hi, i was just wondering if these wires are shielded, im trying to repair my wires, or is this just a regular wire that i can splice together?
Thanks
Thanks
code 14 IGF wire
- Thread starter roadboy
- Start date
ok, so i tried repairing the wires, and its still showing a code 14? no signal from IGF wire
im soldering the wires, current goes through (iv tried) but its still showing a code 14
it was working couple days ago
long story short, my IGF wire got cut, tried to splice showed code 14
any idea?
im soldering the wires, current goes through (iv tried) but its still showing a code 14
it was working couple days ago
long story short, my IGF wire got cut, tried to splice showed code 14
any idea?
I don't think it's shielded, but it may depend on where you are looking to splice. I removed the black/orange wire from the B1 connector at the dash, and connected them directly (outside of the plastic). Looked to be a regular unshielded wire in that location.
i seriously dont know how to make a signal for igf
i tried splicing at least 2-3 times and tried starting with no luck.
i tried splicing at least 2-3 times and tried starting with no luck.
at the dash, right at the ecu connectors
---------- Post added at 02:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:22 PM ----------
or is there a way i can bypass this wire or something that i can make it run?
---------- Post added at 02:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:22 PM ----------
or is there a way i can bypass this wire or something that i can make it run?
---------- Post added at 03:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 PM ----------
i redid them again and again, cutting them each time, made sure theres continuity that flows trough them, but still no signal
I'd suggest that you disconnect from the ECU and pull the harness into the engine bay. This will give you more room to see what else is going on with the wiring.
So U didn't have the code/issue BEFORE you cut the wire? I'd doublecheck that nothing else was accidentally cut and/or damaged/melted while attempting to solder.
Do you have another ignitor to test with? Could be that once cut, the wire/signal made contact with ground or sumthin' and shorted something out on the ignitor, or even the ECU. Once you pull the harness back and verify the wiring is solid, I would try replacing the ECU and ignitor to rule them out as issues.
So U didn't have the code/issue BEFORE you cut the wire? I'd doublecheck that nothing else was accidentally cut and/or damaged/melted while attempting to solder.
Do you have another ignitor to test with? Could be that once cut, the wire/signal made contact with ground or sumthin' and shorted something out on the ignitor, or even the ECU. Once you pull the harness back and verify the wiring is solid, I would try replacing the ECU and ignitor to rule them out as issues.
so igniter is fine, i dont know whats going on, theres no spark coming out too. and code 14 still gets stored after a reset
no spark, because igf was cut, so i had to repair that, it was cut by accident
---------- Post added at 11:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 PM ----------
before it got cut, it worked perfectly fine
---------- Post added at 11:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 PM ----------
before it got cut, it worked perfectly fine
One of us is confused. No spark = no IGf, not the other way 'round. IGf causes no injection. In other words IGf has nothing to do with making spark but not having spark has everything to do with IGf...
Your splices don't look good. Consider doing it right. Page 6 of 14. Crimp the wires, then fill the crimp with solder.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf
yea i know, i got fustrated, since i sodered it like 3 times, everythings fine, now good solder and heatshrink
Crimp,then fill the crimp with solder and heat shrink. You can't use the common butt connectors in auto parts stores. I buy them online. Maybe Figgie or JJ can tell you where to get good ones retail.