Im having a problem with the clip that goes on the release hub. I recently bought a new ACT clutch, Fidanza flywheel, south bend PP, hub and clips. I had my friend who is a mechanic at Toyota install it all. The clip has popped off three times now. After the second time we noticed that the release hub Toyota had given us had a much bigger gap in it where the clip sat compared to my old one. So we got new clips and installed the old release hub back on with the new clips. It seemed to be fixed until last night when it popped off again. Any help would be appreciated as we are both stumped on this one.
Clutch release hub clip problem
- Thread starter Sexual Toast
- Start date
It's not being installed correctly then. What happens is the lock ring will spin in the hub, slowly machining the slot wider or just getting spit out.
Doesn't help that the TSRM is a bit vague on how it's put together as if it was installed wrong to begin with (like on my car) you have nothing to compare it to.
Now, I can try to help though as best as I can. I'll referance this picture:
Ok, 31231 is the hub. 31264 is the cone washer. 31264A is the flat washer. 31231A is the throwout bearing. 31231B is the lock ring that holds the hub to the bearing.
Now, put the hub on the bench with end you install the throwout bearing on up. The cone washer(31264) is used to keep tension on the snap ring and bearing, so it MUST be positioned correctly. If you place the cone washer on the bench, the outside edge should be raised off the surface. If the center edge is raised, flip it over. Now, put the cone washer on the hub in the same direction you took it off the bench. You then put the flat washer(31264A) on next. The throwout bearing(31231A) then gets put on with the flange on top. Now you install the lock ring(31231B). It's not going to be easy as you have to fight the spring action of the cone washer. There should be no play in the assembly.
Now you can slip the assembly through the back of the pressure plate(31210) and install the flat washer(31231C) and the wave washer (31231D) and hold them in place with the lock ring(31231E). The assembly should be quite stiff. If there is play in any of the assembly front or back (basicly if it would rattle), then replace the washers (namely the wave washer and cone washer).
Also, they're lock rings, not snap rings. The TSRM says to use snap ring pliers, but you'll hate your life using them. You'll either break the snap ring pliers, or they'll slip. Get some lock ring pliers like: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...ring+pliers&prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=L11
Hope that helps, I really should have taken detailed pics when I did this years ago as it seems to be a common issue.
Doesn't help that the TSRM is a bit vague on how it's put together as if it was installed wrong to begin with (like on my car) you have nothing to compare it to.
Now, I can try to help though as best as I can. I'll referance this picture:
Ok, 31231 is the hub. 31264 is the cone washer. 31264A is the flat washer. 31231A is the throwout bearing. 31231B is the lock ring that holds the hub to the bearing.
Now, put the hub on the bench with end you install the throwout bearing on up. The cone washer(31264) is used to keep tension on the snap ring and bearing, so it MUST be positioned correctly. If you place the cone washer on the bench, the outside edge should be raised off the surface. If the center edge is raised, flip it over. Now, put the cone washer on the hub in the same direction you took it off the bench. You then put the flat washer(31264A) on next. The throwout bearing(31231A) then gets put on with the flange on top. Now you install the lock ring(31231B). It's not going to be easy as you have to fight the spring action of the cone washer. There should be no play in the assembly.
Now you can slip the assembly through the back of the pressure plate(31210) and install the flat washer(31231C) and the wave washer (31231D) and hold them in place with the lock ring(31231E). The assembly should be quite stiff. If there is play in any of the assembly front or back (basicly if it would rattle), then replace the washers (namely the wave washer and cone washer).
Also, they're lock rings, not snap rings. The TSRM says to use snap ring pliers, but you'll hate your life using them. You'll either break the snap ring pliers, or they'll slip. Get some lock ring pliers like: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...ring+pliers&prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=L11
Hope that helps, I really should have taken detailed pics when I did this years ago as it seems to be a common issue.
Alright, thanks for your help! Hopefully tomorrow we will tear it down again and see if we can do it right this time. Pulling the transmission four times is getting a little annoying.
Sexual Toast;1658786 said:
I would imagine it would be as everything is so tight in there! I'm putting a 5 sp. in my car soon and I'm bookmarking it for reference. Great info Poodles.
Yeah my friend has pulling the transmission down to 39 minutes by himself from all this. Dunno if you would consider that a good or bad thing.
Yeah, mine is from personal experience as well. Personal experience that most shops suck ass and don't have a clue outside of ALLDATA.
Mine was a huge fiasco. Bought the car with a new clutch. Clutch snap ring popped off. Get the clutch repaired (they said it needed changing so me being dumb, I went along with it). Shop brought down a lift on my door and denied it and said it came to them like that (um, no). Fought with them over the cost of bodywork, screw up wiring, etc. Clutch failed I think 4 more times after that and finally decided a shop will NEVER touch my car again as I fixed it and got a better clutch for half the cost I paid for neanderthals to work on my car...
All said and done, the hub assembly was missing 2 pieces and the throwout bearing was backwards. Plus a lot more stupid shit that happened, but that was all that pertains to this thread lol
Mine was a huge fiasco. Bought the car with a new clutch. Clutch snap ring popped off. Get the clutch repaired (they said it needed changing so me being dumb, I went along with it). Shop brought down a lift on my door and denied it and said it came to them like that (um, no). Fought with them over the cost of bodywork, screw up wiring, etc. Clutch failed I think 4 more times after that and finally decided a shop will NEVER touch my car again as I fixed it and got a better clutch for half the cost I paid for neanderthals to work on my car...
All said and done, the hub assembly was missing 2 pieces and the throwout bearing was backwards. Plus a lot more stupid shit that happened, but that was all that pertains to this thread lol
I know what you mean Poodles. When I had this motor installed I got fucked over bad, to say it in simple terms. My friend is a master mechanic at Toyota, so if I cant do it he helps me. I pretty much learn all of it off of him and the forums.