doing 2jz r154 swap. Hoping to find single plate disc to hold this power. Any suggestions ? Or do I have to go twin plate. Any direction would be appreciated
clutch options 8xx hp ?
- Thread starter turbodriz
- Start date
The use of the car will dictate the clutch you will be able to use.
Anything other then a drag car and I would be looking at a twin plate.
Anything other then a drag car and I would be looking at a twin plate.
IMHO, anything over 500 should go twin or you run such high clamping force that it wears the thrust bearings in the engine.
Multiplate will also be more reliable as most of the crazy single plates have issues.
Multiplate will also be more reliable as most of the crazy single plates have issues.
Tilton twin disc setups I've heard are very streetable and hold great power. I have no personal experience with them, yet.
Myself, I bought a SPEC twin disc. Set me back about $1600 or so, but I know it will last a lot longer than 3 clutches that *might* hold the power I'll be putting out, and I don't have to do two extra clutch jobs.
From experience with a friend's 500+whp setup, just do it right the first time and buy a multi disc clutch.
From experience with a friend's 500+whp setup, just do it right the first time and buy a multi disc clutch.
that was my thought. Don't want to do it twice. Thanks for the confirmation fellaste72;1906541 said:Myself, I bought a SPEC twin disc. Set me back about $1600 or so, but I know it will last a lot longer than 3 clutches that *might* hold the power I'll be putting out, and I don't have to do two extra clutch jobs.
From experience with a friend's 500+whp setup, just do it right the first time and buy a multi disc clutch.
how has this clutch been for you so far?
I have the same one and have put roughly 4000Km on it and had no issues so far. The engagement is fairly quick but with a manageable pedal weight I dont find it bad. I also daily drive this car.
I have the same one and have put roughly 4000Km on it and had no issues so far. The engagement is fairly quick but with a manageable pedal weight I dont find it bad. I also daily drive this car.
Were you referring to me? If so, I haven't put even a single mile on it yet. Hoping to have this car running and driving in a couple months. When you guys see what all is involved, it should make sense why it's taken so long.customs;1946458 said:
I am running a clutch masters 850 series twin disk. I will say it is a quality unit. Clutchmasters can build these units to handle whatever power you want to throw at it, the custom build each unit for the application.
One thing I would recomend to anyone contemplating this unit is to also use their FCV2000. (It is an one way orifice to give a constant release rate.) With the new hydraulic push type release unit and the clutch master cylinder bore without the valve it will be like a light switch. Literally clutch fully engaged or disengaged within a 1/8".
One thing I would recomend to anyone contemplating this unit is to also use their FCV2000. (It is an one way orifice to give a constant release rate.) With the new hydraulic push type release unit and the clutch master cylinder bore without the valve it will be like a light switch. Literally clutch fully engaged or disengaged within a 1/8".
I'm installing that same CM 850 unit right now. Are you using the FCV? What does it feel like? Do you still ease the pedal with it, or just pop it out and let the FCV deal with it? Does it affect quick shifts when you're already moving too?
te72;1906541 said:Myself, I bought a SPEC twin disc. Set me back about $1600 or so, but I know it will last a lot longer than 3 clutches that *might* hold the power I'll be putting out, and I don't have to do two extra clutch jobs.
From experience with a friend's 500+whp setup, just do it right the first time and buy a multi disc clutch.
^This.
Also, the SPEC kit converts from a push to a pull. So, for ~$1600 you get everything (clutch master, lines, etc...) and it's a bolt on affair. At that power, don't even mess with anything but a multi-disc setup.
GrimJack;1947920 said:
With the CM 850 I would recommend everyone to use the FCV2000. Yes I am running it now, you can slip it out easily and makes the unit streetable after 1st just dump it and the valve will take care of the rest. Without the valve it is not really slippable or streetable in my opinion(literally like a light switch). I am also running a dual racing, unsprung, full metallic disks for drag racing.
Just read about this tech in GRM this afternoon, rather cool stuff. Might look into it on a future clutch swap, perhaps if the Mk2 ever needs one.GrimJack;1947920 said:
Thanks for the review man. So if I understand it correctly, you dump the clutch, and it doesn't bog or rip the tires to shreds, it modulates how much power to let through and takes the effort/skill out of learning to launch? Sounds like a pretty nice setup to me.mark1987supra;1948090 said:
I figure I'll order one. What the hell, not like it's a drop in the bucket compared to the clutch!
Another option is to run a linlock inline with the clutch line, and bypass around it with an 1/8 inch flow control. A lot finer adjustment, about half the money and when used with an aftermarket ecu, you can program an output based on vss, so only first gear gets restricted.
nathaninwa;1948581 said:
Most linelock's recommend less than 60 seconds of use, ie. there purpose just for a burnout. Short time period not sitting at a long stop light for 3 minutes, you would probably burn through more line lock solenoids over time then the FCV costs.
Back to the CM850 unit I would probably lengthen the input line into the hydraulic throwout bearing by 2-3 inches. It will put the bleeder line in an upright position to catch all the air. I will post up picks this week of how I mounted and ran everything.
te72;1948457 said:
No you want to run the biggest orifice possible as to not burn up the clutches. I am running the biggest a .005 in my recollection, and it is perfect. If you run to small of an orifice during shifts it will wear the clutches out fast. The restriction is only really needed launching and still you should slip the clutch out as not to roast the tires. In every other shift the larger orifice will engage the clutches faster, for faster shits. The valve will only restrict in engagement, not release. Larger orifice faster engagement, and smaller orifice slower engagement.