Clutch Issue *Pics*

[XofXtimeX]

Well last night after somewhat of a spirited launch (4K RPM slipped, NOT dumped) the clutch stopped engaging altogether. I haven't had any issues with the clutch before this.

The pedal still has pressure however the clutch will not engage or disengage. So today I jacked it up, took the inspection plate off and had someone push the clutch in and I took comparison pictures. I can't tell whether or not it's enough for the clutch to function so hopefully some others will be able to chime in.

Clutch not pushed in:

Clutch pushed in:

I already searched for some clutch issues and I've boiled it down to either slave cylinder (fingers crossed), release bearing or the clutch just went out all together.

Any opinions welcome!

P.S. Its a South Bend Stage 3 OFE (IIRC) full face clutch. Has about 15-18k miles on it. I have not noticed any signs of wear before this happened.

Thanks!!!

-Nick-

 

[charman02]

Try bleeding your clutch hydraulic system first before any purchase? Check for fluid leaks below your clutch pedal also.

 

[XofXtimeX]

Well, upon further inspection I've realized that the clutch is acting as if the pedal is being pushed down on the floor constantly and the slave cylinder seems to be working just fine.

When the car is off, I can put the transmission into any gear without a problem WITHOUT pressing the clutch in. I never used to be able to do that. Meaning that when the transmission was working, and the car was off, I was never really able to put the transmission into gear without pushing the clutch in.

I may not be explaining that in the best way so if there is anything that's unclear, please let me know.

Thanks!

-Nick-

 

[RockPaperSwoRD]

your clutch disc melted onto the flywheel. im not joking.
this happened to me before and i was using the same exact sound bend clutch. the problem is the feramic material.. its a really good clutch but feramic doesnt like to be slipped and overheats and melts.
look up feramic on google and you will see what i mean

this happened to me after i did a burn out...
try turning the engine through the inspection cover(TAKE OFF YOUR EFI FUSE) until you can see the flywheel/ disc thru the pressure plate. then have someone press the clutch pedal while you watch.
if your clutch is still good, you should see the disc separate from the flywheel. i wouldnt crosss my fingers though..

sorry man its a pain in the ass but youre gonna have to swap it out..

 

[XofXtimeX]

your clutch disc melted onto the flywheel. im not joking.
this happened to me before and i was using the same exact sound bend clutch. the problem is the feramic material.. its a really good clutch but feramic doesnt like to be slipped and overheats and melts.
look up feramic on google and you will see what i mean

this happened to me after i did a burn out...
try turning the engine through the inspection cover(TAKE OFF YOUR EFI FUSE) until you can see the flywheel/ disc thru the pressure plate. then have someone press the clutch pedal while you watch.
if your clutch is still good, you should see the disc separate from the flywheel. i wouldnt crosss my fingers though..

sorry man its a pain in the ass but youre gonna have to swap it out..

That's exactly what I was afraid of... In case that's really what it is, what's the best plan of attack? Just tilting the engine back (after the mounts are unbolted and all other necessary parts) and getting to the bolts like that? Or should I just pull the engine and transmission both?

Tomorrow I should be able to check on that for sure.

Thanks!

-Nick-

 

[funky_monkey58]

Another issue I have seen with the southbend clutches is the three metal "straps' that act as springs on the pressure plate have been known to fail.

 

[Supra_Villan]

well...this was not the update i was looking for on this car....
make me happy god damn it!! MORE GOOD VIDS AND PICS LOL...sorry to hear about the clutch man. Good luck.






but seriously..
happy updates.

 

[lintlars]

You can get by prying the clutch disk away from the flywheel if its not to stuck I had the same issue with a fullface feramic so have MANY OTHERS go with the 6 puck version still very streetable also stay away from the AL FW with this type of clutch material Stock FW works best

 

[wardog]

My suggestion is to take out the PP bolts and pry it apart. Just be careful when you try to separate the disk. I have done this before in TX2K7, my copper ceramic disk melted to the flywheel. I did the above and the clutch was still good. Good luck

 

[RockPaperSwoRD]

what i did was keep the same pressure plate(was still good) and just bought a 6 puck disc from driftmotion for like ~$150 the biggest pain in the ass is gettin the shaft from the trans to insert into clutch hub. you gotta rotate the trans almost on its side and once its in the hole, spin it again to line up with the car

 

[gaboonviper85]

what i did was keep the same pressure plate(was still good) and just bought a 6 puck disc from driftmotion for like ~$150 the biggest pain in the ass is gettin the shaft from the trans to insert into clutch hub. you gotta rotate the trans almost on its side and once its in the hole, spin it again to line up with the car

On an r154 you can put the pressure plate and disk on the trans first then all you have too do is line up the shaft too the pilot bearing.....you did it the hard way....

 

[Zach]

what i did was keep the same pressure plate(was still good) and just bought a 6 puck disc from driftmotion for like ~$150 the biggest pain in the ass is gettin the shaft from the trans to insert into clutch hub. you gotta rotate the trans almost on its side and once its in the hole, spin it again to line up with the car

You do know that you can bolt up the pressure plate AFTER you install the transmission. A hundred times easier to install the trans. if you do it afterward.

 

[Poodles]

That's why you don't assemble the flywheel/clutch/pressureplate on the motor. Put the PP and clutch disk on the tranny shaft, put the tranny in, and then tighten the PP to flywheel through the inspection plates (like in the TSRM)

EDIT: damn you guys are quick :rofl:

 

[gaboonviper85]

like in the TSRM

what's that?



Lol

 

[XofXtimeX]

Well... I put the rear up on jack stands, started it in gear and slammed on the brakes once it was up to speed. No luck. Higher RPM and no luck. And so on and so forth with no luck.

I guess now I have to get balls enough to drop the car

I spoke with southbend, I'm waiting a response.

I suppose thats the other way to do it, if I can't separate it.

Thanks for the help gentlemen!

-Nick-

 

[Poodles]

Gonna have to pry it apart...

 

[XofXtimeX]

How would you guys recommend prying it? Pry bar with a cloth to minimize damage? The pressure plate wouldn't necessarily be too difficult to get off correct? Just seems like a tight fit.

Thanks again guys.

-Nick-

 

[nick88]

You could take the c-clip off of the throwout arm and the trans slides off with the pressure plate still on the flywheel.

To take the pressure plate off of the flywheel to pry the clutch, there are six bolts and it comes off. Pry the clutch off make sure it is still useable and bolt pressure plate up using the right torque and sequence.

 

[Poodles]

There isn't enough room under the car to get the snout of the tranny into the throwout bearing hub and through the clutch. This is why clutch kits for our cars don't come with clutch alignment tools...

 

[funky_monkey58]

There isn't enough room under the car to get the snout of the tranny into the throwout bearing hub and through the clutch. This is why clutch kits for our cars don't come with clutch alignment tools...

Weird every clutch kit I have seen had an alignment tool.

Just saying.