My clutch pedal is getting "stuck" when I release it, it doesn't spring back up through the free play in the pedal, I can easily pull it back with my foot but its really annoying and it just started doing this. The Master cyl is newer, no idea on the slave, the pedal assembly itself is a bit squeeky and I was just under there the other day fixing a problem with my throttle cable, is there I spring I might have knocked off or is the big one the only one?
Clutch Pedal Problem
- Thread starter Island_Yota
- Start date
Check to make sure that you have fluid in the reservoir and no leaks anywhere. A pedal sinking and not coming back up sounds like you've lost hydraulic pressure somewhere in the system. Check the slave cylinder as well, you stated that you don't know the condition of it. The seals may have worn out causing the pressure loss.
Check slave cylinder. If your fluid levels are ok, I'd put a few bucks down that that is the problem. 
Yeah, I'd say lack of pressure 8-9 times out of 10 is the slave. Check slave first, then go back and check the rest from there.
If it's not the slave cylinder, check the soft line next (if you still are using the rubber line)
If it's not the slave cylinder, check the soft line next (if you still are using the rubber line)
I had the same condition not long after my stage 3 clutch set up was installed. In my case it was the master cylinder.
Hmm the master is fairly new, but its not a genuine part, its not leaking though. The clutch engages really low in the pedal now.. im guessing slave or maybe it needs a bleed, I just drove 300km or so on a chip seal and gravel road so it might have moved some air that was in the system.
First try bleeding it and see if that fixes it. If not, it is more than likely the slave cylinder and that will have to be replaced.
Anytime you replace the master you should replace the slave. Diagnostics go bleed, replace slave, replace master. If bleeding doesn't work you replace the slave, then the master if the slave didn't fix it.
May have it figured out, The adjustment nut is backed off on the master cyl, im guessing the push rod backed it self off on the bumpy roads(chipseal), is that possible though?
As I recall, no, it would need to have the pin that attaches it to the pedal removed.
I haven't seen many people have any luck with the aftermarket units. They seem to last for about a year, then start to leak, shortly followed by complete failure. Not an expensive part from the dealer, and paying half as much every year vs shelling out for another one that will last 20 years, well, seems pretty cut and dried to me.
I haven't seen many people have any luck with the aftermarket units. They seem to last for about a year, then start to leak, shortly followed by complete failure. Not an expensive part from the dealer, and paying half as much every year vs shelling out for another one that will last 20 years, well, seems pretty cut and dried to me.
Hmm ok, I was just checking it out and its a bit wet around the seal/push rod.. not like a fully blown one though. Il try bleeding it and see what happens.
If its not the slave, master or flex line what else could it be?
If its not the slave, master or flex line what else could it be?
^ Masters on its way out. Just replaced mine last night. Possibly the easiest thing ive done on this car besides pull the afm off
If you buy aftermarket get one that has a life time warranty like orilleys does.
If you buy aftermarket get one that has a life time warranty like orilleys does.
Yeah, ive done a few master cylinders before, super easy. Was yours doing the same thing as mine? Ive only ever replaced fully blown ones(fluid all over the carpet) haha.
Well, at that point you've only got a VERY few options.Island_Yota;1324177 said:
1. The hardline
2. The clutch itself could have died in some oddball way
I wouldn't rank both of those combined at more than a 1% chance.
mine just had shitty engagement and "rough" pedal feel and travel. The easy give away is the fluid leak. Mine never has leaked enough to be noticed in the res. Just enough to wet the clutch pedal push rod and was clearly visible.
Fixed it, the push rod was able to spin freely with the one lock nut loose. Its pretty much back to normal, engages a little higher up in the pedal but im fine with it, freeplay is good.
The master is weeping a bit at the seal so I might aswell order up an Aisin master and slave.
The master is weeping a bit at the seal so I might aswell order up an Aisin master and slave.
Hmm.. maybe my clutch is dying after all. :icon_mad:
I have the master adjusted pretty far, engagement is near the top of the pedal, freeplay is good, its not slipping yet. Not sure what happened, one day its fine, next the pedal isnt returning and now its engaging so far out.. and im almost out of adjustment.
Out of curiosity whats the best clutch to go with when I do replace it? OEM/Aisin?
I have the master adjusted pretty far, engagement is near the top of the pedal, freeplay is good, its not slipping yet. Not sure what happened, one day its fine, next the pedal isnt returning and now its engaging so far out.. and im almost out of adjustment.
Out of curiosity whats the best clutch to go with when I do replace it? OEM/Aisin?
Davismj711
PA Mountain Supra
If I were you, I would get the master and slave. You need them anyway. Then with 2 new units on there if you still have the problem suspect clutch.
Those 2 items are as others have said a lot easier then doing a clutch R&R.
Those 2 items are as others have said a lot easier then doing a clutch R&R.
Clutch to buy depends on how much torque you're putting out with the engine. If you're still running stock power levels, then a stock clutch is fine.