Code 14: BAD CAPS/ECU :( Engine cranks and starts but wont run.

[viperkillertt]

I was on my way to church and half way up a hill when i felt a quick jolt, loss in power, 2x and then engine light and then car dead.

It was so quick i could barely react quick enough. I was about a mile from home and i was able to push my car all but 2 blocks from home. It is 99 degrees today, so i am going to pick her up later tonight when it cools down.

But anyways, anyone have any idea? The car will not run. It starts quickly and immediately dies.
Here is a quick youtube video of what is happening.

It is a stock 89 Toyota supra American fuel pump. I didn't switch it when i did the swap. The car only had 104k miles when i got the body, but she still is almost 20 years old.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3HN3f_kFBY&hl

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give!


Edit: Monday June 14th, 2008 11am.

Fuel pump not dead. I was reading the diagram upside down.

Ok, so i have checked the codes and it is code 14. I was really hoping this wouldnt be it.

So igniter or ecu. YAY!!!
DAMNIT!!!
I was really hoping it was the fuel pump. I have one week before i have to drive 400 miles home from my vacation in spokane.


Edit: Monday June 14th, 2008 1pm.
ECU fried, Pictures later in post.
Code 14

Edit: Monday June 14th, 2008 10pm.
Cap was replaced, still down. No go

Here is the list of required caps for the 1jz
15uF 35V
47uF 63V
33uF 35V
100uF 10V
220uF 10V

I really need some advice.

EDIT: 07/24/08
I found the Caps at http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/digihome.html
Here are the part numbers that i ordered. They only cost about 1 buck, plus shipping. They don't show you the shipping on the site, but i chose postal service first class. They were made by Panasoinc, which i have been told is a good cap manufacturer.
P835-ND 33UF 35V MINI ALUM ELECT (KA)
P923-ND KG RAD ALUM ELEC CAP 15MFD 35V
P5581-ND CAP 47UF 63V ELECT NHG RADIAL
P5124-ND CAP 220UF 10V ALUM LYTIC RADIAL
P831-ND 100UF 10V MINI ALUM ELECT (KA)

Total Price for 2 sets:
Your total cost is $4.44 in U.S. currency, including $2.02 postage.
Pretty Sweet!

EVERYONE WITH A 1JZ ECU NEEDS TO GET NEW CAPS IN THEIR ECU ASAP!!!! I WAITED TOO LONG AND DESTROYED MY ECU

 

[10secdream]

Well check if you are getting fuel first by connecting +B and FP in the diagnostic port. Listen and feel if fuel is going through the return hose.

 

[tlo86]

sounds like the pump, usually when you dont have it hooked up it will start but die right after

you didnt just blow a fuse did ya?

 

[THE1JZSPECIAL]

Yes check your fuel system , if everything is ok find out what computer code its throwing

Another thing you guys should know , I just finished installing a new gas tank,walbro fuel pump and fuel filter because my last gas tank was rusted on the inside all the rust particles were sucked in by the fuel pump and thats how my fuel pump blew, we all know that are MK3
trunks leak water but also the water then leaks onto the tank if your gaskets for the gas tanks bad guess where water is headed next?? Thats right folks you guessed it!

 

[Justin]

Josh -

I have a spare stock fuel pump you can borrow to test yours. Cory needs it to replace his walbro in his endevor to go back to stock. I'm sure if that ends up being the problem you could buy cory's when we put this one back in.

- Justin

 

[viperkillertt]

Josh -

I have a spare stock fuel pump you can borrow to test yours. Cory needs it to replace his walbro in his endevor to go back to stock. I'm sure if that ends up being the problem you could buy cory's when we put this one back in.

- Justin

WHy is cory going back to stock, and why going to stock on the fuel pump? Is the noise bothering him?
Sadly i just filled up the tank

 

[viperkillertt]

Well check if you are getting fuel first by connecting +B and FP in the diagnostic port. Listen and feel if fuel is going through the return hose.

Thanks for the tip. I will try that after i push the car the 2 extra blocks back to my house. it is currently 97 outside. 2 blocks somewhat uphill would kill me right now.

 

[di_rosa]

zazzn's car was doing that when his rpm wire was cut (for his rev limiter). it would start for a split second, then die. exactly how your video is actually.

but, just a thought. could be ignitor/crank sensor/trigger wheel (mine kinda acted like that when the trigger wheel broke).

 

[10secdream]

zazzn's car was doing that when his rpm wire was cut (for his rev limiter). it would start for a split second, then die. exactly how your video is actually.

but, just a thought. could be ignitor/crank sensor/trigger wheel (mine kinda acted like that when the trigger wheel broke).

That would be a spark issue not a fuel issue though correct? That would also throw a code 14 because the IGF wire was cut.

I guess the main issue is check for spark and fuel then the problem can be further diagnosed.

 

[viperkillertt]

Well check if you are getting fuel first by connecting +B and FP in the diagnostic port. Listen and feel if fuel is going through the return hose.

Ok,
I am in the garage now. 2 of my friends helped me push her home last night. I have connected the above ports and i hear absolutly nothing. i don't feel anything either. I have the key in run position. I have tried it with the key off also.
Where is the fuse for the fuel pump?
Thanks guys!!!!

 

[viperkillertt]

I have also now put my hear directly to the fuel tank and i dont hear anything but my neighbors country on his radio 2 houses away

I do hear a small noise in the intake when the car is in run.

I thought that you didn't need to turn the key to get the diagnostic ports to run. I am not certain. I definitely believe it is the fuel pump now.

 

[viperkillertt]

Fuel pump not dead. I was reading the diagram upside down.

Ok, so i have checked the codes and it is code 14. I was really hoping this wouldnt be it.

So igniter or ecu. YAY!!!
DAMNIT!!!
I was really hoping it was the fuel pump. I have one week before i have to drive 400 miles home from my vacation in spokane.

 

[JonoTurbo]

My car threw code 14 when the ECU died. I don't think the igniters go bad very often.

 

[viperkillertt]

DAMNIT!!!!
One fricken cap!!!


Well, what can you do. I will go and locate some new caps. I sure hope this is the only problem. My awesome buddy Justin is great with the soldering gun. It looks like the area and especially where the connections go to the wiring harness are all blackish. I sure hope the board is not ruined.

 

[JonoTurbo]

That sucks man, your best bet is to replace them all while you're in there. I had good luck sourcing all the caps from digikey online.

Those traces look like they'll probably need some work too, unfortunately.

 

[10secdream]

Ya stupid code 14. I have been there too bro and my ecu was not repairable which really sucked. I hope you get it fixed soon.

 

[viperkillertt]

Ya stupid code 14. I have been there too bro and my ecu was not repairable which really sucked. I hope you get it fixed soon.

Yeah,
I have to drive back across the state on Sunday. If i cant, i will be pretty screwed.

Anyone know of anyone selling a ECU right now? Ironically i just emailed my boss last week telling him that we should start stocking used 1jz ecus for people who are in my situation He has connections in Japan, i dont think it will happen soon enough though.


FRICKEN 100 degree weather!!!

 

[viperkillertt]

NO GO
Justin re soldered a new cap. I was able to locate the right one in town. But it doesnt go
I have reset the car and tried a few more times.
We cleaned the whole area with alcohol and so it was nice and clean, but it is still bad. Anyone have any other ideas? I have 5 more days to figure it out. If anyone has a spare igniter or ecu, please PM me.
Thanks!