use some of that oil dye (not more than recommended) so i think that might be the culprit...at least i know its the culprit to the little bright green spots

i went to remove the filter so i could cut it open and inspect it...and of course put on the new one! but.....low and behold my stupid ass put the filter on faaaaar too tight and i ended up with this....

yes...i do fail.....
but on another note i loosened up my crank pulley, it really didn't take much to get it off. I'm in hopes that was the culprit i tightened it down to 150ftlbs(as much as the tq wrench i have will go) then gave it another 1/8th or so of a turn to hold me over until i get a better torque wrench. I can't start it yet because i cant put on the new filter lol, so i'll be in pursuit of an oil filter wrench tomorrow and i hope that'll get the job done.

 

[dumbo]

The good ol' screwdriver filter wrench haha. Did you get it off?

What is the torque rating on the crank pulley bolts??

 

[Supra_Villan]

well.....fuck my life.....found out that this is nothing short of rod knock.....i know this because i got the filter off today....shook it....head some rattling around inside of it. I dump it out to find this....

fucking mud dobbers.....anytime i had an open port in the engine i was sure to stuff either plastic bags, or rags into the gap to make sure nothing got in....guess i was wrong....the shop i had the car in was infested with mud dobbers...i never found any of thier nests in the car, or in the engine bay...i found 3 or 4 on the under carriage of the car....and one in the oil pan from intitial assembly before i had oil in it. I took off the pan, and took a flashlight to where i could see and my hand to everywhere a flashlight would't reach and that was the only one.....so i thought......i'm not sure when i'll get to tear in to this because i don't have 100+$ for bearings....hopefully the crank and rods are fine....i did one last running video just to make sure after i tightened up the crank pulley last night and changed the oil. i'll post that vid here in a minute.....i'm so fed up right now.

 

[dumbo]

What are mud dobblers???? And how did they get past the suction screen?

 

[Supra_Villan]

no idea...but they did.....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mud_dauber
http://americanbeeremoval.com/images/MudDauberNest01.jpg

 

[dumbo]

Mud wasps oh hahah.

 

[Supra_Villan]

I got it all torn apart to find some really nasty oil and some ugly bearings. The oil flickered in the sun like wet metallic paint. The crank weights had some heat marks on them you can see that in the pics. The rods and rod journals looked fine with no deep appearing scratches or none that i could feel with my fingernail. The filter i removed was only ran for 2 or so minutes with it knocking and thank god there were no solids hanging out in there unlike the old one. Although i did dump out the filter and after it spilled all the oil inside of itself it was still pretty heavy not sure if thats normal on a wix. I didn't take the main caps off because i was losing daylight and i was curious if there was a way to get to the motor(top) side of the main bearings without removing the flywheel and stuff. Can i get away with not replacing the mains? I'm not sure i figured i would ask the community for there input because i always get some good ideas from you guys. Do you guys think a set of std clevites would suffice as long as i do this by the tsrm with a quality snap on torqe wrench and some plastigauge i have access to a mic also.
And is there any way to get all the old oil out without pulling the motor?

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[Supra_Villan]

any input before i dig into this guys?

 

[Supra_Villan]

Here is a vid of it before the teardown. Excuse the nasty cluttered engine bay i plan to sort that out once i get it running right. Also excuse the shitty running i think my relocated coils have a shitty ground. Tell me what you guys think.

 

[grimreaper]

damn thats some loud knock!!

 

[rayall01]

Those bearings in the pictures don't look bad enough to knock like that. Look at this pic, that's a bad bearing!

 

[supr88]

i will second that none of those bearings look bad enough to be rod knock.
whats with the green dye? keep things that dont belong in your engine out.
you can do whats called a bearing roll in to get those mains. you need to take one cap off at a time and using a screwdriver or other pointy tool, slowly bar the engine over and give the bearing a little push and it will roll right around and fall out. do the opposite to get it back in there. be very very careful, and note where the notch in the bearing is, obviously its only going to come out one way.

 

[Supra_Villan]

The green dye was a uv leak detector dye it said oil safe....so if it wasn't a rod then what was that knocking? Thanks for the replys guys i thought i was never gonna get any :aigo:. I'm gonna any other ideas? Would bad mains make it knock like that? but i mean if the rods look fine the mains should look similar. And like i said it ran for a max of 5 mins knocking

 

[rayall01]

The green dye was a uv leak detector dye it said oil safe....so if it wasn't a rod then what was that knocking? Thanks for the replys guys i thought i was never gonna get any :aigo:. I'm gonna any other ideas? Would bad mains make it knock like that? but i mean if the rods look fine the mains should look similar. And like i said it ran for a max of 5 mins knocking

It seems to me that the sound had a pretty high pitch. That could be indicating wrist pins. Check the wrist pins.

 

[Supra_Villan]

on je's what do i look for?

 

[rayall01]

on je's what do i look for?

Same as any wrist pin, excessive play. You should not be able to move the rod straight up and down, nor be able to shift the rod diagonally at all.

 

[Supra_Villan]

Fixed

 

[CyFi6]

Those bearings dont look bad at all, did you dry start it though, before cranking it over to prime the oil? Brand new bearings shouldn't look like that, but they're definitely not terrible. I probably would have done a little bit of diagnosis before simply tearing all down again, but hey whatever works for you. What did you end up finding?

 

[Kevin]

Fixed

so how did you fix it?

 

[Supra_Villan]

had to drop the subframe and pull the pan. But i put in all new acl bearings and plastigaged them all and they were all consistent and within spec. I mic'd the crank and rod journals just to be sure and they all checked out fine also. No visible or feelable crank or rod damage so its all good now!