I searched all the threads but no one has the same issue as mine. My clutch pedal was going to the floor I found out the slave leaks. So I replaced my master/slave clutch lines bled the entire system and everything is nice except the clutch pedal comes up too far before the clutch engages. It goes into every gear just fine, never slips it's just that even if I press the clutch in like 2 inches it starts to disengage so during shifts there is no need to press the pedal in all the way. Any one?
Clutch Pedal comes up too far b4 engaging
- Thread starter V8hntr
- Start date
Under the dash there is adjustment for the clutch it is the whole rod. If you take out the pin at the end of it and turn the whole rod it will adjust the pedal height.
No, don't remove the pin. Loosen the jam nut and turn the shaft to adjust it. Properly pedal freeplay is vital to the life of your clutch (if you're preloading it it will slip).
Cygnus isn't working for me right now or I'd post the page from the TSRM so you know the spec, but I believe the freeplay spec is one inch.
Cygnus isn't working for me right now or I'd post the page from the TSRM so you know the spec, but I believe the freeplay spec is one inch.
Still gotta loosen the jam nut, and the shaft will just turn. I had to remove the pin ONCE because the shop that did my clutch had tons of preload and I couldn't rotate the shaft. Was a major PITA being stuffed under a dash...
the clutch should 'move' a little with barely any force. like its just hanging there.
and when your trying to turn the rod, press on the clutch just a little, and it will turn like NOTHING. i just replaced mine and it only took 45mins for the entire process.
oh yeah, dont unthread it too much of it will undo itsself from theh thing that holds it to the pedal.
and when your trying to turn the rod, press on the clutch just a little, and it will turn like NOTHING. i just replaced mine and it only took 45mins for the entire process.
oh yeah, dont unthread it too much of it will undo itsself from theh thing that holds it to the pedal.
"Freeplay" is the travel where the pedal has no resistance other than the return spring ie: Before it moves the piston in the mastercylinder.
In a push style clutch as the Clutch wears the fingers will close the gap between them and the throwout bearing and eventually this will hold the clutch on and it'll slip.
If you don't have some freeplay at the pedal this happens sooner.
Rennat: In his case he'll be screwing the rod into the Clevis so that's not really an issue.
In a push style clutch as the Clutch wears the fingers will close the gap between them and the throwout bearing and eventually this will hold the clutch on and it'll slip.
If you don't have some freeplay at the pedal this happens sooner.
Rennat: In his case he'll be screwing the rod into the Clevis so that's not really an issue.
does that actually change how late the clutch is actually grabbing when you start to let it out?
on mine you can start letting the pedle up and it wont grab until over half way up if not more. but grabs instantly, 6 puck, pita dd sometimes. is there any way to get it to have a larger window of when it starts to engage and when its fully engaged?
on mine you can start letting the pedle up and it wont grab until over half way up if not more. but grabs instantly, 6 puck, pita dd sometimes. is there any way to get it to have a larger window of when it starts to engage and when its fully engaged?
Nope that's a side effect of a puck clutch most don't have Marcel springs between the friction surfaces to cushion the engagement.
90% of the tech in a modern clutch is to soften the take up and make it nice to drive.
90% of the tech in a modern clutch is to soften the take up and make it nice to drive.
^^ were you succesfull in placing the engagment window in a different spot on the pedal travel?
good stuff IJ, i guess reinventing the wheel only makes it a nicer wheel, nothing new and totally unheard of....
good stuff IJ, i guess reinventing the wheel only makes it a nicer wheel, nothing new and totally unheard of....
grimreaper;1115611 said:
No not really, I loosened the jamnut and turned the rod but it only allows about inch of adjustment so right now the engagement window is only a little bit lower than before. The clutch pedal still comes up further than normal before engagement.
i think ij said its not higher then "normal", thats just the nature of the beast. although im new to 6 pucks and high end performance clutches. used to ferds or audis/beamers that feel like NOTHING when engaging....
let me know how your tinkering goes.....
let me know how your tinkering goes.....
my friend has this same problem in his car, he thinks its because he is using a w58 master cylinder on an r154. what tranny do u have and which master cylinder?
grimreaper;1117786 said:
Ok. the problem is solved. I loosed the jamnuts again and manipulated the clutch pedal to allow the rod to turn freely. Then I could adjust it to engage at alot lower height. Thanks for everyones' input special regards to Rennat and Poodles.
im gona have to mess with mine know. for got all about this.
which way did you turn the rod to drop the engagement height?
which way did you turn the rod to drop the engagement height?
