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dubsupra209

dubsupra209

CENCAL SUPRAS
Mar 6, 2009
1,810
0
36
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Merced, CA
yea i would defiently take it to the machine shop get valve job new valve seals test harden the head resurface the head...get arps stock or aftermarket head gasket than you will be fine....OR you will be posting in less than 2months of how your supra BHG again and that your parting out a perfectly fine car that could of been runing good and reliable..just spend the money and do it right it shouldnt be more than $500-600 for arps headgasket and machine work and if you take it to a machine shop they could probably get it done in a day maybe two depeding how much work they got..you might as well spend another 100 and get the driftmotion gasket kit its a great kit with good quality gasket i have those gaskets on my motor
 
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mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
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Ohio
From what I can tell it stemmed from someone reading on ARP's site that friction will reduce (increasing clamping force... not that I think you need that spelled out) each time you torque a fastener, with a sort of plateau at ~5 cycles. Someone read this to be the bolt or stud "stretching/relaxing" or some nonsense. So instead of torquing and loosening 5 times, the 5 heat cycle thing started.
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
My "reasoning" for doing this as I'm pretty much the Myth starter on this one is after installing MANY ARP kits both new and used/burnished and using MHG's from the most common manufacturers I found that after 4>5 Hot to Cold cycles the middle group of studs are ALWAYS at a lower tension to the outer studs.

I don't think I'm doing anything wrong during assembly that will cause this effect but then again I don't have BHG's that aren't a result of more major engine failures/explosions and I run my engines as hard as anyone here.

I do however run new bottom end studs a few times to burnish the threads before final assembly to get a more consistant torque reading, very different to head studs though as you don't have the bimetal component or anywhere near the heat differential.
 
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mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
0
36
Ohio
I'd buy that reasoning if you were so inclined to immediately tear apart your perfectly sealed valve covers after 3 days. It's the nature of the beast for the center-ish ones to be a tad loose as they were the 1st to be tightened. However, you could probably go back again and tighten the outers, and again inners, and again outers... until you destroy the head. (Not saying as fact, just referencing other much softer materials with multiple fasteners and how they react.)
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
0
0
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I come from a land down under
I'd MUCH rather pull the covers and retorque than have a BHG the first time I make a hard pull, getting the valve covers to reseal isn't rocket science.
(well neither is getting a MHG to seal but given the amount of BHG's you'd think it was at times)

I have a bunch of procedures I stick to that have been developed over many years of playing cars, any real failures I've had with the 7M have been from accepting the conventional wisdom of forums and not sticking to what I know thinking that the 7M has unusual quirks compared to what I'm used to..
 
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mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
0
36
Ohio
Well, it took me a try or 2 to get a perfect long term seal from them... so I assume others will simply never get it. LOL

I'm not hear to stomp on any tried and true techniques you've got. :)
 
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