Cleaning cylinder walls before assembly

[87witmoreboost]

I got my motor back from the machine shop uncleaned (by my foolish request). I had a friend with a steam pressure washer and due to a miscommunication thought it would save me hundreds of dollars. Well, it didn't.

I washed the motor out (very thoroughly) and as SOON as the water dried (minutes), the entire motor surface rusted. I ended up spraying it down again and coating it with oil and wd-40. It looked fine after that, but my cylinders still had a hint of surface rust. Before rusting, the original honing marks from the factory were still clear and visible. Now that it has a thin coat, the hone marks can't be seen anymore.

Does anyone have any recommendations for how I should clean the cylinder walls? Maybe a specific cleaner/specific towel/specific pad. I guess i'd like to know that a common degreaser with a soft scotch brite, followed by water and soap would be o.k.

 

[benchwarmer]

Scrub it with a stiff bristle brush then re-hone it, clean with brake cleaner, and coat with oil. Never put water on unpainted iron.

 

[gofastgeorge]

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it, unless you let it sit for a week or so, and it REALLY rusted.

If you can knock the rust off with a fine wire brush, and the hone marks reappear, your safe.
I suggest a 2-3" fine wire wheel (like .007" wire size), some WD-40, and a electric drill.
A few strokes up & down the walls will clear it up.
It will not 'look' just like it came back from the machine shop, as iron oxide will darken the surface a little, but dimensionally it will be fine.
After all, gun blue is nothing more than a controlled rust........

But if you go over it, and it reveals pits.........
Well, that's the pits.
You may have to look at the next oversize pistons, and another hone job.

Pictures would have been nice.

 

[suprarich]

Mineral Spirits in a tank washer is what I use to clean a block after machine work is finished. Then a anti rust coating that works with the time frame before the block will be assembled and used. A shop should only charge 30 to 50 dollars to wash the block after machining, so not much to save by doing it yourself.

 

[87witmoreboost]

Mineral Spirits in a tank washer is what I use to clean a block after machine work is finished. Then a anti rust coating that works with the time frame before the block will be assembled and used. A shop should only charge 30 to 50 dollars to wash the block after machining, so not much to save by doing it yourself.

I will first try mineral spirits and a cloth. I think that will take care of it. If not, I will go to a fine drill brush.

The confusion with cleaning cost was the shop quoting a total of $300 for bake/blast/clean, which I stated I would do myself. They had already baked/blasted ($250) and I didn't know this until I went to get it all and it was all packed up tight.

Poor communication, I suppose.

Rich, thanks for the support with that head gasket. Once my bearings come in from Aaron (today, tomorrow?), I will be ready to do that final cylinder clean and bolt it all together

 

[Koenigturbo]

I have assembly lube u can have

 

[87witmoreboost]

I have assembly lube u can have

Thanks man I appreciate that but I have a nice little tube of lucas mucus (as i've been calling it). It's the small bottle of the thick green assembly lube. It has a small nozzle to make a little go a long way.

Again, thanks anyway.

 

[Koenigturbo]

Thanks man I appreciate that but I have a nice little tube of lucas mucus (as i've been calling it). It's the small bottle of the thick green assembly lube. It has a small nozzle to make a little go a long way.

Again, thanks anyway.

O.K. well, I guess I'll just have to build another 7m or use as condom lube.:naughty:

 

[black89t]

i would lightly use fine steel wool and motor oil if it doesn't just wipe away. a drill and wire wheel will fuck shit up.

did the shop even hone your cylinders? and they charged you way too much to clean the block. did you make sure they didn't hot tank it?

hope it works out.

 

[suprarich]

I will first try mineral spirits and a cloth. I think that will take care of it. If not, I will go to a fine drill brush.

Mineral spirits will not remove the rust, I was just stating what I use to wash the block with after machining.

 

[87witmoreboost]

Mineral spirits will not remove the rust, I was just stating what I use to wash the block with after machining.

Ohh. Ok. I'll start with just a towel and oil. It can't be too far gone if at all since I got oil on it so quick.

As for the price of cleaning, they claimed it was a bake/blast. Yes, I did install new aux bearings and block plugs. The aux bearings suck to install.

 

[RiyadYar]

i just finished something similar on my block due to surfact rust starting to appear. i highly reccomend mopar combustion chamber cleaner u can get it from your local chrystler dealer or online , get the one in a spray can that foams up . works like a charm. then i rented a hone from autozone and got it dont the right way

 

[IJ.]

I do my final wash the day of assembly using strong dish washing liquid and then a clean lint free rag soaked with CRC5-56 to wipe the machined surfaces down, Machined Iron will begin to rust in seconds once "Clean".

 

[suprarich]

i just finished something similar on my block due to surfact rust starting to appear. i highly reccomend mopar combustion chamber cleaner u can get it from your local chrystler dealer or online , get the one in a spray can that foams up . works like a charm. then i rented a hone from autozone and got it dont the right way

I would be careful with that, Autozone does not rent any kind of hone that will place a proper finish on a cylinder wall. If it is a spring loaded cheap thing you hook to a small drill it is worthless.

 

[RiyadYar]

i inspected the hone before i used it . the stones were in good condition and gave me an overall finish im pretty happy with

 

[Rajunz]

A few more suggestions, myself I prefer laquor thinner to mineral spirits for cleaqning, but use gloves, because it will dry all of the oils out of you skin and your hands will crack.

Make sure and chase the headbolt threads before assembly, I've seem many that give false torque readings.

Not sure if you're using ARP headbolts, but Molley Lube will give different torque readings than motor oil on your threads during assembly.

Good Luck with it,
-Lance

 

[bluepearl]

Moreso, a de-glaze ball hone. And as IJ said hot soapy water and a scrub brush. This has been the standard and recommended way for years. Blow dry and get that block protected fast with your choice of lube/protectant.

 

[Keros]

I read in an old school engine rebuild manual that a pressure wash was ok to do, but you needed a buddy to spray WD40 on the unpainted surfaces the moment you finished washing that area. The WD40 will displace the moisture and cling to the metal, preventing rust.

Any truth to that?

 

[gaboonviper85]

I read in an old school engine rebuild manual that a pressure wash was ok to do, but you needed a buddy to spray WD40 on the unpainted surfaces the moment you finished washing that area. The WD40 will displace the moisture and cling to the metal, preventing rust.

Any truth to that?

Yes! Lots and lots of wd...you'll have about 10 min before the block turns dull brown!

 

[Supracentral]

I just deleted all of the hostile flamewar bullshit from this thread. I'm going to be very clear here:

Starting a flame war in the tech sections will get you banned. Tone it down folks.

Get back on topic.