Clutch Help!

supraman502

not lazy, just dont care
Apr 8, 2005
326
0
16
46
louisville, KY
I searched and could find some similar threads, but not the same.

I just installed a hpfreaks bronze clutch with a act pressure plate.

When I start the car it wont go into gear and makes a grinding noise when trying to put it in reverse, but doesnt go into gear.

I've bled the piss out of the lines, slave cylinder and master cylinder are less than a year old, neither of them are leaking.

throwout bearing and all clips are less than a year old

any ideas??
 

supraman502

not lazy, just dont care
Apr 8, 2005
326
0
16
46
louisville, KY
some extra info, I'm 110% the clutch disc is in the correct way.

Also, first start once it was in, some knucklehead left the socket and wrench on the crank bolt, as soon as I heard it whipped around and crack the fan shroud I turned the car off and the bolt was loose.
 

peteyturbo

New Member
Feb 2, 2007
59
0
0
Philadelphia
Check the operation of the pivot fork when you depress the pedal, make sure the slave pushes it fully..Sometimes it can be caused by using a heavy pressure plate with worn hydraulics..If everything looks good and it still locks you out of gears it means the clutch is partially dis engaging..Sometimes you can fix that by adjusting the mechanizim of the master cyl rod, just be sure not to pre load the clutch..
 

boltz

New Member
Jun 17, 2005
111
0
0
Van
If R154 make sure through the inspection cover that you see the clutch collar being pulled almost all the way back on the shaft.
 

supraman502

not lazy, just dont care
Apr 8, 2005
326
0
16
46
louisville, KY
peteyturbo said:
Check the operation of the pivot fork when you depress the pedal, make sure the slave pushes it fully..Sometimes it can be caused by using a heavy pressure plate with worn hydraulics..If everything looks good and it still locks you out of gears it means the clutch is partially dis engaging..Sometimes you can fix that by adjusting the mechanizim of the master cyl rod, just be sure not to pre load the clutch..

how do I adjust that?
 

supraman502

not lazy, just dont care
Apr 8, 2005
326
0
16
46
louisville, KY
if your talking about adjusting the pedal, I've already done that. I think the book says it should be somewhere between 6.25-6.5"? I've got it as far out as it will go and its still only about 5.25-5.5", with about .5-1" of play at the top.
 

s turbo 87

Accepting Donations
Apr 5, 2005
184
0
0
35
Louisville, KY
FWIW, compared to my clutch pedal, supraman's feels horrible...its got about an inch or more of free play before you can feel pressure in the pedal. then when it hits the floor it still seems like it needs to go further...
feels like it needs to be bled, but like he said, we bled it probably close to 40 times lol.
 

s turbo 87

Accepting Donations
Apr 5, 2005
184
0
0
35
Louisville, KY
billspreston01 said:
I'm with peteyturbo. Take the drivers side inspection plate off and look in there while somebody presses the pedal to see if the pressure plate is fully disengaging.
okay and if its not, then what?
 

supraman502

not lazy, just dont care
Apr 8, 2005
326
0
16
46
louisville, KY
boltz said:
sounds like it still needs bleeding or it is time for new hydraulics

both the master and clutch cylinder are less than a year old and theres no other signs that they need to be replaced. We did measure the distance the fork is moving the bearing and then looked at my friends stock distance, its about 1/2 inch difference
 

boltz

New Member
Jun 17, 2005
111
0
0
Van
that can and probably is the reason so you must have air in there still.

Try letting it gravity bleed then pump a few times then go back at having someone press and hold the clutch down and crack open the bleeder enough so the fork slowly moves and close before the fork stops moving to prevent letting air back in. Repeat until a ful master cyl is 1/4 full and top up.

be sure not to let it run out of fluid tho.
 

peteyturbo

New Member
Feb 2, 2007
59
0
0
Philadelphia
I'd reccomend buying a vacum bleeder as well..They are cheap and work great with one person..
A 1/2 inch of travel at the fork is a considerable amount..
press the clutch in and out before bleeding to free any bubbles that might be stuck inside, and do not use synthetic brake fluid, regular works best for clutch hydraulics..
Good luck..
 

mkiiSupraMan18

Needs a new username...
Apr 1, 2005
2,161
0
0
United States
If you want smooth shifting put in a w58... :icon_bigg

If you put it in first gear then shift to reverse does it still do it?

I second the gravity bleed. loosen that thing up and let 'er sit for a few hours w/ a full resevoir.

*edit*
If you have a rubber line, maybe it's on it's way out and it's balooning out when you push the pedal in?
 

supraman502

not lazy, just dont care
Apr 8, 2005
326
0
16
46
louisville, KY
I put a new stainless clutch line on along with the new clutch. I've got the heavy duty act pressure plate, would that cause any issues?
 

supraman502

not lazy, just dont care
Apr 8, 2005
326
0
16
46
louisville, KY
master cylinder needed to be adjusted, fixed that problem, but opened another.

shifter great for a few days and now the clutch doesnt engage til the pedal is almost all the way up, the longer a drive it the worse it gets. So bad that by the time I made it home today, if I gave it more than like 8% throttle, it would slip, any ideas??