clutch bleeding help

[sweetlikechutny]

Hey all,

I just did a clutch job and replaced the master, slave and lines with a hard line. Using the procedure in the tsrm to bleed the clutch. I tried with the top off and on on the master cylinder but only made a difference with it off.

pump the clutch, hold it down then open the valve to let out the air, repeat. Am I missing something here?

The clutch feel has gotten better, and the pedal rebounds on its own but there is no resistance until I near the bottom of the stroke, very loose hondaish feel to it.

I checked the stroke of the slave cylinder, it moves around 1cm.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

 

[snake eyes]

prob a lot of air in the line, but ya pump 5 times and hold and loosen the slave may of gotten a bad part too (rare but does happen)

 

[SupaMan]

Mine was a bitch, We had to fight with it for a good 30 minutes of pumping and bleeding before it actually started to feel better. How we finally got it was we cracked the bleeder barely and i had him keep pumping it, It worked after about 5-10 pumps. Then i cranked the bleeder down and went about it normally, The first 5-10 pumps after that the system was air free.

Hope this helps.

 

[OneJArpus]

pump the clutch, hold it down then open the valve to let out the air, repeat. Am I missing something here?
You stated hold it down then open valve, TSRM says to press pedal down while opening valve.


From my understanding and this is how i did it

Pump clutch up, open valve then press the pedal down, close valve then lift pedal up. Check fluid level repeat til all air is out.

Check engagement of clutch pedal and adjust height as needed. No issues what so ever with my clutch.

Side note: I also started with a fully dry system as i upgraded master, slave, and braided clutch line in one shot. Try the way i did it with help from a friend and i'm sure you'll be done in less then 5 minutes. No way should it take 10+ minutes to do such a simple bleeding. Bleeding my brakes wasn't even that hard and thats 4 corners to do.

I've also read of people doing gravity bleeds. Open valve pour fluid in, when you see a steady stream of fluid coming out close valve, pump a few times, open valve, depress pedal, close valve, raise pedal then pump and check engagement. I've also used this method on supra's.

 

[sweetlikechutny]

I think I may have been successful in bleeding the clutch without knowing it as I had an improperly installed setup earlier and the r154 in the soarer has an stiff pressure plate and 6 puck. I just don't remember how a stock r154 in good nick feels.

Is 1cm of movement in the slave normal?

 

[Scott 88-1JZ]

1cm doesn't seem like much, that is less than .5" but that may be all it takes. Does the piston move as soon as you press the pedal or does the pedal go down some before it moves? Could be air or the piston inside isn't retracting all the way. I had to fight mine for a while and I had a completely drained system as well. When you crack the bleeder with the pedal down do you get a nice constant stream of fluid?

 

[SuPrADr1Ft786]

I been having the same issue except mines doesn't want to rebound back, and it builds some pressure but not too much, been doing this for the past hour, what am I doing wrong here, brand new slave and master cylinder, should i just keep trying???

 

[sweetlikechutny]

1cm doesn't seem like much, that is less than .5" but that may be all it takes. Does the piston move as soon as you press the pedal or does the pedal go down some before it moves? Could be air or the piston inside isn't retracting all the way. I had to fight mine for a while and I had a completely drained system as well. When you crack the bleeder with the pedal down do you get a nice constant stream of fluid?

When I measued the 1cm stroke the pedal was well past half before it engages. Now there is very little movement before I feel resistance but I have not measued the stroke on the slave cylinder. I will check tomorrow, but I think I have it well now. I just think I have a lot of freeplay and am not sure how to correct that. I am able to adjust the height quite easily with the adjustment nut but not the freeplay.

---------- Post added at 12:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 AM ----------

1cm doesn't seem like much, that is less than .5" but that may be all it takes. Does the piston move as soon as you press the pedal or does the pedal go down some before it moves? Could be air or the piston inside isn't retracting all the way. I had to fight mine for a while and I had a completely drained system as well. When you crack the bleeder with the pedal down do you get a nice constant stream of fluid?

Also, I do get a full stream of liquid when I crack the bleeder, no air at all