Click click, BANG!!!!

Flateric

New Member
Mar 26, 2008
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I have less vibration if anything in my example anyways.

I did a bunch of research of both the steel and the aluminium shafts and of course there is a wide variety of opinions either way.

One thing that everyone seem to agree upon is that 80-90% of driveshaft failures *usually* occur on the big end of a run. Meaning at the end of the strip. I cannot comment or give opinion at all about road racing, rallying etc.

Alot of the domestic muscle car guys around here tell me the choose aluminium theselves for a few reasons. It tends to "give" a little more than a steel shaft which they believe leads to longer life and better overall for the driveline. They also would prefer to have a shaft made of aluminium if it is going to fail as less damage is done from an aluminium shaft than steel. (Although they prefer, if you can afford it, carbon over both, due to the fact it turns into cloth essentially if it fails). And finally this is drivetrain rotational weight we are talking about here, which is by far the best weight to lose.

But I also noticed reduced wheel hop after the upgrade, I spectualate this may be due to the lack of a center bearing mounted in rubber that I feel may tend to flex upwards or move under high torque situations.

Also in comparison to a stock two piece shaft the aluminium one is dramatically lighter. Either way I think the change to a onepiece regardless of steel or aluminium or carbon fiber for that matter is a win and win situation. Especially considering the shaft you have in you car now is likely 20 years old or very close to it. It should probably atleast be looked at just for your own piece of mind.

Bottom line here is listen to our driveline expert dude, he's really got the only opinion that really counts here and more than likely not going to lead you wrong. I would put the most weight on this because he is first hand telling us, and no hearsay or 2nd or 3rd person down the line info.
 

airhead04

New Member
Aug 21, 2009
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Lima, Ohio, United States
Sorry guys for the leaf spring thing, Im guessing that is wrong...lol Im a noob at transmissions.

I had my stepdad drive it, and he thinks its the c bearing as well. So Im thinking of going one piece. lol
 

airhead04

New Member
Aug 21, 2009
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Lima, Ohio, United States
BOOSTEDSUPRA;1465072 said:
ok first.. leafspring?!? *scratches head*

and second that sounds like a definate d shaft, VERY easy to diagnose, jack it up and check it, there should be NO play in the joints and VERY MINIMAL in the c bearing. a single piece steel shaft made from .065 or .083 (your choice) wall d.o.m. tubing will run you bout 310-320 from my shop. shipped. screw the old million pound 2 piece

How heavy is the one piece steel d shaft you have?
 

grimreaper

New Member
Jul 2, 2008
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Dallas
late model dodge pick ups come with aluminum on the 4dr, 2wd platfrom. There have been sub 12's passes on spray and daily ass beatings with turbo's and superchergers (think TQ) as well as NA's with cams (my setup) with most hitting 100,000 miles (130,000 right now for me). What its made out of has minimal to do with it considering the output of most mkiii's. Who put it together and how well it was built is what i would consider... the stock driveshaft on the trucks makes a coke can look thick by the way... you can literally peel the layers off the shaft if you split it. TO add they weigh in at over 5000 pounds.
 

BOOSTEDSUPRA

THE DRIVELINE GUY
Jan 4, 2007
308
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turlock, calif
airhead04;1465515 said:
How heavy is the one piece steel d shaft you have?


the one i built in my car is 3x.083 and is 22 pounds. shipped wil cost you 315-320 depending on if you want servicable or non servicable joints from spicer.

i recomend the non servicable spicer snaptights. much stonger than greasable due to the solid u joint body.
 

BOOSTEDSUPRA

THE DRIVELINE GUY
Jan 4, 2007
308
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0
turlock, calif
ForcedTorque;1465305 said:
Haven't there been plenty of new vibrations found after installing a 1 piece?


if the driveline is not true in its circular circumfrance then it could have a harmonic vibration ither under a load or at speed, regardless if its balanced or not.

if a driveline is made without "d.o.m." or "drawn over mandrel" tubing then the chances for a structual failure and or a vibration are much greater.

for an example, the chevy s-10 or sonoma's have a 2 piece d-line with the rear half consisting of a double c.v. or "constant velosity" joint. the way these trucks are set up from the factory 9 out of 10 times the rear part of the drive line "closest to the rear end" blows out.

i replace the back half of the driveline with a standard 2 joint shaft. (one joint at each end instead of 2".

my point is when your altering something that comes one way to a totally differnt set-up, it has to be perfectly straight and very well balanced or yes, you culd get a vibration.

ok, ive :blah: enough :biglaugh:
 

airhead04

New Member
Aug 21, 2009
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Lima, Ohio, United States
super.secret.supra.club;1465876 said:
took you long enough to lift the car instead of asking so many questions. turns out it was just a center bearing.

buy a new one. 200 from toyota

Lol, yea yea, I go to school and its been raining so its kind of hard to lift the car up without getting soaked or finding time (excuses excuses I know)

But I might as well save another 150 bucks and get a a 1 piece driveshaft instead of buying a 200 dollar part that will brake in half after my rebuild.
 

airhead04

New Member
Aug 21, 2009
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Lima, Ohio, United States
BOOSTEDSUPRA;1465873 said:
the one i built in my car is 3x.083 and is 22 pounds. shipped wil cost you 315-320 depending on if you want servicable or non servicable joints from spicer.

i recomend the non servicable spicer snaptights. much stonger than greasable due to the solid u joint body.

Well thanks for the offer man, but my mom actually just ordered one for me right now. Thanks alot though. And thanks for the help.