Code 13 after engine swap

[f00g00]

Just swapped in a 1JZ from japan after pulling other 1JZ and am getting a hard code 13.
The engine will idle for maybe 5 seconds roughly then the code appears and the engine shuts down.
Harness is from Dr Tweak
I have checked the following:
Crank sensor circuit resistance, in specs
Cam 1 and cam 2 Sensors resistance, in specs
Checked timing TDC with crank and both cams, in spec

I have done the following:
Swapped out all 3 sensors with old motor
Tried an Auto ecu from the swap motor
Still get code 13, rough idle and engine shutting off.

I am out of ideas on what to do next.

 

[supra1jz]

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

Plug X pin 17 check that pin
http://www.clickdesign.co.uk/supradupra/html/1jz_wiring.html

Also check your igniter Plug A pin 1
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/38276-1jz-ignitor-pinouts.html

Also make sure that pin from the igniter has good signal with the M1 plug pin 4 it's a black wire
http://www.lextech.org/documents/IG1(87-89).pdf

Also it sound more like a code 14 I had this problem with my 2jz swap and it was the igf signal wire from the igniter to the Ecu

 

[seoul4korea]

how are your marks set up for your crank? Do you have the factory crank still? The crank has 5 degree's of TDC and you have to line it up in the middle pretty much. I think it's from 0-5 degrees.

 

[f00g00]

how are your marks set up for your crank? Do you have the factory crank still? The crank has 5 degree's of TDC and you have to line it up in the middle pretty much. I think it's from 0-5 degrees.

The Crank pully is a Fluidampr from driftmotion, tdc is right on the first line and the cams are lined up.

The lead mechanic came in late today and got it running, he found a pin pulled out of the fuel relay on the right inner fender so now it runs and doesn't shut off at least.
Now I have the typical 3000 rpm breakup but what we have found is the number two cylinder isn't making a difference when I unplug the coilpack. We took an extra coilpack and put a spark plug in it and it has spark.
Took a noid light and the injector is pulsing.
Checked compression and its around 170.

Still have the code 13 popping up.

After the engine cools down we are going to remove the valve covers to see what the cams and shim buckets are doing when the engine rotates, check the clearances and also check the condition of the lobes for the sensors. I hope the head doesn't have to come off.

 

[S.A. supra]

Try checking the injector plug. Mine did the same thing I pulled the injector plug and found that when I pluged it in I bent the two prongs down and weren't making contact. I bent them back in place and gently slid the plug back in.

Btw what is a code 13? I'm being lazy.

 

[f00g00]

code 13 is crank sensor, cam sensor 1 or 2 or a combo between them not agreeing.
Injector plug was removed for the noid light test. plug is ok.

 

[S.A. supra]

This pins aren't bent? The are very flimsy.

Where the cps full of oil? Did you trace the sensor wires back to the ecu and make sure they didn't mix them up when they built the harness? Ecu pins 25, 26, and 27

 

[f00g00]

View attachment 67356

This pins aren't bent? The are very flimsy.

Where the cps full of oil? Did you trace the sensor wires back to the ecu and make sure they didn't mix them up when they built the harness? Ecu pins 25, 26, and 27

The pins are good to go, and the harness from tweak worked flawless on the old engine, we will pull the injector first to see if it is stuck before opening the covers.

 

[S.A. supra]

Tits! Thats all I have........ if I think of anything ill let you know.

 

[f00g00]

Injector was stuck, cleaned and reinstalled so now has a good idle but still code 13 and breakup at 3000 rpm.

 

[seoul4korea]

how do your coils look by the way? You might have to shrink wrap them.

Maybe you lower CPS sensor is bad.

 

[S.A. supra]

Still throwing the code? Coils will break it up at 3000 for sure. Mine had cracks everywhere, so I had to buy all new ones.

 

[f00g00]

how are your marks set up for your crank? Do you have the factory crank still? The crank has 5 degree's of TDC and you have to line it up in the middle pretty much. I think it's from 0-5 degrees.

Turns out the crankshaft was one tooth off so the code was from mismatched crank/cam timing. Now she is good to go. On the way home from the mechanics the temp was up so I will be installing my summer fan clutch.
Thanks to all for your inputs!

 

[seoul4korea]

Turns out the crankshaft was one tooth off so the code was from mismatched crank/cam timing. Now she is good to go. On the way home from the mechanics the temp was up so I will be installing my summer fan clutch.
Thanks to all for your inputs!

What fan set up are you running now? Glad you got it sorted!

 

[f00g00]

I'm running an ls400 fan clutch with a 7M blade and shroud with a koyo oem rad.