Clutch/Clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder problems. HALP.

[LunaVyohr]

Alright, so these last couple of days, my clutch pedal has started to feel spongy. Tonight, on a 130 mile round trip, I started having serious clutch problems. The clutch pedal itself developed a huge amount of free play, and wouldn't engage unless I pressed it to the absolute bottom of the floor. Also, the pedal stopped coming back up, and I had to put my foot behind the pedal to make it come back. It became harder and harder to get into gear (by the end of the night, it was damn near impossible), and it grinds trying to go into reverse.

I'm pretty sure this is a problem with my master cylinder and slave cylinder. I'm REALLY hoping it's not the clutch itself going out. Thoughts? I need to be sure what my problem is before I spend money.

 

[GrimJack]

Check the clutch fluid level in the engine compartment to see if it is low.

If it is, you need to find out whether it's low due to clutch wear, or low because there is a leak. From your description, I'd say a leak sounds probable. Check for wetness on the clutch master in the engine compartment and from the passenger cabin on the firewall behind the pedal. Check the slave on the transmission underneath the car as well.

If one of these is leaking, pick up new ones from Toyota. There are generic replacements, however, they don't appear to have anywhere near the same longevity that genuine Toyota parts do in this case - the generics seem to last a year or so, the Toyota parts last 20-25 years. Also, I always suggest replacing both at once, as putting in a fresh part at one end always seems to cause the old part at the other end to throw in the towel in disgust, and this way you only have to work on it, and bleed it, once.

If there are no leaks and your fluid level is fine, you're likely looking at a new clutch.

 

[Kai]

I would guess that its either a leaky slave cylinder, or the pipework/hoses have just perished - either way, it's not hard to replace, and these are the parts that cover the entire clutch hydraulic system.

Clutch Master Cylinder = 31410-14201, cost $108.99
Clutch Master Cylinder to Firewall gasket = No Longer Available - have to make one from gasket paper, try and avoid re-using an old one.
Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild kit = $34.79

Clutch Release Cylinder = 31470-22090, cost $47.45
Clutch Release Cylinder Seal & Boot kit (if you want to overhaul it) = 04313-26020, cost $12.66

Master Cylinder pipework to flexi hose = 31481-14190, cost $22.61
Slave Cylinder flexi hose to master cylinder pipework = 96812-50350, cost $27.75

That's based on your 7M-GE with a W58. All prices and part numbers verified by toyotapartszone.com

 

[LunaVyohr]

Update:

Checked my clutch fluid resevoir? Fucking empty. Bone dry.

Checked behind the clutch pedal, and on the firewall behind the carpet, fluid was leaking down.

Yeup. Time for a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc.

Do any of you guys know of any good threads that have information to help me do this? If I can do it myself, I will. But, I'm not mechanically inclined, so I might need to take it to a mechanic.

 

[Scruggs86.5T]

I have a brand new one for sale in the classified!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[LunaVyohr]

I have a brand new one for sale in the classified!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Is it an OEM one/W58?

 

[GrimJack]

It's not a terribly difficult job. It's very well documented in the TSRM here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CL&P=6

There are only a couple things I'd add to that.

1. To get at the clutch master nuts, I pull off the switch panel to the left of the steering column, then use several extensions and feed them in through the switch panel slot. Beats lying on your back with your head under the pedals.

2. The clutch fluid that's spilled all over your firewall and floor is nasty stuff - it'll eat paint and corrode the steel underneath. Luckily it's not that hard to clean off, soap and water will work fine. Still, it means you're going to have to pull your carpet / sound deadening back and wash the firewall and floor thoroughly.

 

[tfhorst]

And don't forget to bleed your clutch, those air bubbles will mess with you. I was able to burp my last clutch but there is no way of knowing if you got all the air out that way.

 

[destrux]

Bleeding a clutch is just like bleeding brakes, except the pedal won't come up by itself when you first start bleeding the system (you have to reach down and pull it up by hand). Two people make it an easy job.

 

[Poodles]

You can bypass the dealer and buy aisin parts usually for far cheaper. Rockauto carries Aisin. Master is $54.79, Slave is $16.53, and if you want to replace the hose, they have a Dorman for $13.16 or you can buy a braided stainless steel one from one of the other vendors.

Clutch system is tiny and easy to bleed. Just gravity bleeding can get the job done in most cases.

You absolutely MUST set clutch pedal freeplay after replacing the parts though. It's covered in the TSRM.

 

[LunaVyohr]

Ordered the parts from Rockauto today. Hopefully, they should be here by Monday.