Climate Control Unit

[F_T_F]

so ive had my supra now for about 2 years, and it has developed this rather annoying problem with the climate control unit. when ever i go to switch any of the settings the button wont say, it will just pop back out and go to the automatic setting, it gets very annoying when i need to defrost the windows. anyway is there a way to fix this or should i just look into another unit?

 

[nhum]

Carefully take the unit apart. Spary switch with electronic parts cleaner. I used STONER ELECTRO KLEENE 142. Don't know where to get it though. I got mine from my company. Hope this help.

 

[CRE]

It is possible the switches are clogged with debris. The latching mechanism is external. I've found that more often than not the catch on the plastic actuator is worm down to the point that the spring loaded brass plate has nothing to grab. Either way, you'll need to disassemble the unit to find out what's going on. The CC can be rebuilt, but it is a considerable amount of work.

I see you're in CO. PM me if you need assistance.

 

[duffer26]

I'm in Colorado as well and there is one at A-1 auto salvage i just got the exhaust out of today the control panel is still there and in not to bad of condition as well

it is a silver button type

 

[CRE]

He's got a '90, the silver faced ones are pre89 and as the buttons are prone to peeling they're much less desirable.

Where is A-1? Not finding them in Dex. Do they have more than 1 MKIII?

 

[JesseH]

It is possible the switches are clogged with debris. The latching mechanism is external. I've found that more often than not the catch on the plastic actuator is worm down to the point that the spring loaded brass plate has nothing to grab. Either way, you'll need to disassemble the unit to find out what's going on. The CC can be rebuilt, but it is a considerable amount of work.

I see you're in CO. PM me if you need assistance.

You can also use CRC electric contact cleaner....they sell it at lowes and home depotor any electrical contractor supply. Its used for cleaning electrical connections and circut boards, about 7$ a can

 

[CRE]

Cleaner doesn't fix stripped parts. Besides, his issue isn't that when the button is pressed the CC doesn't respond (at least from what I understood), the buttons aren't latching in the depressed position.

Open the CC and take a look at the base of the button actuators. If they're just packed full of dust simply clean the latching areas out with a toothpick. If they're stripped you'll need to either rebuild the unit or replace it. No need to spray it with anything, perhaps a little "canned air".

There's one other thing you could check if ALL the buttons refuse to stay down. There's a tiny spring inset into the top metal plate which holds the latch in place over the switches. It's U shaped and it's located in a small cutout rectange in the top metal plate. If that's missing or damaged the latch plate won't move.

 

[duffer26]

OK didn't know his year ya the silver is kinda crappy but it works till i find a better one

is their ad they are in the springs they have 2 in the yard at the moment not much left but always something to pick over more like i did today i went and got the stock exhaust manifold and down pipe and the rite rear trim for $13 :icon_razz

one 7M ready to pull motor prices are $99 + $20 core they are a set price yard

 

[CRE]

They're also a great source for parts... for rebuilding a 89+ CC! lol

 

[F_T_F]

yea got it out the tabs are worn, thing ill be searching on e-bay theres gotta be on somewhere and ive seen a couple MKIII at colorado autosalvage thing ill stop in there.

 

[Figit090]

on the topic....

is the CC supposed to reset to 75 every time you turn the car off? that kinda annoys me....

i think thats part of the reason buttons wear out so fast...you have to fool with it every time you start the car...where as a dial would stay there and be an easy one-touch change.

oh well.

 

[CRE]

is the CC supposed to reset to 75 every time you turn the car off?

No, it's not.

 

[Figit090]

SHIT.

 

[chedderknight]

LoL

 

[CRE]

The 20A Dome circuit supplies the red wire running to the CC with a constant 12v, I suspect that's what keeps the setting in the memory.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=140

 

[Figit090]

The 20A Dome circuit supplies the red wire running to the CC with a constant 12v, I suspect that's what keeps the setting in the memory.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=140

hmmm...thanks.

could this have anything to do with the lights on my ignition keyhole not working?

what's the "dome" circuit refer to exactly? "dome" lights?

 

[CRE]

hmmm...thanks.

could this have anything to do with the lights on my ignition keyhole not working?

what's the "dome" circuit refer to exactly? "dome" lights?

Well, there are a number of things which get power from the 20A Dome circuit, including the dome lights, courtesy lights, the clock, etc. First thing I'd check is the fuse.

I should be more specific about the clock. I think the clock may actually run on the voltage from dome circuit and the display is powered by the ignition. So, the clock is always running, just not the display. I may be wrong, but either way the Dome circuit is what feeds the clock while the car is off.

 

[Figit090]

THANK YOU! because i've had some glitches.... here they are just for kicks:

-dome lights on the headliner went out a few times...slapped them with my hand and they came back on. did that twice

-bought the car, clock worked. havent seen it on since

-ignition key light only worked sporatically for a few weeks a couple months ago. havent driven at night enough to notice if it still blips. seemed to be influenced by unlocking my steering wheel to get in and out.

-my car alarm has never worked (dunno if that is even remotely connected..doubt it...but it adds to my electric gremlin list D)

i dont know how i'm going to go about finding whats wrong. i'm not good with car electronics yet...no experiance really.

 

[CRE]

Guess where the security system draws it's power from?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=122

As for testing, grab a multimeter and test the voltage coming from that circuit (just connect the ground lead on the multimeter to a known, good chassis ground). I'd probably start by testing the voltage at the 20A Dome fuse holder. If there's no voltage on ond of the two connections then you start working back toward the battery, if one of them does have 12v then you move along into the dash harness... in this case I'd probably start with testing at the junction blocks.

 

[Figit090]

wow...no kidding.

heh...i just accedentally discovered a lot! thanks man. maybe this week i'll be able to test that stuff.

as long as there isnt any significant danger of it causing a fire or something i'm not in a big hurry to fix it...obviously i have gotten used to it.

this couldnt by any chance cause my engine to run funny could it? i have to ask, seeing as i had no idea the alarm was on the same power source. where is that dome fuse? i know my stereo fuse is blown (but i have no stereo)